OMC # 312830  Link, cam follower

    Breather :  These will usually be called a silencer in the industry.  Here you will find two styles of breathers as seen in the photos below. The early motors do have a dual canister type, while the later ones have no breather box, as the mouth of these carburetors is open behind the front of the cowling.

Here the early dual breather boxes, looking from the rear	here is the later carb with not breather

Here the 64 front panel, note the low positioned slow speed knob requiring the linkage as seen on the right	Here the 64 carb, note the single low speed knob, where this carb has a fixed high speed main jet

    Oil Tube for Top Main Bearing :   All of the fuel 2 cycle motors the fuel/oil mix passes through the crankcase on it's way to the cylinders.  This oily fuel is what lubricates the internal parts.  Most of it goes right through the crankcase, carried along with the airflow to the cylinders and burned upon firing by the spark plugs.  But a bit of it "rains" out or splatters up against the inner crankcase and piston walls, then drains down settling at the lower main bearing.   For some vertical shaft 2 cycle motors, this being one, there is collection pocket around this lower bearing housing.  This oil collected in the bottom pocket is pumped to the top main bearing by the alternating suction/pressure of the action of the 2 cycle operation. 

    It is all accomplished by taking advantage of the different pressures in the crankcase.  There is no mechanical pump like what you would find in a four-stroke motor. This oil is routed thru a small oil line to the upper crank shaft main bearing to provide better lubrication to that bearing.  This tube is made of brass tubing or rubber (depending on year and model) and is located on the RH side of the block just in front of the fuel pump.  Also it is usually painted the same as the power head, which makes it even a bit harder to identify unless you know what you are looking for.   This tube needs to be free and clear for the oil to be moved upward.  And if there is a leak in the line, especially at the top, you may be sucking enough air to disrupt the idle air setting.

The oil transfer tube (the vertical tube) seen here on the starboard side of this motor

    Tearing Into the 62 : In my initial inspection on this 1962, I found no compression (when I pulled it over when looking at it) I guessed maybe he had left the spark plugs out.  He said he could not remember, but later when I got it home and checking, they were only finger tight and I guess you could say they were into the the holes.

     Well, in my getting into this project, there was evidence of a possible water pump failure, as the paint on the head was reddish paint on most of the head, (OR possibly a bad paint job, and/or weather exposure) and to compound the issue, one head bolt was twisted off.  With this one (now just a head bolt stud) is seized inside the bolt's hole in the head, the head is stubborn coming off this stud as there is not much room to twist it.  The tiller handle base is broken on one side, and the swivel shaft is totally froze up.   The lower unit vent and fill plugs are missing, so as it stands, I have no clue what I will find inside the gearbox.  And looking at the magneto, the coil's insulation is badly cracked.  Hopefully if they are still good, I can possibly reseal them with Epoxy.

    As seen in the photos below, with the one broken head bolt that was rusted inside the aluminum head bolt hole, proved a challenge to get the head off.  There was no leverage and very little means of pulling it off.  Apparently there was parts of the bolt head twisted off inside the bolt hole.  Finally, I by using a Dremel tool and cut off stone, then a 4" angle head grinder to cut through the head's outer metal and into the bolt enough to finally persuade it to come off.   This cut was not damaging to the structural integrity of the head.  Now to have the aluminum head welded to fill the gap I had to cut in it.  This is probably the only way I can go as new, or even used heads are not available.

    Once the head was off, I got a chance to look at the cylinder walls. They were not anywhere as bad as I had expected.  So maybe it was not overheated, just had sat for a long time with some salt water accumulations attaching the head's paint.  ??  This gave me a glimmer of hope in that maybe I can get her running. 

    In the LH photo below, also notice the independent fuel settling bowl on the LH side and the old style fuel pump on the RH side.   The RH photo appears to have the same paint discoloration and this motor is in GOOD shape,

Here you can see what I initially thought was the scorched head paint on the 62, & the broken bolt between the spark plugs.	Here on the 64, you can see the same discoloration on the head.  Here the fuel settling bowl has been relocated to the LH front of the powerhead, closer to the carb

    However to get into the water pump, this motor DOES NOT have a shifting rod coupler like the later models that I was familiar with, therefore the power head needs to be removed so that the bell-crank linkage UNDER the powerhead can be disconnected in order to drop the lower unit down and withdraw the one piece shifting rod.   Maybe it is time to consider modifying this older motor into it's next generation linkage system, since I do have a later 6hp to copy, and a used rod coupler.

    OK, I did cut the shifting rod as mentioned above, which then allowed me to remove the gearbox.  Now one of the water pump housing screws was seized enough to pop it's head off, but I managed to remove the pump housing and able to access the impeller.

    However getting the powerhead unbolted from the midsection proved an issue as accessing a couple of the bolts are almost impossible, and then them being badly corroded proved challenging.  Two of these bolts, I had to Dremel tool cut off the heads (or what was left of them).  However even with all the powerhead bolts now either removed or the two remaining that were cut off, THEY prohibited removal of the powerhead from the midsection.

    Thankfully, these were the rear bolts.  I finally got out my Oxygen/Acetylene torch and heated the midsection  bosses that those stuck bolt studs were now in.   The center one, is so close to the cylinder wall that I hesitate to put too much heat on it, but what the heck, I got them hot enough that I did not want to leave my fingers on it for an extended period of time.   And while warm, penetrating oil was applied.   T

   Then wait until it cooled off, and using a stubby 1/4" punch, drove the studs in enough to get it (the powerhead) then broke loose, and I then was able to get the powerhead off.  With it off, 2 of the 3 broken off bolts unscrewed from the bottom of the block with little effort, but the last one is resisting.

   The shifting rod was then disconnected at the bell crank on the shifting handle shaft, and mounted in the lathe to cut groves for a new style coupler lower down at the juncture of the midsection and lower unit like the next generation 6 hp motors were made like.

   The water pump aluminum housing was very pitted inside, enough that I could not clean all of it up by lathe turning, so I had to fill some of the pits with JB Weld and then smooth that out as best as possible.

   On the other water pump body that I tried to clean up, there was a considerable amount of deep salt corrosion, enough that I could not remove enough without cutting into the mounting holes, so JB Weld again to the rescue.

Here the TN water pump housing before machining

    Next was to look at the lower unit, that started by removing the slightly stuck prop.  Now to drop the lower unit off and then pull the gear box apart and see what was inside.  Both of the fill and vent plugs were missing, but why?   After pulling the gearbox cover off, no oil of course, but the gears and bearings looked and felt fine.   AGAIN WHY??  Things are beginning to start looking questionable on this one.

 
      Steering Column :  The steering pivot on the 1962 was bound up along with the tilt. The clamp screws were seized and missing the clamp cups.   Both of these required heat form an Oxygen/Acetylene torch and a lot of penetrating oil to break them loose. 

   The steering arm base had one ear broke off.  Miraculously the broken part was still there buried in grease.  Welding it back may be an issue because of all the salt corrosion.  Getting this bracket off the midsection was not fun, as one rubber motor mount bolt broke off, (however I just have one that will fit in my junk box).

   The top of the shifting lever was broke and missing, and in trying to get it's shaft out of the housing as it was seized so bad and apparently the inner shaft where the linkage rod connected to go to the gearbox was swelled enough that it would rotate when applying heat but would not come out.   Trying to drill the off side so I could drive it out from the inside proved fruitless.

   The electronics, the coils insulation are badly cracked, but until I check them out, I will not know.  Hopefully I can salvage them by epoxying the insulation back together to reseal them.

   And during the removal of the lower unit, somehow the lower crankshaft seal became broken (probably due to all the pounding needed to get the powerhead off).  This seal is still available but at a hefty price.  I do have the three pieces, which possibly I could lathe turn one out of bronze.

    I really did not want to get so deep into this one and order parts before I was sure that it would be feasible to get it whole again.  So the plan was to wait and see, so there are parts all over the shop.  Even then, to not spend a lot on any repairs, to salvage as much as possible, scrounge used parts from my junk box, and make as many gaskets as possible.  Hopefully in the end, this motor will be a runner, but definitely not a candidate for a total repaint/decal, restoration project.  Maybe down the road, just a repaint as metal parts are pretty bad, while the fiberglass top cowling is a whole lot better (it can't rust).  The real reason, I got it to start with was that it fit a spot (filled a niche) in my "collection".  And my goal is to have every one of my motors a running motor.  This will be one of two that I have revived from the grave.

   I am now at the point to where I have to evaluate just what I have, and whether my best bet is to just abandon this project.   Some of these parts are still available either used or new, but the cost to repair this motor would out it way over what it would be worth.   So unless I can find another midsection with a workable shifting lever, it will just be used for parts.  

   OK my search for another economical junker to use for the above what was left of that motor, which led me to what was supposed to be a mid 1960s 6 hp, an it ran for $100.  This one was just over a hours drive away.  However when I got there, the model number did not verify, as it was a 1964 (last year of production) of this 5.5hp motor.   And it fired off on first pull with starting fluid squirted into the carb (with one spark plug somewhat fouled).   Not exactly what I was looking for, as I wanted the updated shifting linkage.   But it runs, with compression of 100# on #1, and 95# on #2 on a dry motor that had sat for a couple of years, so for now, get this one tuned up and running, but I will continue looking, and if I don't find another then the 62 will be used for parts.

Here you can see the broken tiller base	Here you can see one broken motor mount stud and a good one

   OK, a couple of years later with the above motor in pieces setting in my shop, I found another older 5.5hp close to my home that the guy's wife wanted 3 old Evinrude motors gone.  He had given up on them, initially thinking he could cannibalize some parts off between the 5.5, 7 1/2, and a 14hp, but realized that this was beyond his capability, AND/OR was going to get expensive, so then he bought a newer used 8hp Merc. 

   None of these motors were even close to being runnable, two were seized, the 7 1/2 had the tiller handle missing but someone rigged a choke cable and a section of zip tied tubing for the handle.  Two old pressure gas tanks were thrown in on the deal if I took them all for $75.

   First thing to do was examine them enough to determine what to do. The 1957 5.5hp appeared to be all there, the skeg tip was missing, and the starter recoil seems sticking, along with the twist throttle dragging.  A little WD40 on the starter in the right places helped that issue and the same with the throttle gears/shaft.  Paint had evidence of sitting outside in the weather and fading out, but otherwise it had promise of my intentions.

Here the 1957 5.5hp Evinrude before it's "reconditioning"	Here you see a nice 1963 5.5hp Johnson

    My plan was to use the midsection of this 1957 5.5 for the damaged parts on the 1962.  However this 57 was all there, and in way better shape, but seized up.   First thing was to pull the head, the top piston was about half way down but not exposing the intake port, and had RUST on the cylinder walls.  I scraped the rust off with my pocket knife, sprayed penetrating oil on top of both pistons and let it set for a while.  However I can not find any viable reason for this water in the cylinder unless someone left that spark plug out (as there were two new plugs in it).

   While waiting for the magic to work, I pulled the gearbox plugs, no water and just old oil ran out so that was good. 

   Using a block of wood that just fit inside the cylinder and a 3# hammer, I ponded on the top piston, it finally moved slightly, so by alternating pounding on top /bottom pistons I got them to move considerably.   Then using the flywheel to rotate it got it to move more freely, but it stopped about 3/4 the way up on the top piston.  Ok, I lowered it and more inspection, there was a rust spot that I had missed.  More use of the pocket knife.  Then with one piston down, I used a ScothBrite pad and scoured both cylinder walls.   BINGO, I got it to now rotate freely.   Next I redid the souring by using a cylinder hone as far down as I could reach with the pistons down.  This cleaned things up, but I re-honed it again before reassembling, as it only seems to have been rusted on the top half of the top cylinder, which I can pretty well reach with that piston down.

    I tried to pull the flywheel, but need 3 longer puller bolts for this model.  Then I removed the points inspection cover, all the magneto electronics looks GOOD.  So I hooked a 1/2" electric drill motor to the flywheel nut and holding onto each spark plug, I got shocked so there was spark on the bottom plug.  Maybe the top points just need cleaning.

   Next was pulling the carburetor and going through it.  WOW it was pretty clean, like maybe the motor was ran dry before it was set aside.   I did change a couple of needle shaft gaskets that were left over from another carb kit.  

   While here, I also pulled the intake manifold to look at the reed valves, which needed a bit of cleaning.  The reed valve plate had some corrosion under the reeds, so I removed the reeds and with my vibrator sander and 220 grit sandpaper cleaned up the plate.  I Also cleaned the reeds using a Scotch-Brite pad.

    After the above repairs, my next objective was to see if it had spark.   I was right on with the ignition issue, as #1 points were badly corroded, and while there, I also cleaned the #2 points.   Coils and condensers looked new and with the flywheel back on and using my 1/2" drill motor to turn the engine over, and me holding onto spark plugs, I got shocked on both plugs. 

   Things are looking up.

   Now to look into modifying it to the newer fuel pump type using a single fuel line.  I have converted a couple larger OMCs before by just modifying the upper bypass cover, but this block did not have removable covers, but this block did not have removable covers.  OK, by using the 1962 5.5hp motor's fuel pump's location, I now know where to drill into that block's bypass area.  I made a 1/4" thick aluminum adapter plate to fit the newer small square fuel pump, then drilled a 3/16" hole in the middle of the adapter plate and using it as a drill guide, by using a fuel pump gasket as a template, I then drilled and tapped 10-24 holes on each end of the adapter to be used to mount the fuel pump onto.
 
   Then I cleaned all the paint off that block area and using the 3/16" drill bit into the center (new vacuum hole) for alignment onto the block, going only in until it went through the outer jacket.  Then proceeded to generously epoxy (JB Weld) this plate onto the block, using the drilled hole as an alignment location.  The two attachment screws were screwed into the plate to where they were even with the bottom side so that not epoxy would get into the threads. And to ensure I was aligned and no air leaks, I lightly greased the drill bit to act as a release agent so I could tamp the epoxy in AND under the adapter.
 
   I then soft soldered the the old line nipple shut on the bottom of the manifold plate.  And last was to replace the old fuel line fitting with a newer style, used one on the motor plate, and now I can use my newer gas tanks.

Here you can see the new hole drilled in the block  in preparation to it being epoxied on	Here you see the new fuel pump base with gasket in place

    The only issue here is that the two fuel pump attachment screws need to be slightly SHORTER than the adapter plate, otherwise they could push the adapter loose from the block.

    For fuel line I used clear vinyl tubing, 3/16" for the line from the fuel pump to the carburetor and 5/16" from the tank fitting to the pump inlet.  Here I did not use hose clamps, but by with a heat gun warmed the ends of this tubing  and then forced it onto the barbs.  The one thing I had to also do was to open up one of the holes in the lower pan where the incoming fuel line went through to connect to the fuel coupler.  This 5/16" line was bigger than either one of the dual hoses.

Here you can see the new fuel pump installed

   And then next will be pulling the lower unit and looking at the water pump impeller.  Here I will also plan to convert the shifting rod shaft into a two piece one if it is the same as the 1962 version, (yep) to the improved type that was standard on the next generation 6 hp. 

   After removing the 4 bolts that hold on the lower unit, it will only drop down about 5/8".   Shift it into reverse (and holding it there), and using a hack saw cut the shifting rod at the MIDDLE of the gap between the gearcase and the midsection.   NOT AS seen in the photo below however, WHICH IS TOO LOW.  This lower location is where I cut mine, but found out later that the now lower shifting rod was too short and my coupler bumped the inner housing where the rod's upper seal ring is housed.   I then had to silver solder .275" of a 1/4" stainless steel bolt onto the top end, and recut the coupler groove.  Here I did not shorten the now upper rod as it was up inside the end of the midsection opening and not really accessible without pulling the powerhead.  And the selector notches that locate the gears are in the lower section of this rod in the gearbox, being aligned/retained in position by a side tension leaf spring.  And it appeared that there was considerably excess rotational movement for the shifting handle to travel in the forward position.

    My idea was good in copying the newer design, but I did not know the unforeseen consequences.  In the end it did come out OK and now shifts fine.   FYI - the length I made the this now lower rod was 82mm from the CENTER of the neutral groove (center groove) on the rod, to the top end of the rod, then file the retainer groove for the coupler to fit.

   In the photo below, note that I now have almost 3/16" clearance between the BOTTOM of the coupler and the top of the housing which this rod goes through.   Also as you can see, there is very little front clearance between this coupler and the water pump housing.

Here you can see the coupler in it's reverse (lowest) position.  Note the minimal clearance at the rear of the water pump housing

     Use OMC shifting rod coupler #304024 to reconnect the two together on reassembly.   You can now by using a Dremel tool or a 1/4" round file, cut a partial 1/4" groove on the rear of each of these now cut off rods to a depth needed to insert the lock screw.   NOTE it is IMPORTANT to cut these rod groves exactly crosswise as there is very little sideways excess room for the upper part of the coupler to clear the water pump housing.

   Here I needed the only used coupler that I had to also convert a QD 10hp, which may see salt water.  They are still available, but a bit pricy.  These are made of brass with 1/4" Stainless steel NF screws.   Since this 5.5 will be a freshwater motor, I copied the coupler out of aluminum.  And since there is limited vertical space here for a hex or slotted bolt, (as compared to the newer motors) so I substituted Allen head cap screws as shown in the RH photo below.  This coupler has to be fitted with the rounded edge to the front, to clear the water pump housing.   

Here I am cutting the one piece shifting rod at the lower unit in the wrong location	Here the original, & my copy of the coupler

   Upon removing the lower unit, and pulling the water pump housing off, to my pleasure, I found a very good new style water pump housing and also a very serviceable impeller.  This was probably partly because of there was a slight amount of oil inside the pump housing caused by a leaking upper gearcase seal, negating any corrosion.  This seal is Sierra #18-2035, with a shaft size of .425" X .875" OD X .313 width.  Huston we have a problem.  I made a mistake in not comparing the new seal to the existing one, and drove the old one out.  OH OH, the existing one was .925" OD and I may have slightly damaged it on the removal.  Do I have an odd ball, or is the parts list wrong?  In trying to cross-reference dimensions on replacement seals proved fruitless.  OK, I will try to reuse it, AND upon visiting my local ACE hardware store's plumbing section, I found 3/32" round Teflon packing.  Now what I did was to wrap this packing inside the seal, one above the actual seal and the upper metal cover.  I filled it as much as possible and yet allow the shaft  to be forced in.  This will give me double the amount of sealing surface.

   On the 1962, I broke the crankshaft lower ceramic seal during disassembly, and a replacement only costs $35.   So while apart, I CADed out the seal off the 1957, where if needed on another motor later, I can reproduce one out of silicone bronze.   In the photo below this seal is shown on the driveshaft along with it's retainer and spring.   Here this seal also uses a 5/8" OD x 3/32" wide O-Ring that sets inside a recess on the upper side which seals the shaft to the ceramic seal.  BTY - the spring retainer cup requires a 3/32" x 3/4" roll pin, and the driveshaft is 7/16" diameter.

Here the lower crankshaft seal unit is shown, you will note the O-Ring slightly protruding/not seated in the seal	Here you see the complete seal unit with the RH being the gasket that bears against the block

     Normally the upper part of this seal (the gasket and stainless steel flat washer) stays stuck to the bottom of the block, but sometimes it falls off down and out when you pull the whole lower unit off.   Also sometimes (usually) the rest of the seal unit comes loose or may stay on the upper end of the driveshaft.   However if you have to reinstall all of the seal, the upper washer cannot be re-installed if on the upper part of the driveshaft with all the other parts as it has to go in sideways and fits into a pocket up against the block where it is aligned.   However to make it stay in place as you try to align the shaft later, you may have to smear some #2 Permatex on the upper part of this gasket so it adheres to the bottom of the block. 

    Here you will have to resort to a squared off broom handle to push this part up in place.   As mentioned above it will go into a pocket and be aligned with the crankshaft splined hole.

Here a CAD drawing of the seal & O-Ring

  The skeg was missing about 1" of metal on the bottom, it kind of looked like it had stood on damp dirt for a number of years.  OK, here the 1962 had an intact lower gearcase cover which also encompasses the skeg, so while I had the 57 gearcase apart, just exchange the 62 part when I reassembled the gearbox with a new spaghetti seal.

   The transom clamp screws (5/8" NC) responded nicely to PB Blaster penetrating oil.

    Now to hook it up to a gas tank and see if it will come alive.   Compression was 65# and 60# , but it would not pop when trying to start using starting fluid, so I soaked both cylinders with SeaFoam, which raised the numbers to  98# and 91#.  

   Bingo, but it took a bit of coaxing.  Now that it is running, it deserves maybe a newer coat of blue paint, which I found a close substitute from my local auto parts store, being Dupli-Color for Chrysler "Intense Blue Pearl".

   So my idea to cannibalize this motor actually turned into restoring it, which was in really pretty decent restorable condition mechanically for it's age, and my junker 1962 still sits in the corner all apart for who knows how long.  OH well, maybe if I keep my eye open, I will find another junker in either the 5.5 or 6hp for it.  Meanwhile the funeral is postponed.