Savage 99 Exploded Views

The illustration shown below was scanned off a Savage factory parts list, using factory reference numbers, which are converted to factory part numbers. This is important as about all obsolete parts suppliers use ONLY factory or closely associated numbers where ever possible so everyone is on the same page.

Note, for some of the older firearms, many over 100 years old, the factories never used what we now know as assembly drawings, but just views of many of the component parts and possibly randomly placed or in a close approximation as seen below

The illustration shown above is from a original factory parts list dated about 1955 & show factory part numbers

99-1	Barrel less Sights	99-417	Lever Bushing
99-2	Receiver	99-419	Lever Bushing Screw
99-5	Butt Plate	99-420	Escutcheon (Fore-end)
99R-5	Butt Plate (model R)	99-421	Fore-end Screw, Short (model EG)
99-11	Barrel Stud	99R-421	Fore-end Screw, Long (model R & F)
99F-11	Barrel Stud (model F only)	99-422	Pistol Grip Cap
99-25	Breech Bolt	99-423	Pistol Grip Cap Screw
99-710	Breech Bolt Assembly	99-424	Hammer Bushing
99-30	Carrier Spring	99-425	Hammer Bushing Screw
99-32	Butt Plate Screw (2 required)	99-426	Hammer Indicator
99-59	Extractor (Specify Caliber)	99-427	Hammer Indicator Pin
99-65	Extractor Pin	99-428	Hammer Indicator Spring
99-75	Slot Blank	99-429	Hammer Indicator spring
99-77	Firing Pin	99-431	Lever Lock Pin
99-107	Hammer	99-433	Lever Lock Tension Spring
99-701	Hammer Assembly	99-434	Carrier (Specify Caliber)
99-166	Mainspring	99-705	Carrier Assembly (Specify Caliber)
99-218	Front Sight	99-435	Carrier Spindle (Specify Caliber)
99-229	Rear Sight	99H-435	Carrier Spindle (Specify Caliber)
99-233	Rear Sight Step	99-436	Carrier Spindle Head
775-252	Stock Bolt	99-437	Carrier Spindle Head Screw
94-253	Stock Bolt washer	99-438	Carrier Spindle Nut
99-279	Trigger	99-441	Sear Screw (Specify Caliber)
99-284	Trigger Spring	99H-441	Sear Screw (Specify Caliber)
99-285	Trigger Pin	99-442	Sear Screw Nut
99--289	Dummy Screw, Tang (2 required)	99-444	Breech Bolt Stop / Trigger Spring Screw
99R-289	Dummy Screw, Telescope (4 required)	99H-576	Carrier Spindle Support (Specify Caliber)
99-396	Firing Pin Securing Pin	99-703	Fore-end (model EG)
99-410	Automatic Cut-Off (old style) Specify Caliber	99F-703	Fore-end Semi-Beavertail (model F only)
99H-410	Automatic Cut-Off (new style) Specify Caliber	99R-703	Fore-end Semi-Beavertail (model R only)
99-411	Automatic Cut-Off Spring (old style)	99-704	Safety Lever Lock
515-278	Automatic Cut-Off Spring (new style)	99-707	Sear
99-412	Breech Bolt Stop (specify caliber)	99-708	Stock with Butt Plate (model EG)
99H-412	Breech Bolt Stop (specify caliber)	99F-708	Stock with Butt Plate (model F)
99-414	Cartridge Guide (specify caliber)	99R-708	Stock with Butt Plate (model R)
99H-414	Cartridge Guide (specify caliber)	?	SRC, Saddle Ring
99-415	Cartridge Guide Pin (2 required)	?	SRC, Saddle Ring Staple
99-416	Lever	.	.

This is not a gunsmithing article, but I found something on a internet message board that is a fairly common issue, and here is the what it says.

The rotor (carrier spindle) spring may need cleaning or adjustment. If you have problems with the magazine not accepting enough rounds (or not feeding all of the rounds) you might have a rotor that is wound too tight (or not enough).

"If you look just above the cartridge counter window, you'll see a small screw. If you remove the forend and look at the end of the receiver you'll see a ring that is slotted. You'll need a flat bladed screwdriver with a slot cut through it so it fits well into the slots on the ring. Now being careful. loosen that screw above the window. It only has about 6 or 8 threads on it, and then it's a straight shank beyond that. DO NOT FULLY REMOVE THIS SCREW YET!!! While you are loosening that screw, you want to have the slotted screwdriver in place holding the rotor from turning.

On the rotor, there are a series of slots around the outside diameter for that screw above the window to engage in, locking it in place. If you rotate the rotor ever so slightly you can feel the slot on that screw. Holding the rotor in place, gently remove the screw. Once that screw is fully removed you should feel resistance on the slotted screwdriver. This is where you have to be careful. 2 people really help, although I have done it alone. Rotate the rotor only slightly (clockwise if too tight and counter-clockwise if too loose)and place the screw you removed back into the hole you took it out of. You'll feel it contact the rotor.

Carefully rotate the rotor until the screw engages the next slot in the rotor. Replace the screw once it's in a slot and thread it in. You want to go no more than one slots adjustment and I think you should be OK.