Remington 740/742/7400 Semi-Aut

Model 740 & 740A : There seems to be lots of missing information as to the relationship of the 740 and the 740A Remington. This article will not be a collectors directory, but geared more toward a gunsmith's perspective. Below, I will try to describe this as I see it as there seems to be little, if any in print covering this subject.

At the inception, the Remington model 740 semi-auto was named the Woodsmaster, and came with a 22" barrel with a detachable 4 shot box magazine, being introduced in 1955, three years AFTER it's companion, the 760 pump.

This model 740 was probably only initially produced in 30-06. Initially the buttstock wood was plain uncheckered walnut, with no grip cap and sported a cast aluminum buttplate. As seen in the photo below, the stock has a lot of drop in it, making for it rather low for a good fit if using a scope. Original forearms had finger grooves running horizontally most of the length, weakening it. It was not supplied with factory sling swivels. Rear sights were dovetailed into the barrel for the Remington’s unique rear sight (shown below), while the small front ramp was silver-soldered to the barrel and dovetailed for the front sight.

Initially the early production, (740) had a receiver mounted pivoting bar type ejector, which is odd that they did not follow the improved bolt head extractor/plunger type ejector used on the already in production 760 in 1952, but read on as I will try to cover that later.

These guns utilized a new, 9 lug multi locking system, with the bolt lugs being located so the top set of lugs rode in a shallow groove in the inner top part of the receiver. The other side sets of lugs straddled the magazine so feeding from the magazine was unhampered.

In the photos below you can see the definite visible differences as compared to the later type related to the pivot mounted ejector mentioned in this article. The material in the side of the receiver where this ejector was mounted WAS NOT thick enough to allow the whole pivot hole in the ejector, with the actual hole in the ejector being a partial hole more like a C with these small lips being the retainer part on the pivot pin. This location then became a weak spot and ejector breakage, or material pulling loose at the pivot pin lips of the C allowing the ejector to fall out. And heat treating of this long pivoting ejector was critical.

It seems that the factory may have wanted the semi-auto to come out first, or at least at or near the same time as the 760 pump. But partial production got ahead of engineering, so they apparently put the 740 project on the back burner, and focused then on getting the 760 pump out first.

Then when engineering got many of the bugs out for the semi-auto, they apparently picked up and finished what 740 guns or receivers were already started, using up completed parts.

Also an educated guess is that part of this problem could have been the gas system, along with that they were probably trying to use the snap in extractor from the then current model 721 (remember the riveted in one was not invented yet, until it came out in the 760). But with this receiver mounted pivoted ejector, it was nearly impossible to make it fit and function reliably in/around the small multi lug locking lugs. So enter the riveted extractor from the 760 and BINGO they could make things a go. Once those manufactured pivoted ejector receivers were all used up, they then probably changed over to using the then proven 760 bolt/riveted ejector system and renamed it to model 740A as was common in the industry then. Therefore it is very possible that you will see a 740 milled receiver, but with the later 740A bolt in it as it is unlikely for 740 parts to run out at the exact same time.

In the 740 operation, the bolt lip mounted extractor pulls the fired case out of the chamber, holds it there and as the bolt retracts rearward enough to cam the pivoted ejector inward into a slot in the back side of the bolt body and face, forcing the ejector farther inward into the bolt face farther as it goes back and stops. This then allows the ejector to come in contact with the LH rear side of the fired case, pushing it out from the extractor's grasp and out the ejection port.

Operation of all the later bolt face plunger ejectors (760 and 740A) was similar, except the spring loaded bolt head ejector always has pressure on the fired case and as this case is pulled rearward enough to clear the ejection port of the receiver, the force of this ejector overrides the extractor, forcing (pivoting) the case out the ejection port.

As theorized above, the 740 was probably made only during the first year, with the improved 740A coming into the product line as soon as the old inventory was cleared out. This also makes sense by looking at the model numbers, where the 740 would seemingly have been the earliest into the product line / production, followed by the 760, as was earlier production of the models 721 (1948) / 722 (1950) followed this pattern. I have a 740 with serial number 46,965, barrel code PB which was makes it June 1955. I have no basis for this theorization other than looking at it from a engineering / manufacturing / production perspective. You will not see this in print anywhere else, but is about all that makes sense as far as manufacturing.

You will not see any mention of the 740A in any factory advertising, or stamping on the gun (kind of like the bastard child, it was there, but they did not recognize it) and to the general public, no one knows EXCEPT the poor unknowing gunsmith that comes on something unexplainable MANY years later (like the plain old 740s). The 740A is listed in the early parts manuals however.

In the photos below, you can see in the LH photo, the pivoted bar type ejector protruding through the slot in the back side of the bolt head. This is at the rearmost travel of the bolt assembly which is about 3/8" farther rearward than in the RH photo (which is held locked back by the magazine follower). With this bolt at the same location as the RH photo, the ejector does not protrude, which guarantees no cartridge infeeding interference from the magazine. In the RH photo, with pressure on the rear of cartridge of the spring loaded ejector plunger, as soon as the fired case clears the receiver opening, it is thrown clear, up and outward. You will also notice in the RH photo, the angled front of the ejection port cover. This is also designed to give that case clearance on ejection.

Then since the old style pivoting ejector soon became obsolete, if a gun was sent back to the factory for this (or any type of repairs), the repair was to install the new plunger style ejector bolt head assembly. Therefore you may see a 740 receiver with no pivoted ejector but the new bolt head assembly. When I mention "740 receiver" here, I am referring to the visible small drilled hole in the outer LH top of the receiver where the old style ejector pivoted as shown in a photo above. The factory must have also kept a few original 740 barrel assembles, as we have a complete functioning 740 (and so marked) but a barrel dated coded PR which relates to June of 1969. This barrel is a true 740 in that it has the proper rear sight dovetail and Silver soldered on front ramp. It is a true 740 replacement as there are no prior date codes also stamped on it, meaning it was manufactured earlier and returned.

I have never seen a 740 in any caliber other than 30-06, but have with the 740A primarily being in 30-06 with a few 308s which would possibly came in late1956. You will find that the 308 did not enter the Remington scene until 1956 when they chambered the 722 for it, so the possibly is great that they also added it to the 740A at the same time. According to the Blue Book of Gun values it does not mention the date of the 308 entered production, just all the calibers available but does say the 244 and 280 coming available from 1957 until this model died in late 1959 (being replaced by the 742).

Now consider the 308 WINCHESTER was designed by Winchester, where Remington had an affliction to not chamber for Winchester's calibers unless it really hurt their checking account. That is also the reason Remington came out with the 244, to compete with Winchester's 243. The same for the Remington 280 / Winchester 270. Later it has been said of Remington "NIH" (Not Invented Here) for many other calibers, or industry standards like screw in chokes for shotguns, where Remington was the last factory to add this to their line AND when doing so used their own design, not compatible with all the others. Again I am trying to visualize the whole picture here and from being in the industry shortly after that time (I got my FFL in Feb. 1959).

I can not remember, or can find in a my reference that the 740s were drilled and tapped for a scope, but I suspect they may have been as one Remington Forum states about 1954 was the start for D&T in the 760 and 740, which ran parallel to each other, with both using the same initial receiver, with slight modifications as when I bought my model 760 in October of 1954 (date code Nov. 1953) it was not drilled or tapped for either scope, or peep sight. Any D&T that would have been done, would being tapped for the Weaver #62 scope base and possibly for a peep.

Also there was a 740ADL which was similar to the 740A but had a machine checkered stock, pistol grip cap and sling swivels. The 740BDL was similar to the ADL but had select wood.

You will notice on the above photo that since the scope is mounted so low (to give clearance for the objective bell of the scope), that the original dovetailed rear sight has been replaced with a Lyman folding rear sight, which is common.

One problem with this model 740 firearm was that the forearm attachment screw was a single pitch thread, pulling the forearm tight against the front of the receiver. When firing rapidly the 2nd and 3rd shots seemed to always climb on targets, hence making the gun shoot higher with each successive shot. Williams Gunsight Co. made a aluminum spacer called an Accuracy Block, that went over the forearm screw and between the metal forearm liner and the gas nozzle block, tightening at the front and therefore making the forearm float at the rear. This was made in a short and a long version to accommodate individual guns. In essences, all it did was go over the forearm screw inside the forearm, and when this screw was tightened, it held the forearm secure AND slightly away from the front of the receiver.

In the original literature that came with these Williams Accuracy Blocks , it states that the long version is for rifles above serial number #159,058.

In the CAD illustration in the left photo below is a drawing of the Long version. Sorry, I don't have a short one to copy, (if anyone does, please send me those dimensions). However I have seen a few filed off the rear square portion. The best guess is if your gun is below the 159,058 serial number range, and all you can find is the long one, and if there is way more gap at the rear of the forearm and front of the receiver when installed and the forearm screw is tight, then file the block off apportionately. I like to see the forearm free floated at the rear by maybe .025"/.030".

These forearms are rather thin wood that is glued onto a sheet-metal liner as reinforcement. No factory replacement parts are now available, and very few aftermarket (other than extractors and wood) are available.

The 740 and 740A bolt cover was made of blued sheet metal on these models and was not as prone to rattle as the 760 was, because of the bolt handle in the slot providing some stabilizing resistance.

This magazine was designed so that on the last shot being fired, the action remained open. In reality the only reason for this was so you could have the action open for cleaning, as in normal shooting, after the last shot, you now have to push the follower release button on the magazine allowing the bolt to go forward before you push the magazine release button to remove the empty magazine. This can be a hassle for some, so many hunters simply use the 760 magazine which is the same without the hold open feature.

Sights : Sights have changed many times over the years. If yours is one of the early guns (740) with a 3/8" dovetail, any aftermarket 3/8" sight, both front and rear will fit.

OK, now may be the time for a short gunsmithing 101 on dovetailed sights (both front and rear). The barrel or front ramp dovetail will be slightly tapered and the sight has to be driven in from the RH side, slightly tightening as it gets all the way in. TO REMOVE IT, drive it out from the LH side, using a 1/4" or 3/8" brass or Nylon drift, even a old toothbrush handle works (this type a drift will not mar the base as much as a steel drift).

The model 740 utilized a silver soldered on small front sight ramp onto the barrel. The 742 front sights use a screwed on ramp type base using 2 screws, one hid under the front sight, here a special sight pusher tool should be used that pushes the sight by cranking a threaded handle in. This reduces the chance of knocking/stripping the base screws out.

Don't ask me to ID which sight would have been used on what year a gun, as I am not a Remington historian, just a lowly country gunsmith. However I will try to show photos of most of the different versions. In the LH photo below, you see the original (generation 1) 740 and 760 dovetailed rear sight. The RH photo shows the first 742 rear sights. These were screwed onto the barrel using 2 screws, the rear blade and flat spring base was held in place by a cross screw in be front part of the base. The fragile rear blade had a windage adjustment screw and used a blade type notched elevator.

In the photos below, both of these sight assemblies are again screwed to the barrel (using the same hole spacing as it's predecessor). The base has a male dovetail on the inclined top ramp.

For the LH photo, the upper blade base was secured by a cross screw pinching onto the dovetail. The windage blade was adjusted by the blade having 2 small Vee horizontal grooves, mating into Vee ridges of the blade base and was secured by a center screw buried in the front of the blade. This screw was notorious for loosening and the blade disappearing.

If your barrel has the sights screwed onto it like the 700 or 742s, and you loose part of the rear sight, you might be best to try to get a whole new one for the 7400 or even the 700 series, as the screw holes are all the same spacing. The rear screw on sight has been changed 3 times and parts for the early versions are no longer available from the factory. All screw on front sight bases have the same hole spacing, so any later Remington front sight unit will fit, however the height of the blade may be different if off a different model.

For those of you that have to know what year your Remington firearm was made CLICK HERE to go to the barrel date code.

Model 742 : In December of 1959, the Model 742 was introduced replacing the Model 740A. They were made from January of 1960 to 1980. The Model 742 was introduced in grades of A, ADL, D and F. The A grade had plain uncheckered wood, the ADL came with checkered stock, pistol grip cap and swivels, The D or Peerless grade had machine scroll receiver engraving, where the F (Premier grade) had extensive game scene receiver engraving and the best wood stocks. The BDL made from 1966 to 1980 had a Monte-Carlo stock that was basket weaved checkering with black grip cap and forend cap.

Caliber's were .257 Roberts, .270 Win, 300 Savage and the BDL versions. January of 1962 brought the new version of the Model 742C and CDL (carbine, 18 1/2" barrel) in .280 Rem, 30-06 and the .308 Win. In January of 1963, the 6MM Rem was added. January of 1964 brought about the discontinuation of the .280 Rem in the CDL grades.

The 150th Anniversary edition, in limited quantities, came about in January of 1966 in BDL grade. This version had a longer flat on the top rear of the receiver with a small flare at the rear, right and left hand stocks in caliber's of .30-06 and .308 Win. This version also had a cheekpiece on the buttstock and basket-weave design for the checkering to differentiate it from the ADL.

January of 1968 brought in the .243 Win and ADL calibers with a change to the checkering on the ADL and C grades, thus eliminating the A and CDL grades. January of 1976 brought about the Bicentennial Edition in limited quantities. The 7MM Express Rem. cartridge was the new designation for the .280 Rem in January of 1980.

Do not be of the thought that on the shorter calibers (243, 257, 300 Savage or 308) that this version is a SHORT ACTION. The firearm is the same as it's longer cased brothers, just the magazine is what was altered. By this, meaning that the magazine's sides cartridge guide indents AND/OR spacers were added to position the cartridge in the magazine to feed properly through this firearm that was designed for a longer cartridge (30-06).

Here I suspect the A suffix designation change to mean standard, instead of improved as in the 740A, while the B being deluxe, and there were also D and F suffixes, which designated higher grades yet. And to confuse things, they also added the DL suffix.

In the photo below, this apparently is of the ADL version as I have seen a early gun s/n 82,52X that sported wood from the last 740A, plain no checkering and the vertical ribbed "Corncob" style forearm. From the physical appearance of the whole gun, it seemed original.

Sights were improved, replacing the dovetailed barrel version with Remington's own screw on rear sight with a sliding dovetail ramp for elevation plus a cross dovetail for windage was implemented. The front ramps were also screwed on.

The buttstocks were made with the comb a bit higher to be more aligned for the use of a scope. The early 742 wood was not checkered and forearm was the vertical ribbed (corncob style). The buttplate was made of plastic, and had as seen below, white line plastic spacers at buttplate, pistol grip and forend cap, but no factory sling swivels.

The 742 incorporated a different forearm attachment screw which had a dual pitch thread to overcome the inaccuracy issues with the 740.

When installed correctly, the 2nd pitch threads pulled the forearm slightly away from the front of the receiver, (where one thread screwed into the forend cap and the other at a different pitch into the gas block) creating basically a free floating forearm, making for more accurate shots after the barrel warmed up. When installing these forearms, the screw needs to be partly screwed into the forearm, then pushed rearward until tight against the front of the receiver, and then continued tightening, securing it while moving it forward for free floating. This gap between the rear of the forearm and the front of the receiver should be about about .025". If more or less, remove it and either pre-tighten the screw in a bit more or less and try it again until you have about the right clearance, but a good startign point is 4 threads inot the forearm before sliding the forearm on and screwed into the barrel lug.

The 742 also has an improved bolt system incorporating a internal bolt latch system (where the 740 had none), which is a small thin lock that holds the bolt head from rotating out of battery while it is traveling rearward and forward during cycling. However you can not just replace a 740 bolt head with a newer 742 head because when they added the bolt retainer latch in the 742, they had to make another machining cut to the upper inside of the receiver.

In Feb. 1977, date code (LO), on the 742 AND the 760s, the barrel threads were changed from RH to LH, to help stop the problem of the barrel extension (locking lugs) from unscrewing from the barrel during the firing cycle. This date code is shown below in the gunsmithing section.

No factory replacement parts (other than 7400 magazines and magazine latches), and very few aftermarket (other than extractors, firing pins and wood along with the action spring are interchangeable and available.

The bolt cover was changed from metal to a plastic material on these models which pretty much eliminated the rattle.

Magazines : These steel stamped magazines were a work of art to the sheet metal stamping field at the time they came into existence. They were designed to hold 4 rounds.

Remington did not own the tooling to make the magazines, but a stamping company made the tooling for the consideration of them making them for Remington. These were stamped out and DEEP DRAWN from a single sheet of steel. Over time, the tooling wore out and the tooling company had changed ownership, the new owners were not interested in either rebuilding this old tooling OR making new tooling. I know this, as I tried to purchase the 788 magazine tooling from this company also, but they drug their feet because at that time they were still making the 742/760 magazines for Remington and felt an obligation to Remington. Then when the decision came to scrap the 742/760 tooling, buy the time I found out about it, it had went to the scrap buyer.

The outcome was Remington went to a existing company who was making pistol magazines, who designed cheaper tooling making it differently, with the metal box, but plastic bottom.

Even if you purchased factory spare magazines, sometimes they needed fitting, so they would go in/out easily or locked in place. This could mean usually peening down or filing down the rear latch. Usually the shallow front protrusion was OK.

Magazines for both the 740 and 760 series were all made on the same tooling, so should interchange. The only difference was the 742 utilized a lock open on the last round follower system. They also had a release button on the bottom to override this feature. However it took so much effort that most hunters did not use it, but simply remove the magazine from the gun. It was really a hindrance if you shot the last round and wanted to replace the empty magazine with a loaded one, as you had to first remove the empty one (while under pressure of the recoil spring pushing the bolt unit forward. Not as fast as you would think. The only real need for this feature was when you were cleaning the firearm. With that in mind, many hunters would simply use the 760 as their primary magazine, eliminating all the hassle.

There was at one time aftermarket large capacity magazines available for these guns, some functioned, some didn't. I have been asked numerous times by people looking for them, my comment as a hunting rifle, if you can't hit an animal with 5 rounds, by then the animal would be out of sight or running so fast you could not hit them anyway.

Gunsmithing These Models : Any gunsmithing information listed below will be directed at all versions of this gun unless specified differently, as the 740, 740A, 742 could be categorized as the same gun, just different generations (just improvements).

HOWEVER, you will notice the transgression of different models here. There is a reason. This firearm was the first design for a high power semi auto and when the bugs showed up enough to make an improvement, the newer model was brought out. What I am trying to say is that do not expect a 740 to last as long under what some people would consider normal now. This gun was designed as a hunting firearm where it would not be unheard of if it fired only 10 rounds a year. In today's world where reloading is pretty common, where possibly 500 to 1,000 rounds would not be unusual. The 740 and 742 receiver rails will wear, that is why the 7400 became born. My advice would be shoot them until they fail, and then make it a wall hanger.

As a matter of fact, they (the factory) don't even have the part numbers in their parts computer system anymore, or if they do and it also fitting a different model, the part number has NO reference to fitting these 740/742 models. These firearms are now obsolete and if you contact Remington, they will say they don't have any parts.

If your rifle's operating handle seems hard to pull back, or the gun fails to chamber around or even close on a empty chamber, one of the first things to look at is scope mount screws. Are they too long and part of the threads are protruding down into the top lug rails of the receiver binding the bolt carrier from full movement. This is not that uncommon if the scope and mount may have recently been replaced.

If your gun does not fire when you pull the trigger, but may on a second pull, you very likely have could have a gunked up trigger housing assembly. By the nature of this gun, with the magazine well being open and the operating port somewhat open, debris can accumulate in the bottom and in the trigger housing. If there is any oil also accumulate there, over time all this can harden into something that may restrict movement. This could be the safety itself or even the hammer plunger. Thus plunger is spring loaded, if it gets gummed up may well become sluggish, resulting in a delayed firing.

To remove the trigger assembly (Fire Control is the actual factory nomenclature), be sure the gun is unloaded, use a long 1/8" punch, tap out both the 2 cross pins holding this unit in the receiver. These pins are retained by small wired "C" clips once installed. This unit should then come right out the bottom. Now you can manually cock the hammer, with the safety off, try to simulate your problem. You could find something restricting either the trigger from being pulled (safety) or movement of the sear to disengage the hammer.

Here you see the "Fire Control" assembly removed from the receiver

If the problem is in the safety, there is a small cross pin in the metal housing above the safety, This pin only holds the spring and either a ball bearing or plunger (depending on vintage). Drive this pin out, carefully remove the spring and plunger. Now the safety itself can be removed. REMEMBER WHICH WAY IT CAME OUT, it will go in wrong but not function. Clean, oil with a light oil (NOT WD-40) blow all the excess off the internal parts, then reinstall.

Trigger pull is usually a little on the upper range and with some creep. This can be improved somewhat by cutting a coil or two off the trigger spring AND very carefully removing a slight amount of metal off hammer notch (maybe up to .010"). HOWEVER be very careful when doing this as all safety/trigger/hammer parts are restricted to factory replacement only, so you can not go, even to a Remington warranty center and purchase these spare parts. Remington has a policy that any spare part that has to do with any possible safety issue if they sold it and was installed incorrectly that they will not sell it -- the gun has to go back to the factory. Therefore any part with the word, Barrel, Safety, Sear, Trigger, Receiver associated with it they will not sell individually.

The first thing I would look at if a FEEDING problem seems to be the culprit, is the magazine. Feeding problems on these series of models can many times be traced to the magazine as with any semi-auto. Here the average hunter is more likely to leave the magazine loaded even when the gun is put away. Also the magazines will have been carried in a pocket where lint, twigs, dirt etc. can accumulate. With this debris internally the live round can be restricted as it tries to feed up into the chamber, possibly causing a malfunction. Also they can have became sat on, squashed so as to not allow the follower to come all the way up. You notice I do not use the word “Jam”, as it is so broad a term that it is essentially useless when relating a firearm malfunction.

The followers from these semi-auto magazines will tax your imagination and patience to remove (because of the hold open unit is attached to the follower), then on reassembly again to reconnect them back onto the trip latch. I would suggest that to clean the internal parts of one of these, that either you soak it in solvent, blow it out with compressed air at the same time depressing the follower. Or if you happen to be dumb enough to disassemble one to get it clean, pay close attention to how it came apart as it has to be twisted sideways while holding your breath and jumping on your left foot 3 times.

Here you see a early magazine assembly (no caliber marking) for these firearms, note the follower release button	Here you have one of the better aftermarket high capacity magazines

You may see some "2 Shot" 760 and 742 magazines. These were made on original Remington tooling near the end of the factory run of extruded magazines. They are the same as the 4 shot versions EXCEPT they had indents both front and rear to limit the follower's downward movement. These were made for some European countries, OR Australia where center-fire rifle magazines have a 2 shot legal limit established. They have began showing up from Numrich / GunParts Corp in early 2022. Some were also sold as a bare magazine box (no spring or follower). It would be about impossible to readily undo these modifications without distorting the box to where it would fit the gun.

Remington 2 shot magazine

The next to look at if it has INFEEDING problems (by this I mean it will not chamber to where the bolt will not close completely) would be is the chamber crudded up or RUSTY. If that is OK, then are reloads being used? Reloads are not bad, BUT the reloader needs to be WELL aware of proper case sizing for semi-autos. This is a completely different animal than for bolt action guns. A SMALL BASE SIZING DIE needs to be used that sizes the WHOLE body back to ORIGINAL factory specs. Regular reloading sizing dies DO NOT do this.

Also if a bullet crimp is used for this reloaded ammo, the case have to be trimmed because upon firing, they stretch and over after a few firings, may need to be trimmed accordingly so there is no bulge at the neck because of this stretching. This reloaded case MUST fall into the chamber, as there is very little caming power on the rotating locking lugs as compared to a bolt handle on a bolt action rifle. This is also true with the 760 pump.

Also it is advisable to only reload them to be used for HUNTING, 2 or MAYBE 3 times. As when using the small base resizing die needed to resize back to original dimensions (to fit into the chamber, as the spring loaded camming action is considerably less that a hand operated bolt), it will also work the base of the case which can create a case head separation of the brass after a few loadings (squeezing it down, then it being blown out numerous times when subsequently being fired). You can reload them more, but use these multi loaded ones for target practice. Paint the primer with nail polish to identify those. Believe me it is rather helpless seeing an animal you just hit, but did not go down, then run off with you holding a useless firearm. You have a case head separation (the rear rim part has been pulled off the front part leaving 80% of the case in the chamber) and about all you can do in the field is to just can stand there with your finger in your nose.

Another thing to look at if you reload is that the pressure level has to be near the factory otherwise the bolt will not cycle fast enough to eject. You can not load a light load and expect the rifle to function. Read the reloading manual and try to pick a load at LEAST in the mid range.

You guys that say "I have reloaded for 30 years, therefore I know what I am doing" DOES NOT mean a thing if all if his experience has NOT BEEN for semi-autos or pumps that the reloader himself is not shooting this ammo themselves. In all my years as a gunsmith, I have seen a considerable number of so called experts come in with blown up guns, and usually blaming it on something else. Hell, I have been eating food for over 85 years, but that does not make me a dietician or cook.

To remove the bolt assembly from this firearm first you need to remove the trigger group assembly (as described above), then you have to remove the forearm. Unscrew the front forearm retainer screw, slide the forearm off forward. In the underneath barrel gas port lug there is a sheet-metal U gas nozzle/recoil spring guide that is held in place by a crosswise roll pin. Drive this pin out. Pull the guide rearward enough to clear the gas nozzle on the barrel lug, then the U shaped guide down, then pull out and forward the metal guide tube. Now the recoil/action spring can be removed from the rear side of the operating rods forward gas block.

Slide the recoil spring rails back enough to disengage the bolt's locking lugs. If you roll the action over and look up into the receiver at the location of the operating handle, you will see the inner end of a small (1/16" diameter retainer pin. This holds the base of the operating handle in. Roll the action over and locate the upper (outer) end of this pin (you might have to slide the ejection port cover a bit to locate the pin). Using a punch, drive this pin INWARD and out of the bolt carrier. Catch this pin as it falls free in the inside. Now the operating handle can be withdrawn outward and out of the gun.

A word of caution here, on these semi-autos, the inner part of the operating handle also doubles as a bolt head cam pin, engaging in a cam slot in the bolt head. There are two cams, one on each side. The cam pin on the far side is simply a short 3/16" diameter pin that can fall out when disassembled as it is simply retained inside when everything is assembled. These pins are what connect the bolt head to the bolt body.

In the front receiver below the barrel where the recoil spring abutted there is a 3/8" threaded stud (you will not see it). This is attached to the front of the receiver and protrudes forward and through the barrel extension, all of which holds the barrel in place by a round threaded nut. On the 740 there are 4 holes drilled around the periphery of this nut that can be accessed by a special wrench. However you may see chisel or punch marks around the outside left by previous repair operations where the wrench was not available. The 742 uses a hex nut, but it is an uncommon size (25/32") and again hard to unscrew because of it's closeness to the barrel and the action bars. The factory made special open end wrenches that had thin outer ends, allowing it to reach in farther on the nut, yet clear the operating rods somewhat.

If this nut gets battered or you wish to upgrade and replace it with a standard 3/4" wrench size, one made for the 7400. Once this nut is removed, remove the thin dual eared spring under the nut. This flat U shaped spring is designed to put tension on the inside rear of the forearm to keep it from rattling. Now the barrel assembly, operating rod and bolt assembly can be drawn forward and out of the receiver.

Shown in the photo below the slide has been held back about 1 1/2" to clarify things by showing the gas nozzle. You can see the front roll pin retaining the U shaped guide retainer, with the gas nozzle between the barrel and the recoil guide. At the complete forward position, this nozzle is enclosed inside a blind hole inside the large metal block that is attached to the action slide arms. Upon firing, the burning gasses expand and rush out the hollow nozzle, pushing the spring loaded block and arms rearward, retracting to extract and eject the fired case. At the end of the stroke with the gas dissipated, the recoil spring pushes everything back, loading a new round and chambering it ready for another shot. At the rear of the recoil spring (which goes over the guide tube) you can see the hex nut that holds everything together.

In the photo below, note the different barrel/receiver nut. Also you will notice the aftermarket folding rear sight, which was needed because of the low mounting scope..

Remington 740 gas system

Remington 742 gas system

In operation on these 742 models, as the bolt moves out of battery the bolt latch locks the rotating bolt head, keeping it from rotating. This bolt latch lies in a slot in the bolt body. The front of the latch has a downward angled front ear that goes into a recess. Directly behind this front angled recess is a small hole the dia. of the slot. There is a spring loaded (.087 dia.) pivot pin that goes into this hole with a spring under it. This pin has one rounded end. This rounded end goes UP to act as a pivot for the latch. There is also another hole in the rear of the slot. The pin that goes into this slot also has a spring under it. But this plunger has BOTH ends square, as the upper end acts as a retainer against a square matching notch in the underside of the latch. However sometimes the rear plunger does not have enough tension to really hold the latch in position during cycling.

    Remington’s after the fact technicians solution was to drop a #7 ½ lead shot pellet into this rear plunger hole before you put the spring in. This increased the tension and improved operation.   Many of the 742 parts are now obsolete, this plunger being one, so if you make a new plunger out of .087 dia. drill rod, make it .280 overall length, you will have done the same as installing the lead shot as a spacer under the spring.   You may well try the spring and your new plunger in the assembled unit before you install them in the firearm, as if there is any debris in the hole or a slightly short hole, the latch may not be depressed far enough to allow the bolt carrier to depress the latch far enough, so you may have to shorten it.   Or if it is one that the factory or a gunsmith who attended one of the last seminars where this tidbit of information was passed on, the hole may be shorter already where it may be hard to get the lead shot out without drilling.

    Another problem with these guns is that the chambers tend to get rusty.   These extractors are a light metal "C" type clip with a small hole on one end that is used with a rivet to anchor it into the bolt head, and on the other side of this extractor there is a slight protrusion that has a sharp rear edge that acts as the extraction point.

    At first the rusty chamber situation may just be the cause of extraction problems.   Then since things do not improve by themselves, the extractor may get bent and not be as efficient as it should be.

    As things worsen, the gun can malfunction by not pulling the case from the chamber because of the internal rust in the chamber gripping the fired case and or the faulty extractor.   If the rusty chamber gets bad enough so the case is really stuck, the bolt will come back with enough force that it can rip the lips of the bolt face off.   This then leaves no metal to hold the extractor into the bolt head.   You now can have a really stuck fired case and a broken bolt head.

In the pictures below the barrel was almost ruined by neglect, but was salvageable because it was caught early and was mostly surface rust. The bore was bad also that when I got the gun, but it was firing and extracting, much to my dismay. I was able to salvage this gun, by polishing the chamber with crocus cloth, fire lapping the bore, and the gun is still in service today as far as I know.

A GOOD gunsmith/welder can weld the broken lips of the bolt, re-machine it back and reinstall a new extractor. If the chamber rust is not too bad it can be polished out with fine emery cloth wound around a slotted flexible shaft mounted in a 1/4" drill motor. It has been discussed on some message boards to not do this because it will change the headspace. BULL SHIT, chamber diameter dimensions have nothing to do with headspace AND these are not match grade rifles.

Well, the gun is somewhat ruined now, whatever you do to get it operational makes it better than it was. Sure you may have made a slight minute change in the chamber diameter, but using this method, you can not remove an excess amount UNLESS you use course emery cloth and get forget to check it often. Also do not believe any BS you hear about the chamber HAS TO BE slightly rough. Look at any new semi-auto and you will see a very smooth chamber, some (Browning BARs) are even chrome plated. If it is somewhat rough, the extractor will indeed pull chunks off the case rim leaving the fired case in the chamber OR it will rip the bolt lips off that hold the extractor in place in the bolt. This roughness idea may have come from a retarded blowback pistol, which this is NOT THE CASE HERE.

These later guns (742) use a plastic type ejection port cover, which is now obsolete by Remington, but made by an aftermarket business. The 7400 cover is slightly different, but usable if you alter it to be close to the old 742 cover. The 7400 is a bit longer, but that does not hurt operation, however it is .640 in height. You need to remove .040 off the bottom and alter the front end to close to the 742 shape. You can not get it all the same there, but enough to work. But don't cut it so close on the lower forward end that you weaken it. The other thing, you may have to remove a slight bit from inside the forward slot if the operating handle bumps on the closed stroke. You will notice the operating handle notch is in a different location, but that is inconsequential being only used on disassembly.

After many years of pondering why these guns were plagued with this rust case phenomena and not the makes or models of others, the following answer finally came to me one night about 2AM. It was the dedicated, hunt in the cold/rain, deer/elk hunters that seemed to have the majority of the problems. The sunshine hunters appear to not have any problems.

In the Pacific Northwest, elk season is later in the year when the weather is nasty, cold, rain, sleet and blowing. Also here the brush, replanted young Douglas fir or Hemlock trees checker boarded between thick timber, so the hunters usually get out in the brush in the morning, get wet and cold, and then drive around on logging roads in the afternoon to dry out, in hopes of see animals that some other hunters have put on the move. In the state of Washington, a loaded firearm in the vehicle is illegal, even a loaded magazine in the firearm is considered LOADED, so they unload the gun, remove the magazine, then rest the muzzle on the floor possibly between the 2 hunters or in a gun rack for quick access.

This could also happen in a very humid climate. But here in the colder weather if the gun is brought into a warm vehicle, the barrel will condense water on the inside, since the action is spring loaded and has no means of being held open without an empty magazine inserted, so the average owner simply leaves the action closed. The gun has gotten wet and COLD, now it is subject to a forced HOT air from the heater, in this close proximity to heat, the COLD steel condenses moisture on both sides of the steel. With the bolt forward under spring pressure, with the muzzle down, when the barrel warms up the inside has condensation, this rises, and is trapped inside the chamber. And now this moisture inside has no place to go because the bolt is closed.

If the drive home is long enough and/or the firearm stays there long enough, the outside condensation will dry off. And at the end of the day, the hunter then takes it home, may stand it in the corner to completely dry off. The condensed water inside of the barrel, then runs down, collects in the chamber area. Then possibly the gun MAY see an oily cleaning patch run thru the bore but the chamber is usually missed because it is missed by the patch and also out of sight since there is no way to clean the bore from the rear. This is not an area that the average hunter will even see if he runs a cleaning rag thru the barrel. Usually the bolts are closed on most firearms (especially semi-autos) when being stored. This also traps any moisture inside the chamber. The gun is set away with the bolt closed until the next year with the owner thinking that they have done the right thing. Then the first day of deer season, the gun gets shot, but it will not cycle the 2nd round because the fired case is stuck in the barrel. The end result is a RUSTY chamber that we gunsmiths have seen MANY, MANY times, but did not understand what may have happened.

    At one time the factory supplied a Nylon chamber brush with each new gun, this brush had the handle made in a "dog leg", somewhere along the line, non-wisdom prevailed and it vanished out of the shipping boxes.   This brush may have helped in the above situation.

     One of the most common problems with the Remington 740 and 742 is that after much useage, the receiver rails may get battered/worn.   The top receiver rail guides the bolt lugs on the movement both rearward and forward.   The receiver is made of a soft easily machined steel since the bolt lugs engage the rear of the hardened barrel extension for a positive lockup. In essence the receiver simply holds the parts together and could possibly be made of aluminum IF there was a rear bolt stop buffer.

    This movement is under gas pressure on the rearward movement and spring pressure on the forward movement.   At the rearward stop position the inertia of this bolt lug exerts extra pressure, camming it against the LH side of the receiver rail slot, pounding it enough that this rail gets atter/worn.   There is a bolt latch on the 742 (this latch was not on the 740).   This latch is supposed to lock the bolt head into the bolt carrier to help keep the front from over-rotating at the most rearward inertia's movement, but after enough wear on all parts, things seem to get sloppy and do not really function as intended.

    When this happens the bolt lugs, now slightly out of time/position, having been moving back and forth of the force of the gas system, may also chew up the front of the rails.   Then this happens the bolt carrier and lugs can get bound up, then in extreme circumstances actually stop the bolt unit from cycling when the gun is fired, or binding it on the return stroke enough to stop it before it completely closes.

    Under some circumstances the operating handle may drag, usually on the bottom of the receiver slot that the handle operates in.   If this happens it is usually related to the above rail problem.

In the photo below, look at the rear scope mount hole (LH one). Directly below this hole you can see 5 regularly shaped bumps in the guide rail slot, these are caused by rearward inertia of the bolt's 5 locking lugs when they come to an abrupt stop at the rearward end of the stroke of the whole operating system inside the forearm and receiver. Over time, it just keeps being battered more and more to where it can become so bad that the slide unit may become bound up rearward. There is another spot here that is worn but hard to see in this photo, that is again in this guide rail slot, below the front (RH) screw hole and almost to the 2nd hole. This is also caused by the bolt lugs, but not to the same degree of damage, and more of a scraping situation which is caused at the initial unlock stage of the locking lugs.

What you will usually experience when these rails get chewed up like this is the bolt unit may get stuck rearward, or part way forward. But if it fails to close completely it is usually not caused by this, but a bad chamber or ammo, or for an early gun a unscrewed barrel lug extension (as mention below).

Since there are no new receivers available and the only used ones could be questionable in that may possibly be worn also, A GOOD gunsmith/welder/machinist familiar with firearms can usually salvage the receiver by welding the worn rails with a long nozzled wire feed welder. The need for Wire Feed welding over TIG is that wire feed can weld a lot colder and if done in small segments, the receiver does not get hot enough to ruin the blueing.

This receiver can then be re-machined to factory dimensions using a vertical mill and using special long shanked cutters. Just FYI, the cutters needed would be (1) a long shanked 1/4" carbide end mill, (2) a 3/4" dia. by 3/16" wide Woodruff cutter, (3) a 5/8" ball nose end mill with a 1/2" long shank. This smaller diameter shank is needed so you do not scrub the inside of the receiver, as it is that close. This is all done by "eye ball" machining down inside the receiver, since you can not really see in there that well. Lots of light AND SMALL CUTS are the name of the game, using padded vise jaws.

In the 7400 series rifles, this problem was eliminated by machining out a wider/shallow dovetail in the inside upper part of the receiver and inserting a hardened steel insert to guide the bolt lugs better. They also changed the small multiple locking lugs on the bolt to less and larger lugs.

One thing that can happen, (BUT VERY UNCOMMON), is on the early guns made before Feb. 1977, date code (LO), on the 740, 742, and the 760s, the barrel threads were changed from RH to LH, to help stop the possibility of the barrel extension (locking lugs) from unscrewing from the barrel during the firing cycle. If this happens, you will likely encounter the bolt unit may hang up just before closing, on BOTH a cartridge AND an empty chamber. What is happening is the barrel extension (the part at the rear of the barrel that has the locking lug recesses) may have become unscrewed slightly just enough to not be truly aligned so that when the bolt carrier brings the bolt rotating locking lugs forward, that you have a slight mismatch. To check this, with the barrel off the receiver, you will have to use the eyeball method, where by looking at it from the position of the photo below, the inside upper channel needs to be as close to centered (rotation) as possible. Here will be no witness marks to go by here, just centered with the magazine well recess AND the bore.

The method of retightening this lug extension (which is screwed onto the barrel by RH threads) is to use the tool shown below that is made for removing it from the barrel. On these that have loosened, when tightening them, it is suggested to remove this extension, clean the threads and to use a mild Locktite sealant like blue or green.

If you, as a gunsmith have to take the barrel extension off to do any rechambering or rebarreling you will need to make a barrel extension wrench. This extension is actually the barrel's locking lugs. It is threaded and timed to the barrel so that the extension is indexed so the sights, and the barrel lug are all indexed for bolt lockup, and correct headspace so everything where it should be. There is not any commercially available fixtures available to remove these extensions. If you try to use any other method, you will about 99% be assured of breaking the hardened extension. However shown below is a photo of the one I made.

You have all the dimensions you need to make these right in front of you, the OD of the lug extension is the hole diameter. The working end of the slider fits the top locking lugs. The 3/8" hole for the bolt is the hole that the receiver retaining bolt is located in the barrel lug. This bolt does not go all the way through into the barrel lug on disassembly, but is needed in that location for reassembly for re-alignment. The main tool body is .875 thick with the lug engagement slider .500.

In the above photo, the inner slider is made to fit inside the barrel locking lugs. The 3/8" bolt locks the slider to the base. The bolt hole is also aligned with the barrel lug attachment bolt hole. In use, for removal the base is inserted over the barrel lug extension, the slider is then slid endwise into the lug recess. The 3/8" bolt is inserted in just far enough to lock these 2 parts together, but not into the main barrel lug for removal. Mark the relationship of the barrel to the barrel lug with a scribe mark on layout die so you can re-align the sights. This will allow you to reinstall it in the same position. Sometimes these lug units are seized on rather tight. And then the barrel lug can also be tight after you get the lug extension off.

Now Remington changed the threads at barrel date code (LO) from RH to LH to facilitate the extension not being backed off when used on the semi-auto guns. This will determine which direction, when you try to remove it from from the barrel. You can now put the barrel in a barrel vise, rap the removal handle sharply with a 3# hammer, in the proper direction, then unscrew the lug extension off the barrel. These extensions are usually on tight and require force to remove even after the initial bond is broken. Once it is off, if the barrel lug is stubborn and resists, you may screw the extension back on part way, do it over again but with the 3/8" bolt thru the barrel lug to take both off at the same time.

The picture below of a fired 30-06 Winchester factory round that was fired in a early 742, barrel code (CM) that the RH threaded barrel extension had became loose, unthreading as the case was being extracted. On this gun the extractor held the loaded round tight enough to allow the firing pin to actually fire the round. As luck would have it, the bullet exited the barrel relieving pressure while the case was still somewhat in the chamber during extraction. It is hard to see but you may notice a slight crease in the body behind the shoulder where this case upon being ejected was dented as it was going out and hit the ejection port of the receiver.

Remington has also discontinued making extractors for these guns (apparently because they are now obsolete by their standards), extractor #14669 which was 30-06 size riveted type and are the same that had been used on the 700, 740, 742, 760, 788 (all obsolete guns). These extractors are riveted into the bolt, require a special rivet and tool to install. The rivet tool and replacement extractors are currently available from Brownells in Iowa 1-800-471-0015. Extractors for the newer 7400/7600s are non riveted type and snap into mating recesses in the bolt head.

    Bolt latches are also factory discontinued, but are being currently made by Wisner's Inc. Bolt heads are non existent, except from cannibalized guns, but by the time a gun has enough worn parts to warrant cannibalization, they too are usually worn or broken.

    Magazine latches are also obsolete.   However the larger latch off the newer 7400 series can be used if the new spring is also used.

    Firing pins also are obsolete, however I think Pennsylvania Gun Parts is having them made. Aftermarket manufacturers like Uncle Mikes make sling swivel kits to fit these guns.

    Buttstock wood is the SAME AND INTERCHANGEABLE for all of the Models 740, 742, #4, #6, 74, 7400, 7600. The factory will not tell you this, but they WILL all interchange.   The finish, and / or checkering will not match your original one however.   But at this stage of the game, you will more than likely have to take what you can find.

    Forearms are a different matter.   All 740, 742 forearms are now obsolete, HOWEVER if you replace the complete forearm, front metal plate, spacer, and the screw, then the current 7400 will fit.

The recoil/action spring from the 7400 should fit the previous models.

The sights have changed many times over the years. The early guns (740 and 760s) used a distinctive rear sight attached with a 3/8" dovetail, where any aftermarket 3/8" sight, both front and rear will fit. Later the factory utilized the same sights for all their center-fire rifles (except the model 600 and 788s), meaning the 700, 742, 760 all used the same sight bases (maybe a higher or lower front sight depending on the caliber). If your barrel has the sights screwed onto it like the 700s, and you loose part of the rear sight, you might be best to try to get a whole new one for the 700 or 7400/7600 series, as the screw holes are all the same spacing. The rear screw on sight unit has been changed 3 times and parts for the earlier two versions are no longer available from the factory. The front ramp was initially silver soldered onto the barrel, later it was screwed on using two screws with one under the blade's dovetail.

About all the newer type pump and semi-auto guns, whether they be rim-fire, center-fire or shotgun use many of the same basic “Fire Control” parts (as Remington calls the trigger group) parts. This would be the 552, 572, for the RF, 740, 742, 760, 4, 6, 74, 76, 7400 and 7600 for the CF. 11-48, Sportsman 48, 870, 58, 878, 1100, and the 11-87 in the shotguns. They are now only supplied in Right Hand from the factory. AND you CAN NOT simply reverse the RH to make it function as a LH unit.

For many years there were aftermarket Left Hand replacement triggers available from sources like Williams Gunsight Co., Uncle Mikes, Herters, etc. However for some reason these companies dropped production. The guess is that if THEY sold you a replacement safety and YOU installed it improperly, that they were responsible legally because THEY SHOULD HAVE KNOWN that someone could also have done something else wrong inside the “Fire Control” unit at the same time, creating a unsafe situation. These companies also could have felt threatened by lawyers to the effect that they were making a product that altered the factory design.

You might find some enterprising machine shop that may possibly be making some LH safeties, but in all probability they too, would not be advertising it to any degree, because of the possible liability involved.

Early on, Remington supplied some of the trigger guard units drilled with 2 different safety plunger detent holes so that YOU could simply interchange the RH to LH. They even supplied a detailed drawing of this placement of the hole so gunsmiths could do it. However they later found that beings as how this trigger guard was made of an aluminum casting, that over time the THIN web between these 2 holes was prone to breaking, then the safety would not function as designed. More liability, so this whole idea was apparently abandoned.

Failure to eject after a scope was mounted is a situation that can also be encountered. The usual problem here is that the scope base mounting screws may be too long, protruding down into the receiver bolt rails, and then dragging on the bolt lugs upon firing.

The factory has no current cross-reference to the 742 parts interchangeability, if a gunsmith orders the 742 part number, the order will come back saying -- discontinued--. This is very hard to understand in this computer day and age, but the factory service department underwent a total restructuring, when they moved to the southern US. The old people who knew anything were let go, or retired, so the new people either do not know any history/interchangeability, or were told to not offer information that some of the new parts will fit. It is the belief that the factory does not want 740 and 742's repaired, therefore the above information seems to be more valid. However they have not taken into account of the resourcefulness of the ingenious gunsmith. They want you to by a new model. The factory even can not cross-reference the buttstock bolts, saying the older ones are obsolete. But the current 870, 7400/7600 stock bolts are the same and will fit.

    There was a factory upgrade for the worn receiver rails at one time, where you sent your non-repairable 740 or 742 back to the factory, that they would exchange it for a new 7400 for the wholesale price. This however was more than the original gun was worth even in excellent shape.   This program has been discontinued since about the mid 1980s.

     For Remington factory date codes CLICK HERE

    It seems that old guns are like many of us, in that just don't know when to give up.   Sometimes however it is better to just let the old gun die, but how many of you cherish Grandpas rifle?

Model 4 / 7400 : In December of 1980, the Model 742 was discontinued and replaced by the Model 4 and Model 7400. There may have been some confusion with the other Remington #4, which was a Rolling Block single shot rimfire rifle that Remington made from 1890 to 1933.

This model (along with the 7600) had internal changes trying to improve the 740/742s. As mentioned above the factory eliminated the soft receiver problem by machining out a shallow dovetail in the inside upper part of the receiver and inserting a hardened steel insert. They also changed the small multiple locking lugs on the bolt to less and larger lugs. The scope mount location holes were different and went to the larger 8-40 threads normally used (6-48), requiring a different scope base. The magazine release was made larger.

When Remington dropped the 742 in 1981, they came out in 1982 with the newer internal design semi-auto, while still maintaining the same exterior configuration. It was designated the deluxe model 4, and the plain Jane model 7400. The calibers available were 6mm Rem. (discontinued in 1987) 243, 270, 280, 30-06, 308, and 35 Whelen. A carbine in 30-06 was introduced in 1988. The extractor was changed from the riveted in style, common with the 740, 742 and the bolt action 700 to a non-riveted snap in type. This new style extractor was also incorporated into the model 700 bolt action gun. But the 4/7400 utilized the same, but a slightly heavier/stronger version extractor than the bolt action guns.

The model 4 was the deluxe version (or as the earlier 742 was designated, it would have been equal to a BDL grade). The model 4 had high gloss checkered walnut wood with white line spacers under the buttplate, grip cap and forearm tip. The model 7400 which was the same gun, except plainer wood, satin finish, pressed checkering (would have been equivalent to the ADL).

I am not running down the design of these models, as it was well past time. BUT now comes a real salesmanship BULL SHIT from Remington's factory reps. They must have had bosses who were politicians, as we, the small independent dealers were swooned and lied to when these new models were advertised.

In the spring of 1982 at the NRA convention Remington invited us retail dealers to a conference room meeting. The Remington factory sales reps told us (independent dealers) that "they" were advertising for the independent dealer AND promoting the model 4 in all national sports magazines TO HELP US sell their guns. They did not tell us that there was also being made at that time in an economy model, the 7400. We found out later in the early fall after we got our shipment of model 4s, that Remington had promoted and sold the 7400s to K-Mart, Wal-Mart etc. at a greatly reduced price as compared to the Model 4 that they were selling us.

The retail customer was not dumb, as he could buy a new Remington semi-automatic 30-06 from the "Marts" for $100 less than we were charging, he did not care what it looked like, only the price, and was very upset that we could not match their (the Marts) discounted price for our higher grade guns. The situation was that part of the deal was the "marts" guns were only available in 30-06 caliber, and the customer could not understand why we (Independent Dealers) could not sell them a 270 Winchester caliber for the same price the marts wanted for their 30-06. The end result was that we were therefore stuck with higher priced guns on our shelves, and upset customers.

Then in 1983 Remington acknowledged and then indeed have the 7400s in their sales catalog. The independent shop owners had to then buy the model 7400's to stay even at somewhat competitive. So the model 4's sat on our shelves AND at the factory warehouse. It took the factory a few years to figure out that what was going on was of their own creation but never admitted it to us.

    As time went on, new versions appeared including synthetic stocked models with glass-beaded dull metal finish, even a Electoless nickel finish on the metal.

    Model 74 : Then later, about 1985 there was an even cheaper model, the Model 74, again made in 30-06 only, which took the place of the then "older" 7400, but with cheaper walnut stained birch wood, with no checkering. The metal finish did not have the higher luster of the 7400. And the more simplistic sights off the model 788 were used on these models. Now the "Marts" could again under-price us because we again did not know about these 74s. These guns also carried Remington's economy name of "Sportsman".

    In 1987 Remington then phased out the model 4, then soon, the Model 7400 started showing up with the better wood previously found on the Model 4.   So in essence the two above guns (model 4 and 7400) in the end were the same except the wood and period of manufacture.

    Magazines for the 740, 742, model 4, 7400, 74 are all the same and are interchangeable.

The models 4, 74, 7400 (along with the 6, 76, 7600) were designed with 3 larger locking lugs, a slightly cone shaped barrel breech for better feeding, a hardened rail insert in the top of the receiver to guide the upper locking lug, eliminating the possibility of the receiver rails being ruined. The scope base mounting holes were changed and increased in size from the normal 6-48 to 8-40 size. The firing pin was redesigned with a gas shield. The trigger group remained basically the same with the exception of a larger magazine release button.

About 2002 the magazine tooling wore out and there was only one company that was able, or wanted to do the deep drawing required for this operation. As mentioned above this company made and owned the tooling under the original contract, but when it wore out, they opted not to continue making the magazines for Remington. Remington then had MecGar make new replacement magazines out of 2 pieces with the bottom of nylon attached to the sides instead of a single drawn magazine. However the new magazines may require fitting to the older guns.

Model 750 : The year 2006 saw the Model 750 replacing the wood-stocked Model 7400 versions and features a restyled American walnut fore-end and stock with machine-cut checkering. And was also available in a brushed stainless type finish. It later came out with a black synthetic stock. It comes supplied with factory sling swivel studs.

The factory advertisement says felt recoil is diminished by its ultra-efficient gas action (what ever that is) and the addition of a revolutionary R3® recoil pad. It is supposed to have a better self-compensating gas system. My guess was that they changed the gas nozzle shape so that it dissipates the gasses better as the action bars move the attached gas block rearward. And/or they possibly just chrome plated parts of the 7400 gas system and are calling it improved.

However I recently received some further information from a person who had gotten info direct from Remington "The model 750 uses a different gas block system. The 74 series of rifles used a 90 degree gas port system. The model 750 uses an angled system inside the gas block. "

OK, I'm close, as this could result in a slightly different cyclic rate using a different gas bleed off method.

This model appears to me to be a regeneration of the earlier Model 4 as a deluxe model with a more beaver-tailed forearm which also provides more wood around the inner sheet steel liner, which will also improve the cracked forearm issue.

One thing to remember on any recoil operated firearm, if you are having erratic ejection issues, it may not be the gun, BUT how you are holding the gun. This meaning, these type of firearms need resistance on the back end (YOUR SHOULDER). If you have a really soft recoil pad, soft down vest and not pulling it tight against your shoulder, OR shooting it off a bench where the gun is not held tightly, you MAY WELL experience failure to eject. This symptom will be very close as if the ammo was weak, recoil spring needs replacing, or the gas symptom partly blocked. Or again if off the bench, pressure may have been put on the bottom of the magazine, forcing it up just high enough to restrict free movement of the breech bolt.

Another possible issue can be if the gun has been fitted with a silencer, which will throw all operations that are common out the window.

The author does not have any source of parts for any of the firearms listed above

Remington 740 visible pivot pin hole in receiver	Remington 740 pivoted ejector lays in the LH side

Remington 740 pivoted ejector protruding out the back of the bolt face	Here the Remington 740A & later, plunger ejector mounted in the bolt face

CAD drawing of Williams Gunsight accuracy block (long) for the Remington 740	Actual photo of this extinct animal

Remington 740/740A/760 original rear sight (G1)	First Remington 742 & corresponding 760 rear sight (G2)

Remington later rear sight (G3)	Remington late rear sight (G4)
	coming

A 7400 with a rusty chamber	Same gun as on the left, obviously someone used this one in a rainstorm & neglected to clean it, look at the rust on the spring guide rod & gas nozzle