Acquiring and Restoring Antique

Old outboards seem to multiply like rabbits, once you have one, more will come,
and they are hard to get rid of !

First We Probably Need to Describe the Above Title. Antique and Vintage are two names that could pertain to being old, or which are unique. Antique is often referred to things that are over 100 years old, or are collectable because of its age, rarity, beauty and its unique features. Vintage usually means a certain thing or object that is newer, unique and the best of its kind in a particular period. Then a third category could be simply just old outboard motors.

What Are We Looking For Here? ; First, what do you want to do with them? Wall hanger? Runner? After seeing the cost of getting the older stuff running, some people tend to go with just wall hangers. If the decal is in really good shape, then keep it in original condition. You can have a wall of those and enjoy looking at them as much as the guys who restore them.

For me at least, I want small, (meaning from 1 hp up to and including 5hp, possibly up to10 hp), that I can get running. However for many, this just depends on what turns up in your area, OR what your whims are. These could be an assortment of, Evinrude, Johnson, Muncie Gear works, Scot-Atwater, Mercury, and a mired of off brands also produced from these and other small now defunct manufacturers, that were sold through store like Sears, Wards, Firestone, or other mail order sources.

Yes, there may have been large quantities of the later Post War ones made, BUT how many have survived in ANY condition ?? It would be VERY HARD now to find any of these smallish motors in any condition other than ABUSED. These were made as fishing motors and they got used, and abused (sometimes a LOT). It seems that many owners were/are not really dedicated fishermen and the old motor was neglected pretty much all of it's life, then it sat in a corner (many times for years) being further neglected. Many times when these pop up, it will be from an estate, where grandpa quit using the motor YEARS ago and it just sat neglected, rusting away in a corner of a barn or garage.

One thing that initially the manufacturers idea to sell motors needed "more HP, or bigger is better", which may not be as right on as they expected. The same thing has been proven with boats, times change and relaxation comes in many forms, (especially as we age).

If you have found this page off Google, for information here, on old makes, go back to my Sub-Page (clickable from a link at the bottom of this page) and then to my "Restoration of Outboard Small Motors" section, where there are numerous informational histories of these old time manufacturers, along with numerous of my restoration projects.

Have a Comfortable Height Work Bench ? ; Why do I say this? Well if you are going to spend a lot of time working on one of these little jewels, you need to be kind to your back (especially as we get older). Usually normal tables are only 30" (designed for sitting at) while counter tops are 36" (designed for standing at). If you use a normal table height one, I will guarantee that before long you will have back pain.

After being stubborn for a few years and struggled by, I finally decided to make my own workbench. But this needed to be considerably stouter than normal. What kicked this one into high gear was in a trade that I had made, the guy that came to pick up his part of the trade had some scrap iron in his trailer and was going to take it to the dump. With me eyeballing some of it, he asked can you use it, if so take it. What I grabbed was (2), 1/4" X 2" angle iron end frames that were already welded, sporting considerable rust, but they would make the basis for the ends of my new workbench. They were 19" wide X 37" high and had "feet" pads so they must have been originally made for some type of heavy table. I then disassembled what was once a fold up grade school cafeteria table/bench combo. From this I got a lot of 1/8" X 1 1/2" angle iron 6' long. AND Formica covered table tops along with the same covered 8" bench seats.

From this I now have a 38" tall, 30" wide and 70" long heavy duty workbench. I had enough material to make a 8" wide top shelf and 4" wide back splashes for both the main top and the upper shelf. Even had enough top material to put in a lower shelf. And above it, I made over arms that hold a 4' florescent light that is positioned directly over the work area. Tucked up under the top shelf is also a switch for the light and a duplex 110 volt outlet for power to Demel tool or soldering gun. And in cleaning up a corner in my shop to make more room for this bench, I even found a used 4" vise (that was missing a handle) that now has found a new home on one end of the bench. I even salvaged a paper towel rack to fit up under the top shelf.

The good thing about this it was all made from scrap material other than the bolts/nuts, welding rod and paint.

Here you see my workbench and stool being used, right after it being made & before the clutter sneaked in

Very High on the List Would be, "What is This Motor Worth" ? ; Of course, this could be open for discussion. As value is just a "Perception", and will vary for different people for different reasons. And it seems that when evaluating this type of human "COLLECTORS", they are usually cheap Charlies. So, if you are a novice, do not expect to, if you have found an old non running barn find outboard motor, to be able to flip it for a huge profit just because it is old. Most people who have an interest in these Old Motors are not youngsters, and did not fall off the Pumpkin wagon yesterday. They came from an era of where if the value was there, then pay the price, BUT for a non runner of unknown condition, UNLESS it was one of 10 only made in 1912, no, they will pass on it.

YES, "It ran the last the time when it was put away", well -- maybe so, but to be on the safe side, as a prospective buyer, prove it to me. If it is broken/damaged, they will never admit that they had anything to do with it, as it was a Brother-In-Law who used it last. And do not get lulled into being complacent if the outside looks like it is in good condition, but as seen in the photos below, many times things look a lot different under the flywheel, or inside gas tank, water pump or gearbox. All this will cost you money if you intend to get it running. Are you a gambler??? Sure, you do not want to really cheat the owner, but at the same time, you really did not want an expensive yard ornament either. And if you do not do a lot of investigation or inspection, and have invested money on this project, only to find MORE is needed. OK, where do you call it quits and try to recover your losses by selling off some parts off it, and/or just use it for needed parts later?.

On the motor of the timing plate's photo below, this was a 1964, 3hp Johnson, somewhat desirable, looked decent, but a non-runner. Early in my "collecting" endeavors, I paid to much for it, $150 for it (but $200 less than he was asking), and in the end, now have another $186 in it, not counting paint and decals if I decide to finish the job. I initially figured to spend probably another $50, but unseen issues surfaced the DEEPER than I foresaw. And on this motor, there is no sense to cheap out, and to cut corners, as I also intend to use this one. Even if I did not intend to use it, my policy is to fix it right, IF CONITIONS WARRANT. What I mean here, many of these old motors have been "Ran Hard and Put Away Wet", and/or have sat in non friendly environments for eons, therefore they are only worth tearing apart for parts needed for another motor. And then that part may be worn or even broken, needing repairs itself.

Here you see two, not so good looking coils with the insulating outer coating very cracked

I am not a collector of junk, HOWEVER one man's junk is another man's TREASURE, therefore I do look for non running, possibly somewhat desirable motors (to me anyway) that I can coax them back into life. In this, I also look for junkers that I can use to cannibalize for needed repair parts on some of my other motors. And I might also say that in the past that I have performed a few CPR miracles, in bringing a few of them back to life.

I am not sure how to describe myself, but just an OLD guy who has restored a few of these little gems for over the past 70 years. However in those early days it was for me to have a small fishing motor (a 1949, 2 1/2hp Elgin that I still have) that I used during the time that I was building a house that we moved into before it was finished and "starting a family". With motor, this I could fish lakes, having a means of propulsion on an old 9' plywood pram that I hauled in the bed of my 1951 Ford 1/2 ton pickup. I still do own a 12' aluminum boat that many of my old motors have had the pleasure of pushing me around on a lake.

Again, I do not consider myself a COLLECTOR, (well maybe I should reconsider after I take another look in my barn) but more of a user of of outboards, and I do use them, therefore I may look at them somewhat differently. Maybe most importantly, I do enjoy working on them, (during cold winters in my warm shop) and seeing them transgress from 50 to 75 year old "Junk" into a running motor (and sometimes with lots of frustration and numerous cuss words involved). Remember -- that 20 minute job is only one broken bolt away from a 3 day job.

My method of determining the current resale value is If it is a Post War motor that has at least a neutral clutch, better yet a full F-N-R shift, where I would be more inclined to pay a slight premium (remember I am a fisherman and not really a collector). Also if it is a later style that uses a remote fuel tank, does the tank go with the motor, and if so, what condition is the inside of the tank? HERE a penlight flashlight is helpful. And is the fuel line and bulb included? If the bulb is not pliable and HARD with hoses also hard/non flexible I deduct $50 (a replacement cost), is the tank is missing, another $60. Some of the older female fuel line connectors to the motors are now harder to find than the motors and worth equal or more of the value of the junk motor being offered. This alone could kill the sale, as the owner sees value there, but I see a negative value, where the motor in the condition it is, may only be worth a max of $50 or possibly $100, then my costs to get it running again have to be factored in.

The above type of motor is my preference, BUT I would be remiss if I adhered to this as I do have probably more of the older non shifting / internal tank versions than the newer models.

Then again as a FISHERMAN, I HATE the newer imports, 6-15hp that do not allow you to run the motor without putting it in a tank. I am getting older, and do not like removing the motor from the boat, to put it in a tank to test run. Most of these newer motors do have a FLUSHING plug where the motor can be flushed of salt water. BUT, they do not recommend using this flushing port to run the motor from. So double check with your dealer before you buy. I have a friend who burned up his water pump impeller on a fairly new Honda this way. My reasoning is that if I am ready to go fishing, timing is of the essence, and my time is valuable. I want to run my motors the night before, so I KNOW it will run the next morning at O Dark 30. I had it (a failure to start) happen once, which ruined the whole day, (a simple fix after I got home after an hour of troubleshooting). This was with a 2 hour drive to get to the fishing area. NEVER again, as if there is something wrong, if I can fix it and still go the next morning, great, but if it needs further repairs, fine - but I did not drive for over an hour or two, only to turn around and come back home.

I am not saying that a lot of sellers are shysters, as many do not know the history, it was Dad's or Grandpa's and they are just cleaning up the estate. Many times they are totally unaware of condition or even value, and usually find something similar online that the seller is SHOOTING FOR THE MOON and they think that is the going price no matter the condition. Or they went online (eBay) found on of the same make, color and shape and decided that this was what theirs was (even though the model number was totally different) and 9 years newer).

On the other hand, I have picked up numerous of these old motors for from $10 to $50 from persons who are "just clearing out junk", be it a estate sale, ex-wife or brother who has no investment here and just wants it/them gone. On these, very seldom do they even know the make or what HP the motor is, and of course have they no knowledge as to the condition, yet while recognizing that there is some value to someone here. And very seldom do they even know it needed a separate gas tank to make it runnable (or even knew what these gas tanks or fuel lines look like).

I see a lot of internet sellers who do not list the HP, or even a make or model, and just a bad photo. Here as a prospective buyer, internet, or an in person sale, set your price and be prepared to walk away if it is not accepted (UNLESS the seller is an attractive, needy widow, then act accordingly as if she was your grandmother).

My goal is to ultimately get everyone of my motors running (after cannibalizing those needed to get others running). On a couple all that was needed was a new fuel line, or a carburetor soak, clean and reassemble. HOWEVER this is NOT the norm, as many were so bad that they needed a COMPLETE rebuild, or a complete different powerhead, or gearbox, which also could include internet searching for broken/missing parts, OR making replacement parts by hand. Therefore, I have been pretty selective what I drag home, and have even passed on a few free ones. I have set my parameters and have pretty well stuck to it.

Remember that these little gems are from 50 to 75 years old, and more likely than not have not been taken care of. They usually have been sitting in a corner of a shed for longer than the previous owner can remember. If they were ran even once every couple of years would have been better than corroding away in a cold damp corner. Many have given up of ever coming alive again, and slowly slid away just waiting for the grave as a skeleton of what they once were. Here you as a restorer are butting heads with neglect, and even some unorthodox back yard "repairs" that did not really work. I find this more than you would think. Again, here, DO NOT ASSUME ANYTHING. Go over every aspect of your repairs methodically. Question everything. Be inventive.

And be aware that one man's idea of "IT RUNS" may not be the same as another's. There is a difference between starting it with starting fluid, running for more than 10 seconds, than actually RUNNING it. One 9 1/2 hp Johnson, I took the seller's word for it. OK, it did START with not much coaxing, but needed a carb rebuild to RUN. BUT before I got there, when I started into this project, the carb idle cable was seized and about 1/2" broken off where the knob attaches, and this adjustment knob was missing, new knobs are only $30. Then the tilting pivot bolt in the mounting bracket was seized in the side brackets AND BROKEN, requiring heat and penetrating oil along with some not so gentle persuasion with a decent sized hammer, and then a new 3/8" X 8" bolt. The front control cover had partly peeled off with1/2 of it flapping in the wind. One of the mounting clamp screw levers was missing. The kill button wiring was so deteriorated that they disconnected it. The actual kill button was so rusted that it was ruined in removing it. And there was water in the gearbox, meaning some seals need replacing. Two of the 3 thermostat cover bolts are seized, and there is evidence of it being near salt water sometime during it's previous life. But when I got it together enough to start, it did pump water so the impeller is fine (I was surprised). Then I found the throttle adjustment was so far out of adjustment that it would not idle below about 2000 RPM and would not shift into forward. And the motor mounts were so weakened that the powerhead would move 1/2" sideways if I opened the throttle up even if it was not running. But it runs, so he did not really lie to me (however did not mention a lot of details). -- WOW, this one took more time to get it running right (in time and money) than some that I have gotten that were seized up and known NON-RUNNERS.

Here the internet is your friend. One 3hp Johnson that I just finished and is now a runner is now wearing parts off 6 different motors and some "New Old Stock" starter dog springs. Needless to say, I now have numerous boxes of disassembled, stripped JUNK, guess I need to label them for later identification. And I more than a few internet addresses acquired in the process of looking.

If you stay in this game long enough, you WILL find that on some, the condition will be WAY WORSE than you thought (mentioned above). VERY, VERY seldom will they start with just new gas in the tank. Win some -- Loose a lot more.

Useful tools that you should consider taking along when you go looking at a prospective purchase would be (1) a spark plug wrench, (2) starter rope, (3) penlight flashlight, (4) a spark tester, (5) a screwdriver, (6) Peter Hunn's book The Old Outboard Book.

(1) If the motor is seized, and has broken or missing parts, it is only worth packing it home at no cost, UNLESS it happens to be one that has an good existing part that I need.

(2) If it is NOT SEIZED and non running, and a few broken/missing minor parts, I MAY possibly pay $35 to $50 (however I recently did $75 on one) depending on a make/model that I know from experience, and that it could be repairable considering parts are likely to be very limited, EXSPENSIVE, OR not available for that motor. Here I try to totally shy away from old Mercurys, because of that.

(3) If it is running (and can be proven), and the paint is shabby, possibly $100+, however for good paint, add another $50. Here, just because it is running does not mean that all parts are totally operational.

(4) If it is restored and running, value could be $250 to $450. However you may see some on eBay listed the $2,500, (which never seem to sell, wonder why?) Here, my meaning of restored category includes reconditioned or new parts, all areas checked out (compression, electronics, starter, water pump, gearbox etc.). Here, a fisherman would be more likely to pay this price (for a mid 1960s to late 1980s motor as they will have F-N-R shifting) as he knows the cost of a new motor (usually over $2,000). Here he is knowledgeable enough to understand an older running motor may be just as, or more reliable, than an expensive imported new one, as no American manufacturer currently makes a motor of these sizes anymore.

(5) If completely restored to AS NEW condition then it is maybe worth $550 up, (TO SOMEONE, not me however), depending on make, model and rarity. But do not expect your front door being broken down by hoards of prospective buyers.

(6) In all practicality, in this day and age, I would never expect to find a PRISTNE ORIGINAL, but if I did, Who knows what price would be appropriate? I recently did see a running 1954 Johnson 5.5hp for sale for $550, that was original, with the original tank and in probably about 98% condition.

I had one guy offer me a NEW, still with the tags 1986 8hp Johnson. His grandfather had purchased two new identical motors (he was skeptical and wanted a spare for a backup). This guy recognized that maybe there was a collector out there, instead of using it himself. However it's newer age pretty well cut out many "Collectors", so I suggested that he keep it himself as it would run just as good (or better) than any import that he could buy, and at a heck of a lot more price for them now. So, there may be a few out there, but rare.

Any of these that could fit the higher sales class range, there also really needs to have a simple, but attractive metal stand, as many in this category could wind up as a display in a lawyers office, restaurant, or some business office waiting room as an attraction, instead of, or along with a large painting hanging on the wall.

(7) Do not expect that by leaving your "collection" as an inheritance to your kids that you will be doing them a favor. My suggestion if you have ANY type of collection, and your years are adding up, or your health is declining, it may be a good idea to discuss the situation with your kids, DOCUMENT the values, with all pertinent information and a honest suggested resale price range available to them. And a possible sales outlet for them.

(8) Another reminder to self -- once you get a runner, place a hang tag on it saying so, with the date, and on the other non-runners as well, what is wrong, if known. Also identify required fuel ratio on each motor AND on the external tanks if applicable. Write down the compression, all the repairs you have done, and any pertinent data that would be useful in selling it. Otherwise it is just another old scrap junker motor. If they are to be stored for extended periods of time, run the carb dry AND DRAIN THE FUEL TANK. These tags may also help you remember, OR help your heirs later on.

Why Do I Collect These Motors ? ; Again, I do not consider myself a collector, nor really a hoarder, but more possibly a old time fisherman/marine mechanic, or more like a person who appreciates these old motors and how they were developed and were built with the equipment available at that time. As a retired machinist, looking at these, I can visualize the progression of design (some of which worked, and others that didn't), and it did not take long to eliminate the weak designs. This knowledge gives me an inside edge as to what old motors to pass by on.

The appeal of small old motors, to many, is greater because of numerous things, they are small, easy to carry, and store in limited places, but to us old geezers, they brings back memories. So do old cars, but these little motors take up a lot less space, and less expensive. And to the younger generation, the few that they do turn on, these may have the need to relive Grandpa's tales of the past.

I just counted my "collection" which includes ones from 1.1hp to 7 1/2hp and totals over 60, of which maybe 1/3rd are runners, (all that I have personally repaired) with a few more sitting close by on that waiting list. My acquisition of many was by being a gift. One inherited, 5 gifted by a friend who's father-in-law passed away with a garage full and he needed them gone. 5 more gifted because they knew I tinkered on these things, 2 more gifted by friends/relatives, another gifted by a neighbor after he decided it was beyond his ability to finish getting it running (after he got way too deep in his repairs), and 8 or 10 that I had purchased at yard/estate sales. A few were trades. A few were also bribes that if I took the two that I was interested in, then I also HAD TO TAKE the other one for free. I was lucky at the recent AOMCI club outing by winning 5 of the 12 that were put up for the $1 a ticket raffle. If you lost track in counting, well so did I. Of the non running ones that require lots of TLC, that I have bought the price has been from $10 to $40, some were gifted by AOMCI members just to get rid of them, maybe I look like a sucker ??

One I bought to fulfill that particular category of motors and the $40 that I paid was $60 too much. And then what started it all, the first one that I traded for in 1961 or 1962 as a non runner,(a 1949 2 1/2hp Elgin) got it running and used it as a fishing motor in my early lake fishing. Another I purchased was from a man who was dying of cancer, he had an old motor that was too much for him to pull to start (it turned out later to be a 1979 JC Penny 7 1/2hp made by Eska and not high on my desirability list). It's outer lower parts were badly salt corroded and the upper plastic cowling damaged (someone had cut a hole in the plastic cover so the starter handle could be easily pulled through, if the cowl was removed to test the motor). He offered it to me as he knew I had other small motors, and in my mind he probably thought he was doing me a favor. When I asked what he wanted for it, the response was "what ever you think it is worth". Did I really want it, not only NO, but HELL NO, but I gave him $50, with the idea that I MAY be able to clean it up a bit, repaint the lower parts and make it presentable. Then use it as a loaner if anyone wanted to "Borrow a Motor" from me. And we got it out of his basement, just 3 weeks before he passed away.

After I got to look at the above motor, maybe I and others are missing the boat here. As times change, those of us old geezers who value the (old style, well known older brands) as we are leaving for that perpetual fishing pond far away, and the younger generation who have a different perspective than we do. Again perception enters into the picture, where the new generation (if they fished with their father) may have been propelled by a different motor (like a cheaper air cooled Clinton or Eska possibly sold by Sears). These motors run, many times quite well because of being simple. They just don't fit our old geezers idea of an OLD MOTOR. And with the thousands made, they now could easily be added to the their own "collectors" list. In the past I have acquired a few that came along with purchases of boats. I in turn passed them along as incentives when I sold a boat. Times have changed, maybe in hindsight, I should have kept them.

Here, as mentioned above, "Perception" is probably the most important item as to value. OK, you get it running, but it still has rust on the outer gas tank, there is not much original paint left, the fuel tank is badly dented, the starter rope is frayed and does not retract all the way at times, the gearbox leaks grease, etc. Under conditions like this, you will have a hard time selling it at any price. Yes it runs, BUT. OK, I understand that you want to preserve it's integrity, BUT ??? Here, if your intention is to sell it, you need to put yourself in the prospective buyers shoes, as some appreciate quality, over price (or a combination of the two). And then there are those enterprising persons who seem to be bound to repaint one they just got running, BUT they have a whole different concept of what an OLD motor looked like, not a hot pink or with flowers painted on it. Maybe OK for yard art, but, who wants to pay a high price even for a gold plated Sow's ear?

My recent emergence into getting into rebuilding most of mine was, before the passing of 2 wives within a 3 year period (both of which in their last years/months, where I became a 24 hour caregiver). I needed something to occupy my time, and yet I needed to be close enough if they needed help, and that I was available within a minute by a cell phone call. And then moreso, after they were accepted into Hospice, AND even MORESO after their passing. This "TINKERING" filled that bill quite well for me, otherwise I would have needed a therapist of my own, a caregiver, AND a Chaplain.

In thinking back, for all the used outboard motors that I have bought for my personal use, I can only remember one (and it was fairly new) that I have not had to work on before I could use it. However maybe I am more particular than some. But I do not like the idea of paddling back to the launch, therefore I try to ensure it will run when I want it to. Yes, I have been lied (or information withheld) to by the seller on more than one occasion as to the condition of the motor. I have gotten where after asking a few questions, I can pretty well read the person and evaluate their response. I have gotten where at times I question a lot of what may be told a the time of the sale, and adjust my offer accordingly. But if the above had not happened, you would probably not be reading these articles now.

My main repairs are done during the winter/rainy spring months, (near my shop wood stove). When initially completed, I am not confined to a time (due to the weather) so my initial running is dry (not in a tank), and minimal just to say they have the ABILITY to run. Then later I actually run them in a test barrel to get the carb adjusted right. And then preferably later on a lake during the summer which blends in with time for my fishing. Again, I do seek out Estate / Garage sales during the summer.

Again, Old outboards seem to multiply like rabbits, once you make the mistake of getting the second one, more will come, and they are hard to get rid of.

Do Not Think That You Are Going to Make Money Here ; First off before you can really consider buying one, you need to identify the motor you are looking, at or have just purchased. The book "The Old Outboard Book" by Peter Hunn is invaluable here.

For anyone to attempt any of these restorations, you need to have a COMPLETE understanding of 2 stroke outboard motor design/construction, AND also to be very mechanically inclined. CLICK HERE for a link to my troubleshooting article). If you do not fit this category, then maybe you had better learn to play golf, or if your passion is these old motors, then it may be best to limit yourself into purchasing running, or restored old outboards. Or collect old lawn mowers, as where if they die it won't be on a lake where you need to paddle back. Or just dream.

I have seen more outboard motors damaged by DIY (Do It Yourself) would be mechanics. Service manuals for many of these old motors, if they were ever available, are scarcer than hen's teeth. However some motors (if there was enough made by a prominate manufacture) some thoughtful person may have reproduced exploded views pages. Purchase one if you find any, so you have some idea of what you have.

In repairing these, the internet is your friend, however if you do not get the desired results, change your search wording as many sellers have no clue what motor they have, (can't read the decal on the side or the ID plate). In my mind, a 35 to 50 year old motor is not old, (but I am now 86 and do remember them when they were new) however trying to find obsolete parts could be the deciding factor whether you try to restore it or scrap it out, especially where 1984 6hp OMC model, where a starter REWIND SPRING is selling for $189 and the complete motor is only worth not much more than that even if it is in good shape AND running. Or again for OMC, a 6 and 10hp from the early1960s to the 70s were rubber motor mounts cost $86 and $106. One thing to remember, SIMPLE IS USUALLY BETTER and on these older motors if you are able to fabricate broken or missing parts, you have a better chance of succeeding.

For some motors, you MAY be able to find a few used parts available, either on e-Bay or other online sources, however are they in good enough condition to be usable? But if your part is broken or missing, anything is better than nothing. And has the seller advertised it correctly, by this I mean does it actually fit the model he says it will?

Then in all probability, you may also break a part or two in your disassembly, especially if there are some bolts seized. Some may be repairable, others no possible way. Here, patience will be your best friend, along with good penetrating oil. This is why you need to acquire more than one or two non runners of the same model, so that you can cannibalize/merge parts off two into one complete motor. And you never know about those broken/seized bolts until you get pretty deep in your disassembly/restoration project.

OK, you found your little gem, but it had a few missing or broken parts. Remember that what you find to cannibalize are as old as the one you are trying to fix. And here, probably 95% of the time, the person selling that part does not know a heck of a lot about it (possibly one of those DIYers who screwed it up) and was computer savvy enough to then and broke it down to sell for parts, So do not put a lot of faith in their add. Rely on photos, (but know what you are looking for) some photos of which are questionable (fuzzy on purpose) however, it may be best to ask questions before you place an order. Do not expect to go online and find those parts that you need in 1/2 hour. It may take you a year or more of frequent looking before you happen to find (during that window of time) the part/parts that you need, as e-Bay is not one large warehouse, filled to the brim with everything ALL THE TIME.

One instance that I stumbled on was as mentioned here, being an e-Bay add for a complete lower unit for a 1946 Johnson TD (including the prop and water pump) for $49.95. His good photos did not match the model description of the part. This lower unit was really off the later TN model, (as indicated the the different water pump and clutch cable in his photos) which just happened to be the one that I needed (I thought). As my motor was missing this exact lower unit, and I had resigned myself to having to find another junker motor to cannibalize. A blind squirrel may find an acorn once in a while.

Thirty years or so ago when I started really tinkering on my own motors, the price of replacement factory parts was reasonable, now a fuel line coupler that was worth $10, is now listed at $120. It seems that when the factory inventory is high, the price is reasonable, but they become obsolete, and the quantity has decreased the price goes UP dramatically, and then when they can see the bottom of the bin, it doubles.

Some of these motors are so rare (unusual) that even finding a internet listing for them is impossible. And if you think searching old outboard mechanic's junk piles may be a source, well, you are probably 40+ years too late. And if you found one that met your requirements, he being in that business knows what it is worth TO YOU, so do not expect a bargain because it is old, froze up and rusty. OR he wants to keep it himself and get it running during the slower winter months. However here is a source for many old motor parts that the prices are reasonable https://thebrazilianconnection.com/outboardindex.html or from www.oldoutboard.com .

One of my non runner (seized) old motors is a 1946 Flambeau 5hp Model 546-1 that is mostly complete EXCEPT it is missing a bypass cover. What are my chances of finding one of these?? My only hope would be to find a collector who has one and could share with me some very good photos and possibly a few dimensions so that I could make a reproduction part. OR, probably best to offer it for sale/trade so someone can resurrect their motor.

For any motor to run, there are three main items that will need to be operational. (1) Being ignition parts. However there are a few companies who specialize in these old parts, for specific motors. Or you may be able to modify existing parts to fit/function. (2) Fuel is needed, starting with a fuel tank, (either integral or external depending on the age), the fuel supply line and the integrity of all of them. Then a functioning carburetor would be the main ingredient here also. (3) Water pump parts would also be very high on the "needed list", as about all of these are water cooled. Without a operational water pump, you have just a display item. And it is about impossible to have access to all the current replacement impeller dimensions as a cross reference. If you can overcome the above 2 items, you are on your way to getting it to run.

Then once you get all the repairs done and it comes show time, what happens when it does not start or stay running and you have checked/double checked all the essentials but still no success? You pull the carb off numerous times, checked the fuel lines, the spark, and even retightened the propeller nut just in case. You still have a female with PMS motor. Time to back off and sleep on it. But the hard part is you have 3 of these little jewels all doing the same thing. ???

There are two different things in getting it running, as compared to restoring it to running condition. (1) Getting it running may just involve new gas, clean the spark plugs and replace the starter rope. (2) More often than not, (with these having sat unused for from 10 to 40 years) this will also include a complete carburetor rebuild, remove rust from inside the fuel tank, replace the points and condensers, and maybe even a coil, replace the water pump, replace the prop shaft seals, find a replacement clamp screw, etc. From this you can see there is a MAJOR difference.

Then IF you decide to RESTORE it, add NUMEROUS hours of a complete tear down, clean and bead-blast the whole motor, prep and prime paint, final repaint to original colors and then a new set of decals at a cost of from $30 to $60. Here, you need to decide which motor is valuable enough to justify repainting and a new set of decals.

And when you do get it running, it is anyone's guess what the internal condition of the piston/rings/water pump impeller really are (unless you yourself have been inside the block and water pump). And with the rich fuel/oil mixture these motors require, it may be to your best interest to DECARB your newly running gem.

Even if you are a machinist or welder enough, and have the resources to be able to repair/make a few of your own parts, what is your time and expertise worth? In any restoration, quality means everything, as 1/4" paint does not cut it here. Then when you get it running, to make it salable, (if that is your plan) are you able to restore all the metal back to ORIGINAL. AND then find replacement decals (not the cheap generic ones). And just using a rattle can of spray paint, may make it look better to you, but you can very easily devalue your whole project, as it may have been worth more as was, than wearing a botched fancy paint job. It is not an easy chore to do it right, and could be almost impossible to find some decals for some makes/models.

Sierra is a company who makes/sells many aftermarket boat motor parts, but on these OLDER motors don't bet your life savings on them having your needed part.

Replacement ball/roller main bearings and shaft seals are one thing that could possibly be found by cross referencing numbers OR using dimensions to find a replacement.

There is one company that can supply obsolete piston rings, but you need the dimensions, as they build what size you need, linked HERE.

AND on some old motors, even finding good photos of original motors to identify the proper colors can be a challenge. Then finding paint that matches can be an issue if the motor is really old. Specially mixed rattle spray cans can get expensive, especially if you are only painting one motor. Or then matching paint can always be somewhat duplicated (IF YOU HAVE A GOOD SAMPLE), but still not cheap for one or two motors.

Also you will more than likely need a few special tools, a flywheel puller for one. (1) A very useful tool being an impact screwdriver (hammer operated) will be the only thing that you may be able to get badly seized screws loose. (2) Another will be a small diameter cylinder hone, the one I found was for a Volkswagen engine. (3) And one very practical item is a screw holding starter screwdriver. (4) Another would be a small magnet (usually on the end of a small screwdriver) that can be used to position those somewhat unaccessible carb mounting nuts as you try to get the nuts started on the threaded studs. You will also need bulk gasket material in a couple of thicknesses and a set of hole punches. Another would be a HeliCoil or other brand repair kit for replacing stripped threads.

Then it may be a good idea to purchase a couple of the 6" x 8" plastic fishing tackle boxes and fill it with small screws, washers, pins and clips. Your local ACE hardware is your friend, screws in sizes 6X32, 8X32, 10X32, 10X24 in lengths of 3/8", 1/2" and 1" is a good start. And a few 1/4" NF nuts to hold on the carburetors, as sometimes they go wondering during the night. A few E-clips and small hairpin clips can also be helpful. Fiber and Nylon and possibly a few lock washers could round out your assortment. And a handy Dremel tool with a cut off stone can shorten any of the screws to fit if needed.

And if you need to do some electrical troubleshooting, a good multi-meter would be invaluable in tracing out continuity of wires, or testing ignition coils. Ideally if you could find a old engine tester to be able to test the condensers would be ideal.

Then last but not least. it may be a good idea to invest in reprint owners/parts/service manuals IF YOU CAN FIND THEM. Here there is a major difference in owners manuals than service manuals for information you may need. owners manuals give you the basic information on identifying the controls and fuel ratios, where the service manuals usually are a complete manual showing detailed factory recommended repair procedures. Parts manuals are just that with no instructions. However on these old motors, anything is better than nothing.

Professionally made flywheel puller in position on a 1938 Evinrude Elto Pal

Shown below are a few photos of motors in VERY BAD condition, where only the most crazy, Shade -Tree mechanic would even consider trying to restore one of these UNLESS you are one of those that needs a challenge occasionally (Been There-Done That) more often than I like to admit. Some people never learn, OR are BIT VERY HARD by the bug.

Here, what is under the flywheel of a 1938 Evinrude Elto Pal, 1.1 hp after a major flood 15 years previously	1947 Elgin 2 1/2 hp with the head finally off, notice the milled off studs still frozen in the cylinder housing & the corrosion in the water jacket on this

1969 4 hp Johnson with the head was pulled, pretty much indicative of salt corrosion over a long time. However it was saved	1952 5 hp TN28 Johnson. Here is another example of just a parts motor

Here, so much RUST that nothing was salvageable other than the prop on a 15 hp OMC of about vintage of 1962

The information below was copied of the Antique Outboard Motor Club Inc. website

This is the number one question we are asked. Here’s the short answer: Probably less than you thought (although there are exceptions).

Now the long answer. We’re not trying to be cruel here, just honest. Grandpa’s old fishin’ partner might bring you warm fuzzy memories, but the guy who’s thinking of buying it from you might have leads on several motors just like yours from which to choose. Old outboards were “too useful to just throw away” and small enough that they got stashed in all kinds of places. Thus, folks keep finding them and putting them on the market. The ready supply keeps prices reasonable.

When someone presses an old outboard into regular use, sooner or later something’s going to need fixing. These days, most repair shops won’t even look at anything over 20 years old. They probably already have a few old motors stashed in the back, motors that were left by their owners when it turned out that it would take hundreds of dollars in parts and then more in labor to get them running again. Sometimes these abandoned motors hit the market, too. People who understand this difficulty in getting old motors fixed shy away from purchasing such relics for regular use, especially if prices try to be on par with merchandise that’s more recent.

So, then, who’s buying the old outboards? Among others, collectors. Collectors will restore old motors, often to running condition, even fashioning some replacement parts by hand. They’ll touch up the paint and apply new decals to restore them to showroom condition. It’s a process that no sane person would undertake just to have a motor that runs, when modern motors are readily available for that use. It’s a labor of love. The painstaking work can take months, which would be quite expensive in today’s world of “time is money.” Nobody is getting rich restoring old motors.

So again the question, what’s it worth? We now direct you to the price guide in Peter Hunn’s The Old Outboard Book. When you look through the guide, you might be pleasantly surprised at how certain models (maybe like yours) have held their value. Some rare models go for seemingly next to nothing because nobody’s interested in them. Some more plentiful models nevertheless get the better prices because they generate more interest. These are in fact the prices at which folks are able to regularly obtain these motors, as the price guide was assembled by experts.

When people hope to get more than these prices, they may hold on to their hope for a very long time indeed. Few individuals can say that they really need any particular motor at any particular time. It’s not at all uncommon for good merchandise to sell at prices well below those in the price guide. The guide will nevertheless give you piece of mind that you haven’t been ripped off.

It may cross your mind that “at that price, I might as well keep it.” This is quite reasonable, but consider the following: if it’s just sitting in storage, it’s not doing anyone any good. Better it be where it can be appreciated. If you just want a motor for regular use, you may be better off with something newer and more easily serviceable. A cost/benefit analysis would point this out right away.

If you decide to undertake the refurbishing yourself, that’s great! There’s a club for folks that like to do just that, you’ve found it, and you won’t be sorry you joined! If, on the other hand, it’s not your cup of tea, you won’t be sorry if you pass the motor along to a collector. The collector will give that old motor a good home and put some cash in your pocket for the privilege. That motor will run forever under a collector’s care, you can bet on it. Whether or not you are that collector yourself, a return to glory is the best tribute you can give that motor.

So, other than the Guide, what’s the best way to find out the worth of your old outboard? If you’re holding on to the motor, join the Antique Outboard Motor Club and get to know other folks who have your same outboard. Members of AOMCI have a pretty good idea of what sells for how much, and they can point you in the direction of an expert in whatever motors spark your interest. If you’re selling the motor, then just put it up for sale and the market will tell you its worth. Free classified ads can be placed via this website.

How do I get more information about my old outboard?

If you’re looking for what year the motor was made, by what company, and maybe some more history about the motor, the most current single published source for this information is Peter Hunn’s The Old Outboard Book.

Another good source of information is in the owners, parts, and repair manuals. Such publications are available from sources on the internet which are linked to the AOMCI homepage. We will return to the subject of manuals later in this FAQ.

You can also go to Ask A Member on this website, which is open to non-members, but if you’re truly intrigued by that old kicker, why keep your interest to yourself? Join the Antique Outboard Motor Club and get to know other folks who have your same outboard. Members of AOMCI can point you in the direction of experts who can tell you more about your motor, and you’ll probably have something to tell them about it yourself.

It depends on which motor, and which part. In the case of Mercury and Johnson/Evinrude, many designs or parts originated in the 1950s were carried through into the 1970s, 1980s, and even the 1990s! Original replacement parts for these designs are often in ready supply through your local dealer. That’s where your search should always start, regardless of your motor’s make and model. They might know somebody who knows somebody…

Do you have a West Bend or an Elgin? You may not know that most Elgin motors were made by West Bend. The tooling for West Bend’s outboard line was sold to Chrysler. Chrysler’s marine division ended up in the hands of the original makers of Force Outboards, U.S. Marine, which was subsequently bought by Brunswick Corp., parent company of Mercury Marine. Thus the modern day Force by Mercury Marine has its roots in West Bend and Chrysler technology. It shouldn’t be too surprising to find out that many West Bend, Elgin, and Chrysler parts can be obtained at some Mercury dealers. Later in the 1960s, Chrysler also supplied motors for Montgomery Wards, Western Auto/Wizard, and Eaton’s.

Many old outboard brands were produced by OMC’s onetime 3rd division, Gale. Gale built motors for Montgomery Wards, BF Goodrich, Goodyear, Eaton’s – the list goes on. These motors bore both cosmetic and mechanical resemblance to their Johnson/Evinrude contemporaries. If it resembles an old Johnson/Evinrude, it’s probably a Gale, and your local OMC dealer might have some parts for it.

Aftermarket replacement parts by manufacturers such as Sierra are also available from marine supply houses. These parts generally include but are not limited to “consumables” like water pump impellers, breaker points, and carburetor overhaul kits. The Sierra outboard parts line is also carried by NAPA auto parts stores.

In searching for parts, it can help a great deal if you have a parts manual for your motor, from which you can obtain the official manufacturer’s part number. It’s a tall order to expect a parts retailer to reliably convert a description like “that thing that connects the underside of the flywheel to the throttle on a 1947 Evinrude” into a number that they can look up in their inventory or on the dealer parts network. When you place your order for parts, you should give as much of the following as possible:

The dealer can check their records to see if your information is self-consistent before you spend your money. Even within a given model year, the same part may have two or more part numbers, depending on the motor’s serial number. For example, if you were to order a flywheel key for a “1959 Mercury 15”, you’d stand a 50% chance of getting the wrong part, unless you provided the essential information listed above.

Beyond that, you’re kind of on your own. Or are you? If you’re serious about fixing and enjoying your old outboard, you should seriously consider joining the Antique Outboard Motor Club. Members of AOMCI routinely help each other find parts, and some members acquire and sell parts as a hobby.

However, AOMCI has never been, nor does it try to be a parts supermarket for the rest of the world. AOMCI is a not-for-profit club dedicated to the restoration and preservation of old outboard motors. The club provides the connection that helps folks stay in touch with each other, and it schedules events at which they can convene to buy, sell, and swap merchandise. Join the club, make a few friends, exchange some information, and good things will come your way.

How do I repair my old outboard?

If you want to do the job right, nothing can substitute for the factory service manual. By your having the manual, questions can be answered before you even think to ask them. But of course, the manual doesn’t always tell the whole story. Service manuals are often geared to a level above the average do-it-yourself mechanic, and familiarity with outboards in general will help in interpreting details of the manual.

Major outboard models are covered in repair manuals from Ken Cook Co., Clymers, Seloc, Intertec, and others, generally available from your local outboard dealer or online. The dealer can also sell you or tell you where to get a genuine repair manual from the manufacturer. Such a manual might be slightly more expensive, but it will generally be more complete than the “one size fits all” aftermarket manual, since it is geared towards the dealer’s service department and not the do-it-yourselfer. Mercury sells one manual that covers all its motors 1965 and older, and other manuals for newer models. OMC has outsourced printing of all publications covering motors 1979 and older to Ken Cook Co.

Since the repair manuals are often general in nature, we also recommend that you get a parts manual for your exact model, so that you can know for sure if you’ve got everything there. The AOMCI web pages contain links to online sources for Mercury and OMC manuals, with others being added as they become available.

As we said before, the manual doesn’t always tell you everything. Some of the tricks of the trade are not written in any official repair manual. Join the Antique Outboard Motor Club, and you will see that some of these tricks are documented in AOMCI’s magazine The Antique Outboarder and in the Club forums accessed via this website.

Other tricks are strictly word of mouth till someone takes the time to write them down. Chances are good that several folks have performed the same repair you’re investigating, and they’ll have some words of wisdom to impart. But the key here is that you have to ask around, not just post your question to a faceless bulletin board, but interact with the people who have done it before. When you join AOMCI, that’s just what you’ll be able to do.

With just a few parts and a little time and patience, your old "kicker" can be the hit of the lake or river!

Chances are good that you've seen some old-timer tooling down the road with a flat bottom boat tied into the back of his pickup. Inside the boat, or maybe in the truck bed itself, wedged between the cab and the wheel well, rides a battered old outboard motor.+

If those old motors could talk, imagine the stories they could tell! Stories of long-ago fishing trips, duck hunts, trotline and trap line runs, shore lunches and bankside camping trips. Their stories are etched deep into the chipped, faded paint of their cowlings and shaft housings, but even the ugliest ones exude a classic grace that tweaks our imaginations ... and our memories.

Surprisingly, many cosmetically abused motors still run well. With a little loving care and a modest investment of time and money, they can often be restored to showroom condition. The mere sight of such a motor always draws a crowd, just like popping the hood on a classic Corvette or a Shelby Mustang.

For a growing number of collectors, restoring antique outboard motors is a passion that borders on obsession. They certainly don't do it for the money because most old outboard motors, fully restored, don't bring near the dollars and effort it took to get it there.

At times a small cash investment and some hard work, and you could wind up with a real work of mechanical art.. But don't bring a profit after you factor in the price of parts, tools and time. Most do it for the sheer satisfaction of restoring a piece of Americana.

Many also do it for sheer practicality. If you want to buy a brand new brand-name S-horsepower outboard, you're looking at paying anywhere from $1,500 to $2,500. For that, you get a non-descript motor with generic styling, drab, unassuming paint jobs and some kind of ho-hum name that somebody in marketing made up as an afterthought.

Or, you can put $25-$200 into a classic 5-hp with a name like Evinrude Zephyr, Johnson Sea Horse or Chris-Craft Challenger. Or how about powering up to an old Mercury Rocket, Mercury Thunderbolt, or Johnson Meteor?

Along with the cool names, you also get sleek, imaginative styling that practically swaggers with the "American Cool" of the 1940s, '50s and '60s. Then, with a little extra effort, you can restore their dazzling factory paint jobs and their aggressive, eye-catching decals.

Performance? Well, 5 horses aren't any more powerful now than they were in 1950, and they're not worth a dime more, either. For those reasons and more, restoring classic outboards is simply irresistible to boating enthusiasts, anglers, tinkerers and collectors.

Generally speaking, collectors are most attracted to small outboards, 3 to 5-horsepower models. Those motors are light enough to carry with one hand. They have simple designs and are simply constructed. Because so many of them were built over the decades, parts are readily available for most popular models. Also, small outboards can be used for a variety of applications such as powering layout boats for waterfowl hunting, inflatable fishing boats, two-man bass boats, canoes, johnboats and small fishing boats on lakes where large motors are inappropriate.

Finding antique outboards is easy. The classified section of your local newspaper is a good place to start. There, you can find motors of all descriptions selling for anywhere from $20 to $300. Don't put too much stock in prices because you can sometimes get a dandy motor for less than $100. Estate auctions and garage sales are also great places to find antique outboards.

When you go to look at a motor, sometimes you'll find that the seller has two or three old motors in various states of repair. Sometimes all it takes is a new set of plugs to get them purring, or perhaps a carburetor overhaul. Others are hopeless pieces of junk, but they might have parts you need for another motor. A friend of mine who restores old outboards has obtained several motors for next to nothing from people who just wanted to get them out of their sheds and garages.

Sometimes classic outboards are attached to boats, and you have to buy the boat to get the motor. For example, my next-door neighbor had a 1962 Richline aluminum fishing boat that he never used sitting in his backyard under a tarp. Finally, I asked him if he'd be willing to sell it. The price was $450.

"Hmmm," I said, thinking that was entirely too high. "Can I look under the tarp?"

"Sure," he said. He unhooked the bungee cords that secured the tarp and rolled it back. Inside was a nice MotorGuide trolling motor and — lo and behold — a 1972 Evinrude Lightwin 4-hp outboard in near-mint condition. "How much for these motors?" I asked.

"Oh, that all comes with it — trailer too," he replied. "I ain't got any use for that stuff. I haven't started that motor in 15 years, so I don't even know if it runs."

"Why? Did you run it without oil or something?" "No, I just haven't used it. The kids aren't interested in fishing anymore, and I don't have the time." I plunked down the cash, and when I got the motor home, I clamped it to a barrel full of water, installed a new pair of spark plugs and yanked the cord five times. It coughed and sputtered to life, and with a few adjustments to the low and high-speed idle knobs, it ran like a dream.

I scored another good deal from a retiring co-worker who wanted to sell a 1965 6-hp Evinrude Fisherman. We took it to a local marine repair shop where the manager let us use his test tank.

"Now, this motor hasn't been started in 13 years, so I don't make any guarantees," he said. I looked at my watch and thought, There goes lunch hour. To my delight, the motor started and ran flawlessly on the first pull. It didn't so much as hiccup as I ran it to full throttle and back down to idle. A mist of warm water flowed through the exhaust ports. Then, I shifted it into gear, and the flimsy aluminum handle snapped off in my hand. The manager of the repair shop said that was common for old motors that were often carried on their sides in the trunks of cars and beds of pickups. The jarring, bouncing and vibration of such transportation weakens the metal until it breaks.

Meanwhile, my friend was horrified, but not because I'd broken his motor. He was embarrassed, so he reduced the price by $75. I even got the original owner's manual! I'll replace the shifter eventually, but until then, it shifts just fine with a pair of vice grips clamped onto the handle stub. It's perfect for trolling, for motoring around the small lakes that I like to fish, and for getting me, my dog, and my decoys to my favorite duck hunting spots.

Like car enthusiasts, outboard collectors and restorers are fiercely loyal to specific brands. Some will own nothing but a Mercury. Others won't look at anything but a Johnson or Evinrude. For a time, even Sears and Montgomery Ward had their own motors. Chrysler also made outboards. The fact is, any brand-name outboard (to say nothing of many off-brand names) is likely to be an excellent motor, and you can't go wrong with any of them. Other than slight variations in design, they're all built essentially the same. The good thing about antiques is that the bad stuff went to the junkyard a long time ago. The good stuff is still in service.

If you're partial to Evinrude products, some names to look for when you're scanning the want ads are Lightwin, Ducktwin and Yachtwin. These are 3-hp and 4-hp motors. The Angler and Fisherman models are 5 hp, 5.5 hp and 6 hp. The Sportwin is a 9.5 hp motor, the Fastwin a 10-hp.

Johnson was also a prolific maker of small outboards, offering a vast array of models ranging down to 1.1 hp and 2.5 hp. Most of the really small motors were made in the 1930s and '40s. From the 1950s, '60s and '70s, you'll most likely find 3, 5 and 6 hp, and larger.

Many collectors really love the 3hp Johnson Sea Horse. It came with an integrated fuel tank built into the top of the cowling and a slide-knob throttle on the front of the cowling. Sea Horses are beautiful motors, and they're surprisingly powerful.

Also, collectors tend to favor motors from the 1950s and before, because their cowlings were made of metal. From the 1960s on, cowlings are plastic and are less desirable.

Johnson, Evinrude and Mercury dominated the market after 1960, but if you want to go back to the '50s and before, you can find names like Corsair, Oliver, Scott-Atwater, Wizard, Gale, Buccaneer and Waterwitch.

Mercury buffs might look for: the Super-5 (5 hp, 1949-55); the Comet/Silent Six (6 hp, 1955-59); the Trol-Twin Rocket (10 hp, 1958-59); the Mere 100 (10 hp, 1960); the Mere 60 (6 hp, 1961-68); the Mere 110 (9.8 hp, 1961-68); the Mere 39 (3.9 hp, 1964-68); the Mere 40 (4 hp, 1969); and the Mere 75 (7.5 hp; 1969).

So you've finally talked your neighbor into selling the old outboard that sat for years in a dark corner of his garage. The paint is faded and scratched, the decals are barely legible, and the whole outfit is covered with decades of grease and grime.

Before you waste time in cleaning it, make sure the motor is in good working order. Start by checking the compression. Compression on small motors should be somewhere in the neighborhood of 70 psi. You can buy a good compression tester that screws into the sparkplug holes at any auto parts store. With the tester installed, pull the cord until you get a reading. If compression is adequate and equal in both cylinders, you're already halfway home.

Next, check the ignition system. Old motors have amazingly simple ignition systems that run on points, coils and condensers. To see if yours "sparks," pull the wire off one plug and ground it to the block. When you pull the cord, you should see a spark. You can also get a spark plug testing tool from any auto parts store. Hopefully, your ignition system will be fine. If not, you may only have to replace the plugs. Otherwise, you may have to replace all or part of the system.

Usually, you should rebuild the carburetor as a matter of course, especially if it hasn't been used in a long time. That's because carburetors get clogged and gunked up with old fuel and coated with varnish. If you have to make your own gaskets, you can do so easily with cork available at your local auto parts store or hardware store. Remove the floats, dry them out and then reseal them with fuel-proof sealer. Remember to keep the carburetor parts in order. Take notes, if necessary, so you will remember how to put it back together. Your first carburetor rebuild will take about 90 minutes. After you get the hang of it, you can complete one in about an hour.

Next, change and inspect the oil in your lower unit. If it's contaminated, change the seals.

Once you've got your motor running perfectly, it's time to make it young again. Start by stripping it down to bare metal, including nuts and bolts. There's no easy way to do this except with sandpaper and elbow grease. Remove dents, if possible, and coat the metal with a good, zinc-based primer, which adheres well to aluminum body parts.

Before repainting, you'll need to know the color scheme of your particular outboard. You can determine the proper scheme for your motor through old catalogs or brochures. Another good resource is the Antique and Classic Outboard Motor Paint Web site, www.pathcom.com/~nymarine/ . This site lists the color schemes for Johnson, Evinrude, Mercury and Scott-Atwater outboards. Through this site, you can also purchase the exact shades of paint that are true to factory specifications, such as Reef Coral (ScottAtwater, 1957-61), Matador Red (Mercury, 1958), or Platinum Mist (Evinrude, 1959-60). If you want to restore vintage outboard gas tanks, this site also sells factory-spec paint for those, too.

Next, you'll want to get a fresh set of decals for the year, brand and model of your particular motor. These are available through American Motors Outboard and Salvage, 12611 Ocean Gateway, Cordova, MD 21625-2751; (410) 822-1740 (www.americanoutboard.com).

Now you face a dilemma: After all the time and effort you spent cleaning the motor, sanding the finish, rebuilding the carburetor, tracking down paint and decals and then applying them, do you really want to put your resurrected work of art back in the water?

Many restorers don't. Instead, they put them aside, trade them or sell them. On the other hand, part of the joy of restoring these motors is showing them off, and nothing impresses onlookers more than a working classic outboard.

Also, keep in mind that antique outboards are actually worth more in original condition than they are reconditioned. That's why I'm happy to leave my old Evinrudes as I found them. Besides, I still use them — sometimes in harsh conditions — and I don't want to worry about scratching paint or decals.

Merely owning an old outboard puts you in a very friendly international fraternity. Fortunately, fellow restorers, collectors and enthusiasts can exchange tips and information through online message boards and swap meets. One excellent resource is the Antique Outboard Motor Collector's Club. Through the club's Web site (www.aomci.org), members can seek and obtain advice from each other about anything and everything concerning just about every motor ever produced. It's also a good place to find parts, even for brands that haven't been built for 50 years or more.

Swap meets are great places not only to meet fellow outboard enthusiasts, but also to trade, sell and buy motors and parts. You can learn about swap meets in your area through the AOMCI.

Whether you want an old kicker to use or to restore, there's no denying the charm of a classic outboard. They remind us of an era when fishing and boating were done at a much slower pace, when style and utility were intertwined as one.