Weatherby Regency Illustrated Pa

Weatherby Regency
Parts List

These illustrations were scanned off from Weatherby factory catalogs, and ARE factory ID and part numbers. This is important as about all obsolete parts suppliers use ONLY factory or closely associated numbers where ever possible so everyone is on the same page.

We thank Weatherby for supplying the above scanned picture

Weatherby Regency O/U Shotgun

The parts listed below are for your identification purposes only.
The author of this website DOES NOT have any parts.

Illustration # 35, Cocking Rod cam O/S 12 ga. #3403.91
Illustration # 35, Cocking Rod cam N/S 12 ga. #3403.92
Illustration # 25, Firing Pin 12ga. #3459

WEATHERBY REGENCY - These guns were made by Angelo Zoli of Italy & sold to Weatherby. Not to be confused by his brother Antonio Zoli. Angelo has been out of business for MANY years & Antonio's guns, (sold under the Zoli name) were NOT the same. So NO spare parts are available, as the "factory" made these pretty much on order and had very few spare parts left even when the gun was discontinued.

These guns however, in reality were not all made by the same manufacturer. As it was a "Cottage Industry", in that MANY small independent gunsmiths participated in this venture. Some shops may have made the barrels, others the receivers, still others the wood &/or engraving. And who knows the assembly, with probably no one person or shop doing the complete gun.

GUNSMITHING THESE GUNS - It is not known whether these numbers shown on the above illustrated parts breakout are ID numbers OR part numbers.

The common thought is that firing pins are bad if miss-firing occurs. This is not the case many times. The mainsprings will take a set after time. Also if reloads are being used & the primers happen to be upset when being seated, the primers are slightly desensitized & with the weak mainsprings this can lead to a miss-fire problem.

Mainspring plunger end (MS pilot) has changed from the factory parts drawing. The parts drawing shows a non captivated unit. All that I have seen are the threaded together captivated unit. These units are made for RH & a LH in that they need to be installed on the pivot pin so that the upper part of the hammer has clearance when cocked.

If miss-firing is encountered, first look at the mainspring rebound to see if someone has had it apart & inadvertently threaded the plunger unit together enough to shorten it. You can lengthen this unit (unthread it) so that the force of the mainspring is still applying at the point where the hammer is bottomed out. If this does not solve the problem, then you can make a spacer to go behind the front threaded end to increase the mainspring tension. This is a fine line as you will have to experiment with the thickness of this spacer to where the hammer will still cock with the spacer installed.

The hammers are basically a rebounding type stopped by the cocking rods. If the above spacer still does not solve the problem, you can make firing pins about .025 longer on the rear. You are essentially making them longer & somewhat converting the gun to non-rebounding hammers. But these can't be too long in that they have to start to retract enough when the gun is opened, so that they do not interfere with the opening of the gun by dragging the firing pin tip out of & across the fired primer.

The above situations are because, I have not found any replacement mainspring that is strong enough.

The cocking rod cams are driven into a dovetail in the rear of the forearm iron. There appear to be 2 different sizes as to width. Information is not available from the factory as to serial numbers when this change took place. On one gun using the old style cocking cam has a #1 stamped on top rear of the cam. #3403.91 COCKING ROD CAM - (Old Style .287 wide) appears to be the earlier version. The new style is a beefed up version in thickness and width. #3403.92 COCKING ROD CAM - (New Style .376/.383 wide). These dimensions are taken on the widest part of the dovetailed end. The cams have a small round hole going almost all the way thru in the middle of the dovetailed section. This is a removal indent. You use a pin punch that will just fit the hole & drive the broken cam rearward out of the dovetail. In fitting new cams, you may need to file the sides to fit a SNUG fit. At this time do not file much off the rear as this governs the overall length that pushes against the pushes against the cocking rods. They should be long enough so they cock the gun but do not leave the opened gun hanging on this cam, as it needs to "Bottom Out". Some replacement cams may need to be fitted as to OAL & rear thickness for clearance to eliminate the chance of bumping the lower front of the receiver. If it needs to be shortened, then file off the front radiused end instead of taking metal off the rear which is heat-treated.

There are a few unique designs in this model. One is that the hinge pivot trunions are replaceable. The reason is that they could not mill into a corner of the barrel's mono-block. They hollow end milled this section from the outside, then made a ring that went over the now, center peg, this ring was held in place by a small set screw.

The matching receiver recess for this pivot ring was bored clear thru the receiver sidewalls. There is then a plug inserted into partial depth of this hole & again using a small set screw to hold it in place.

It appears these guns were only made with 2 3/4" chambers. FA latch spring is simple flat stamped spring slid into slot.

The guns seem to be very well made & the only known problems appear to be the cocking rod cams & the weakening mainsprings.

This page under construction & the parts listing may be added later

Originated 05-17-04 Last updated 11-08-2020
Contact the author