,yard - garage sales

Frustrations in Understanding Yard/Garage Sale Customers

 

 

  Yard /Garage sales are a thing that many people look forward to on week-ends.  Some just for the chance to get out for a drive and use it for recreation, while others may have a variety of reasons to have a chance to pick up stuff to further their collections, or replace a worn piece of equipment.  I know a few ladies who are on a retired fixed budget with only a few dollars to spend each week.  I also know one guy who hits all the yard/garage/estate sales for the sole purpose of finding firearms at the cheapest price that he can negotiate.  Then he peddles them at gun shows at a much higher price.  He is the type that is a smooth talker and seems to prey on widows and he thinks that his intellectual ability is above the level it really is.  Then there are others who are professionals and use it to supply their antique businesses, these seem to be the "Early Birds" AND the "Cherry Pickers".


  In most instances, the seller is trying to get rid of an accumulation of stuff, which is either no longer being used, or a combining of families (widow re-marrying).

 

  Then there are Moving or Estate Sales, which the same reasons apply, but with one MAJOR difference for the seller.

 

  As listed above the reasons for trying to dispose of this "surplus" stuff can vary form each sale to sale.   Also set prices may vary dramatically depending on the seller's point of view.  Some may say set it high and intend on dickering, while others do not believe in this policy (me included here).   Some stuff my be very close to being garbage, while others could even be new unused, very good shape and of a high quality, and should be priced accordingly.

 

   Value pricing online MAY or MAY NOT be valid, as some of these sellers can not even properly identify their item.

 

  The above could probably also apply to gun shows.

 

   Observances From The Buyer Side :   For me, I like to see a well laid out table/setup, with each table of a general type and not a hod podge of mix-match.  Separate the MAN Stuff from the WOMAN stuff and don't make the man walk through all the woman stuff to see what is there.

 

  For me personally, I DO NOT LIKE TO SEE UNMARKED / UNPRICED ITEMS unless it is advertised as such, and the seller wants things gone.  I usually am not heavily bankrolled and have to watch what I spend, and if I have to ask, to me it means the seller is usually lazy.   And usually the price is way higher than I am willing to pay (and which is usually considered an antique by the seller), so how do I graciously decline the purchase?  However after a while it gets to the point that I either don't ask and just pass it by, or if I ask and don't give a DAMN what they think.  UNLESS it is advertised as make offer because of an expansive barn type sale.

 

   I normally pay the stickered price if it is reasonable and something I want/need.  Occasionally I may ask if the price is negotiable.  I am pretty knowledgeable enough with what i am looking for, in that I can make a quick pass and walk on if there is nothing I want.  However I am NOT an impulse buyer, but if something is there that I need, I will buy it.  I very rarely touch anything without asking first (depending on the value).

 

     I really hate it when they advertise the sale from say 10AM to 4PM and the shut it down at 2 PM.  I also would like to see NOT have all starting times at the same time.  If everyone starts at 9AM and has done their advertising mentioning "GOOD" stuff, it may be hard to coordinate my timing to get there because of the locations being spread out.  If you are like me, I have a plan as to where my route will take me. 

   In your advertisement give the physical address, like 123 Mayberry Street, Your Town.   Not the third house past the old gas station beyond the North Street intersection.  Or Abbot Street off Highway 14.  About everyone now uses GPS to find you, you need to give them something that comes up on it.  AND your address needs to be VERY visible on a mailbox or on the house.  You and the mail person surely know where you live, BUT it should be easy for your potential customers to find you.   I have driven by numerous times on one, where FINALLY that I stopped at what was the neighbors (who was washing his car), form there you could see the house number hidden behind a tree in the front yard.   Another that I had made phone conversation with, where the address was given but no house number or mail box visible, we had an approximate time set, she texted me my ETA, I answered back I must have just past her place.  When I turned a round, she was in the middle of the street waving.  I have given up a few times because of miss-directions and no cell service.

 

    There also should be provisions for adequate parking.

                 

   Observances From The Seller Side of the Table :  With the Covid-19 virus, it may be wise to have some hand sanitizers available.  And how do you deal with wearing the face masks in these outside/distancing settings?

 

  There seem to be 6 types of buyers, (1) The honest person who will even come back and return a $20 bill for the $5 one that you should have given them in change. (2) Those that have a genuine interest if the item and what they are looking for.   (3) Those who will pay the set price (if it is reasonable) without any hassling.  (5) Those that are interested in only getting something at a BARGAIN and, then want you to discount it farther.  (4) The Looky Loos, who are just killing time.  (6)  Then the ones who will haggle, and even pass bad bills to pay for it.  (7) The ones who will steal an item from the seller, and many times something from a set, which makes the item left on the table not saleable. 

 

    We had one gentleman who seemed to be a professional yard sale shopper (probably owned a antique store), who made a quick scan, then picked up an older reasonably priced phone, then commented "the line has been cut", and walked off.

    Yes some of the items I put out are to get rid of them for $5 or $10.  However value is meaningful, I will not let a pair of HEAVY wool hunting pants (that sell new for $179) go for $20.  I DO NOT have junk.  Some, I look up current retail and discount it 50%, here the people who are interested will pay that price, otherwise I DO NOT GIVE A DAMN.  Many times I price good items at say $35, $45, $65, with the intent of coming down the $5.

 

  You will need at least, $50 in seed money, ($100 would be better) from 50 cents, $1, $5, $10 and $20s, with more in the smaller denominations, but depending on the value of your offerings.  Do not keep it in your pocket, but some means to contain all this cash.  An old business bank bag works for us.  Or a Fanny pack is really better if you are alone.  Keep a notebook and record each sale, the amount and what it was.  This may be crucial if your dollars don't match the notes at the end of the day.  It may be too late by then, but you can possibly identify who or what you did wrong in your count.

 

   It also appears that there are two types of buyers, (1) those that have bulging wallets, and (2) Those that don't.  By and large, the ones that have a modest wallet, seem to be the more straightforward and honest.

 

  Very possibly the ones with a bulging wallet only want to part with some that is inside if they can turn a profit on the item.   While the flatter wallet person is someone who may NEED the item.  It also appears that the more affluent the person is, the more of a tight wad they are.  The ones that drive up in BMWs or Corvettes usually don't spend anything and always park in front, but are just showing off.

 

  From the ladies side, figurines, glassware etc. MANY will pick everything up and look at the bottom to find out who made it or where it was made.  What do you tell them when they break a delicate item, that was with a set?   They just bought the whole set.  If it is clothing that they are looking at, many times they just leave it laying in a heap.  And after handling anything, they NEVER leave it laying in the position that you had it placed.

 

  Parking, is one of my pet peeves.  About 95% of the people who come to our sales have no consideration for anyone who may come behind them as far as parking, OR someone before them who they now have just blocked in.  However if you do have limited parking, you really should consider moving your own vehicles away, even to make room for just one more car, as many shoppers are inconsiderate.

 

  I have had one sale of an old military rifle that was considered a collector item and not covered by a background check, that the buyer haggled me down from $120 to $100, flashed a $100 bill, then crumpled it, and handed it to me.  This guy, I had known his dad for 50 years and him occasionally at my business before I retired 19 years ago.  That night after we closed, when I tallied the sales compared to the notes taken in a notebook, I was right at $100 short.  In recounting, I had found a - One dollar bill that had been altered by adding two CRUDE zeros behind the one.  He was the only $100 sale that I had that day, so it was pretty clear in my mind who it was that passed it.  I should have been more attentive, but we were busy, he asked me questions about it away from the cash out table and when he showed (flashed) it (the bill) to me for probably two seconds of time, he used his right hand, but covered up the top denomination with his thumb, thereby showing the best of the alterations, and he was quick, then at time of him paying, when he handed it to me, it was crumpled up so I never really got to get a good look at the denomination. 

 

   He is always a better than average dresser, and I did not question him as I knew him, (not well, but enough to say hello).  When I get over the initial shock, I don't get mad, but I WILL GET EVEN IF I LIVE LONG ENOUGH.

 

  He came back the next day looking for something that he had looked at but that was then sold, but had a grandson with him, and I did not really feel right confronting him in front of the boy who was about 12 years old.  Maybe that is why he brought the boy along.  Maybe I am too much a nice guy.

 

Here, you see the crudely ALTERED One Dollar bill

 

  The same day after closing and cleaning up, putting things away, I also found a part missing from a fishing rod holder set.  This holder was obsolete, (but still with a factory, but opened plastic package). With it were 2 other used matching holders, one had a base attached, but the other without a base.  In this package was a base with new holder, but it was loose in the package. This base was missing.  First I thought maybe it had fallen out of the package and I would find it.  No, it was not anywhere around. This is a old rare, but VERY GOOD/DESIRABLE unit that who ever took it knew exactly what it was, probably had those type on his boat, and wanted another base so he could move his existing ones around.  These bases are way more hard to find than the holders themselves, and very hard to fabricate new ones.  Another loss !

 

     Lay Aways :  Here, you are running a chance that the person will even come back when they said they would, and you may have lost the sale to someone later,  UNLESS you get a deposit.


   Firearm Sales :  Here, (depending on the state that you live in, rules may differ) where some require ALL gun sales to go through a dealer for a background check on the buyer.  But by Federal law, any firearm made before 1898 is considered antique and exempt from most requirements, as black-powder guns and air rifles also are.  Then there is another Federal rule on any gun that is over 50 years old is considered a collector item, (which would include any WWII firearm).  Pistols however are still a pistol and may have stricter requirements.  And some firearms made before 1968 do not have serial numbers and therefore are untraceable by that method.

  Some methods of advertising will not accept anything dealing with guns, even the word hunting items could be prohibited in their adds, but by rewording and imaginative thinking, your add, you may overcome.  One eye catcher always is the listing of "Old Farm Items".

 

   Depending on where you live, (CITY) or (COUNTRY) you may also have selling requirements.  Also the quantity that you may have on display may be a factor.  You need to NOT portray yourself as a dealer (unless you have all the papers and are one and can do the background checks).  However if a widow was to put out a few of her husbands firearms, or the average citizen for that matter, I suspect not many Law Enforcement personnel would do much about it if you were discreet and some Anti-Gunner had made a complaint, even if you were legal in doing so.

  I for one, now being just a regular citizen, see no reason to not put out a few old firearms for sale, but suggest having them where you can keep a very close eye on them but not up front.  I also have a small "Bill of Sale" form that I make all of the buyers fill out.  This is for my protection if the gun shows up in a police investigation, and Federal Law says that I cannot sell, to a known Felon, Alcoholic, or Druggie.  I use this form if I buy, or sell a firearm, and if the person on the other end wants, I give can them a copy, therefore I have a record coming, or going.  CYA (Cover Your Ass).

 

   Early Birds :  This can get contentious.  On all well thought out sales you will see a posted time.  It seems that if you advertise well enough that there WILL be those that push the opening time.  They appear to want to be there and get first chance at the choice items before anyone else.  Some sellers are adamant about "NO EARLY BIRDS", I did see one add that said Early Birds pay a 50% premium, I would like to find out how that went.

 

   Observances Prior to the Sale :   For best results you really need to advertise.  Just because you reside along a well traveled highway does not mean you will have a good attendance with minimal visual roadside advertising.

 

  Yes, I think it also needs to be advertised in your local paper, as in current times, many people do not take the paper, (some buy one just for the weekend sales) but you are going to all the time and effort, don't rely only on a FaceBook notification.  And if you do add on FaceBook Yard/garage sale section, put many GOOD photos.  4 good semi-close up photos are way better than 6 wide angle shots.  For these online type advertisements, I see some prospective buyers ask if you have this or that, and the price or to save it for them.  Don't get caught in that situation, just say in your add that you do not have time running the sale and answer dumb questions.  So many people now days could not function without a cell phone in a pocket, well that does not pertain to everyone but those are rare.

   In your add give DATES, as I see many online adds that do not, and they do not pull the add after the sale is over.  This gets pretty bad for prospective buyers, not knowing if you are a week late.

   And in your advertisement give good directions.  It is best to give the physical address as most buyers will likely not be familiar with any road other than main ones.  Here is one that I could not even find, no matter how I changed the road designation, it was on FaceBook and listed the town, BUT???  And I could not find the add later to try to contact them on messenger.  "Sale June 4th, 5th 8:am, Off Cedarview turnoff, follow signs.  4894N 3000W Antiques, boating toys, rocking chairs tables, chairs, way too much to list."  I do not know those numbers at the end.  They are not GPS.  Obviously they knew where they lived, but were unable to convey that to the prospective buyers.

 

   You also need to have road signs (especially if you are off the beaten path).  One thing I have found DO NOT purchase the metal red on black metal signs. but go for the poster size yellow/chartreus and put LARGE bold letters on it that can be seen from a distance.  For the red/black signs, yard sale people are NOT accustomed to seeing this sign and it is virtually invisible to them, especially for those that are of the older generation or color blind.  Yet they can spot a yellow/chartreus sign a block away, probably because it does not blend in with the surroundings, but more so that they are synopsis with garage/yard sales.  And if the sign is paper, be sure it is attached securely and backed up enough so it does not fold over in the wind.

   AND do not simply put it on a box on the edge of the road.  It needs to be raised up high enough to distinguish it from garbage or election signs.  If you insist on these box signs along the road, BE SURE that the sign itself DOES NOT get torn loose and folded over on the box, where you just lost a lot of business.  Make up sandwich boards (which are readily movable) and put the signs on them.

 

     One instance, my sister found an item that I was looking for, called me informing me as to what she had found, but the directions she gave were WAY UP on Brockway road.  I drive past the two signs (that later proved to be on the shoulder of the road) and figured out maybe close to where this location might be and was driving slower on the second pass, watching closer before I found it.  

 

     Also if you hand make your own signs, once you think you are done, back off enough so that you simulate a vehicle driving by the road and they NEED to be able to READ the sign.  It is a lot different from 18" when you are drawing it than 20' driving by.  Make your letters HEAVY & BOLD, and not an artistic style.   Also remember not everyone has 20-20 vision.   Also use a very contrasting color, not a brown (cardboard) background with black letters.

 

Here, the older style, but it goes un-noticed Here the brightness alone is the eye catcher

 

 

  Another thing I have done, is that years ago I made a steel pipe frame holding a sign 24" X 60" plywood sign as seen in the header photo above.  This sign fame is mounted on an old car tire for weight and is on lawnmower wheels on one side so it can be easily moved.  The sign itself is separate and removable and is painted yellow with red letters (YARD SALE).  This has proved quite effective when set on the edge of our driveway.

 

  With the modern computer age, you are HANDICAPPING yourself if you don't use it for part of your advertising.  My estimation using this type of advertisement, that your attendance will be composed of 80% of the people coming in being drawn from a greater distance than just local traffic.

 

  Have old shopping bags or boxes to put the small stuff in for your customers.

 

  One thing that we tried and it worked quit well, was to come up with a pricing code which consisted of different colored stickers cheapest (50 cents) was a light color (yellow). The one dollar color was a (lime green), two dollars was (orange), five dollars was (red), and white was (as marked).  Basically this coding was, the darker the color the higher the price.  This method did require to have a coding sheet on each table.  It saved a lot of time and some people's writing is hard to read (the seller's).

 

   One that I recently went to, for price stickers, they used blue painters masking tape and the prices were from a black felt pen, the price was VERY hard to read.   This person did not think things out very well.   You need to make it easy for your potential customers.   

 

  If you have a child or grandchild, let them set up a lemonade stand.  But advise them to keep ice replenished in it.  And caution them to be generous with the amount they pour.  Fifty cents for 1/2 full of a medium paper cup does on a hot afternoon not teach them much.

  BUT REMEMBER, do not confuse a Yard Sale prices from the Estate Sale prices mentioned below.

 

 

Here, mostly Ladies stuff Here you see Men's stuff

 

 

   Observances From a Estate Sale :  Here we have something totally different.  In the above average Yard Sales, where the seller wanted to recoup some of their investments.  In an Estate Sale the sellers wants to get rid of what was left by a deceased spouse or relative.  They may not have any real attachment for what is on the table as the family will likely have already went through what was there.

 

  Here it is a totally different game.  Prices will generally be LOW, and bargaining can become the norm.  Also usually on the last day of the sale (possibly Sunday) many things could be 1/2 price or make an offer, as the objective is to get rid of it. 

 

    One that I attended, looking for the "Vintage Evinrude boat motor", they had done a internet search, found a motor close to the one they had, (but wrong model number).  Someone had not even bothered looked at their model number, and went to a visual ID, which was totally a different motor than they thought it was.  Not knowing the internal condition, I made an offer.   They countered, but I declined.  The next morning I took some tools and was going to do some testing on it if it was still there.  If everything was OK, I would pay their counter price offer.  When I got there, the lady recognized me and quickly said they would take my original offer.

 

    How about a Pre Estate sale?  I think we will be doing one of these as after my wife passed a way a few years ago and I remarried, This woman did not throw away much, (kept sentimental items and was sewer and knitted).  My shop is now so cluttered of her things that she has not looked at for a year.  Yes, I also have some items that also need to go, so why not a  Pre Estate sale?   And we are both over 80.  It might just create enough traffic to get rid of a lot of items.

 

   Observances From a Moving Sale :  Here we may have a combination of all the above, which may change dramatically from day one to day three.  But many times on the last day, they may offer what is left for free, just to save them from hauling it to the dump.

     Parking Revisited :  Adequate parking is essential,  If you or your family/neighbors are planning a sale, consider the location where you decide to have it very carefully.   If you are in a residential area that has covenants, or restrictions even more so.   Even if you have to rent something more centrally located, a grange hall or business or church parking lot may be beneficial. Exposure - Exposure - Exposure - Parking - Parking - Parking.

   I live on a main highway with a short driveway and a front lawn on one side and on the other a large mowed grass area between my garden and the highway.  The outer edges are a few fruit trees.  The last one we put on, a guy parked in this side parking area, and after he got done looking, backed up WAY MORE than needed, right into and broke off one of my young pear trees as seen below.  He hesitated, but drove off.  You can see it was alive at the time, but the hot weather afterwards surely dried up the leaves.

   Another guy backed out into my front yard to turn around.  Neither of these were justified as there was lots of room, just dumb SHITS who don't care as it was not theirs.   I wonder what they would do/say if I did it to them???

 

Here, you see what was left of my pear crop

 

    Recently we made a drive after church to a well advertised multi family Estate Sale.  It was not far out of town on a hill top development, and on a dead end street.   When we found it, the driveway was steep and probably 150 feet UP to the buildings, but the driveway was barricaded off.  The street went on DOWNHILL another 300 feet or so, and with no real turnaround.   The only parking available was along the side of this then uphill street.  Sorry, I just drove on home, we did not need to walk uphill for 300 to 400 feet.  So I will never know what I missed.

 

 

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Originated 08-11-2020, Last updated 07-04-2023
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