Cowlitz Summer Run Steelhead

Cowlitz Steelheading From
a Boat

Where? : In the water obviously, but you need to remember that Steelhead are different than salmon and tend to favor shallower water, (even 2' to 3') and usually nearer the banks. Even right in the brush and like most fish favor the slower/edges or softer seams of the current.

A larger fish will usually also be smarter, and will try to get into shallower water or near logs / outcroppings and snag the sinker, thereby breaking off your line if they get hooked.

Transported Fish : Since the dams on this river have no fish ladders, some excess Coho fish that return to the hatchery at the Barrier Dam are loaded into a tanker truck and transported above the Mayfield Dam and into the Tilton River near Morton or back into the Cowlitz above the Cowlitz falls dam. These could be both hatchery and "natural" fish, giving the sportsmen a chance to catch and keep a few.

Other excess (hatchery Coho) could be recycled downstream one time, to allow the sportsmen a chance to catch these surplus fish before they are donated to the food banks. When this is done, a hole in one of the gill covers will be punched with a paper hole punch to designate it is a recycled fish. Doing this only once, (sometimes even twice if a lot of fish are present) provides more fishing opportunity while still providing quality fish for the food bank.

Here the tanker truck is dumping some Steelhead at the Mission Bar boat launch
5-19-2011 to be recycled back upstream.

Method : The two most common methods of catching these will be "Side Drifting" and "Back Trolling". Side drifting will normally be using Roe, (cured salmon eggs) or sand shrimp. This will usually be done using spinning gear.

You can also find a likely area and anchor the boat, and use a similar set-up as back trolling, but instead of a diver, use a lead weight of from 3 to 8 oz. The length of the leader will be determined by the water turbidity. A 3' leader could be used in winter murky water, where a 6' leader when the water clears up.

You will not be fishing deep water for these fish, usually less than 5 or 6 feet deep and at the edge of a seam, or near shore.

Another thing that may not be common knowledge, is that those fishermen, (usually trout or steelhead) that use the small colored puff balls for added floatation to their lures, if after some exposure to water, they tend to soak up a small amount of water. This changes their floatation. If you simply spray WD-40 or dip them in a light inert oil like mineral oil, this puts a light protective coating on the balls, preserving their floatation, at least until you catch a fish or need to change baits.

Drifting : In using a boat, position it to the side of the desired drift away from the shore enough to still be able to cast right near shore, cast out and upstream at about a 45 degree angle toward the shore (to allow for any slack and therefore avoid hang ups at the start of the drift), which allows the bait to drift the same speed as the boat. This as described is called "side drifting".

If you have a good skipper who can keep the boat positioned, and the drift is favorable, you may be able to have a long drift without reeling in and re-casting. Other conditions may demand that you cast and slowly reel in. This method can be using a bait and small sinker ahead of the bait. Or you can put a float on the line at a predetermined distance from the lure (depending on the water depth), and again possibly just drift and/or reel in.

These fish will follow the bait if it is drifting in a natural situation, all the while eating on it. Seldom will they bite aggressively. Do not set the hook on first nibble, allow them to follow all the while mouthing the eggs/shrimp. Let them have the bait until they finally take it. Wait for the count of 10, or until the rod tip goes down before you set the hook. Hook size will vary depending on the time of the year. Number 2 to # 2/0 are the normal size except for the low clear water of the summer run, where you may have to go down to a #6, but a compromise is 1/0s.

When these fish are in the river, they will be about anywhere throughout the system. Fishing can be from the barrier dam down to Castle Rock. One good starting spot for beginners would be the I-5 launch. There is some good more calm drifts below there all the way down to Castle Rock, instead of upriver nearer the Barrier Dam launch.

Back Trolling : In Back Trolling, the method is to run upriver to the top of a run or maybe a hole with a longer shallower stretch below. This depth here can range from maybe 10' to even 3'.

Back Trolling is a method of setting your rods in rod holders and holding your boat position by pointing the boat upriver, and with a small trolling motor, controlling your downstream drift so the boat SLOWLY slips downstream. This allows (if you are in the seam) the bait to be presented in the fish's face until they decide to grab it.

One thing to remember is that if you are in a normal small sport boat (16' to 18'), the number of rods out will be governed by them being placed so that WHEN the boat swings in the current (or the skipper is rebaiting) that they all be out the same distance otherwise the short one will cross under the longer on out and you will be fighting tangles. When they are all out the same distance they all move in tandem (equally apart).

This method will be using casting type rods, and line counter reels are a blessing. otherwise you need to count pulls of line out or attach a short section of bobber stop material on the line at your designated distance.

Also when Back Trolling, you probably will want your reel's drag set considerably looser than if you were trolling for salmon. Here these fish, very often tend to follow the bait, mouth it, then possibly even move off with it. By moving off, this could be to the right or left OR even upriver alongside the boat, as if the lure had hung on the bottom. The theory is to set the drag low enough as to let them take it and get hooked before they know what is happening. You need to pick up the rod, reel in slack in the line and decide whether it is hung or you have a fish on. Then either adjust the drag to match the fish, OR thumb the spool as a secondary brake.

Anchoring : Here, the method is very similar to back trolling except you will try to be located stationary in a prime location, (like on the inside corner below a point, a small rock wing outcropping, or choke point), where the fish may be resting before moving farther upriver.

Rods : Here, one size does not fit all. For Side drifting, a spinning rod, 7' to 8' is sufficient. No need for 10' rods here when on a boat. As a matter of fact the longer rods in small boats are a hindrance in more ways than one. And here you do not need the longer rod to gain casting distance. Depending on the season and whether salmon would be legal to retain dictates the recommended line weight capacity of the rod. When the season and Steelhead are the prime target, a lighter 6# to 12# trout rod is lots of fun. Later in the season, then it may be better to choose a 12# to 17# or even a 20# rod.

Then depending on the lure you are using, like back trolling divers or plugs, the heavier rod is probably more preferred because of the steady diver/plug pull.

Reels : Here, large capacity reels are not needed as you are in a boat and if a nice fish is hooked, you can chase it. When side drifting, and using spinning outfits, again large reel capacity is really a hindrance, as you will be holding the rod all day and wearing out your casting muscles.

For back trolling, the old standby has been the Ambassador 5000 or 5500 models. Many others also fit this category, like The Shimano TR1000, or the Calcutta, Okuma low profile Coldwaters are also a good choice and it is a linecounter.

The PRIME consideration for any reel is to use a reel that has a GOOD SMOOTH drag.

Tackle : Line will be your choice, many still use monofilament while others opt for the braid. If mono, I would say early and summer runs where the water is clear, line weight could be 12# to 15#, later when salmon may be present upping it to 20# may be a good idea. Leaders may be about 5# less, which if you get snagged up, you will only loose hooks and a leader, as compared to diver or sinkers.

Here, the prime objective is to put the bait within 6" to 12" of the bottom, hence the divers or sinkers. Leader length for roe or shrimp may vary on water clarity. However the standard starting overall length seems to be between 4' and 6'. For roe, the standard rig tie is 2 hooks probably #1 or 1/0, tied close together with the upper knot being a egg loop. For shrimp the egg loop is normally not used, but simply use two 1/2 hitches around the tail and the leader. Also many will slide a small orange or pink colored pea sized soft float on the leader so it slides down just in front of the bait. This adds some attractant AND provide a small amount of buoyancy to slightly raise the bait up off the bottom.

Maybe, here is where I might explain a bit about these divers. They are hollow and float when at rest, but have a bill on front that digs into the water when in a current or by the boat's forward motion. When back trolling plugs, this plug's bill acts as a diver. The mainline is connected directly to the plug and usually with a quick detachable small snap. But for Back Trolling bait, the diver can be snapped directly to the mainline, OR snapped onto mainline, acting as a slider. It will slide down the line to a bead stop, being pulled by the current. Here if you get a bad hangup and break it off, the diver will float to the surface and you have a chance to recover it.

This method could use small plugs or sand shrimp behind a small (#10) Luhr Jensen jet diver or Mud Puppy. These divers will usually be painted black as to not spook any fish.

Depending on the water depth and flow, the distance out could be from 40' to 70'.

Detecting the Bite : Here, it will be different depending on the lure. When a fish takes a plug, it is usually not a question that you have a fish on. On the other hand when using bait, it can be very subtle, even to the point that the fish has picked up the bait and moving upstream with it, where your line goes slack just like you were hung up. Here it may be best if you see the rod tip bobble a couple of times that are different than the rest of the movements. Wait 10-15 seconds and start reeling, if you detect movement on the other hand, give the rod a slight twitch setting the hook. There may not be anything there, but you may also have just missed the only bite you will have that day.

When casting and retrieving floats over a bait, you will obviously be able to observe the float disappearing in the water.

Steelhead normally can become somewhat aerobatic. No matter what, keep line tension on the fish, never giving them any chance to throw the hook. Here you may have to adjust the reel's drag tension. You need the drag light enough to let them make an unexpected run (not breaking the leader), but yet tight enough so that you are the one in control. For the newbie, and without guidance from a more experienced fisherperson, it may be a learning curve where you loose a few fish before you figure out what is needed.

Spring Run : You may consider March thru May the time to be on the water for these fish. This type of fishing would be very similar to "Winter run" fishing as the water flow may be anywhere from 12,000 to 9,000 CFPS. This is when Tacoma Power at Riffe Lake will be dumping water, trying to guess how much snowpack is melting and how much rain is coming down. Then in about June, the flow will be lower as they are trying to fill Riffe Lake for the summer.

Bait is usually salmon roe. However sometimes Sand or Coon Shrimp are the ticket. They normally do not take a large bait as if you were fishing for salmon, so make your eggs about the size of a 25 cent piece and if using Sand Shrimp, pinch the head off and use only the tail. When using Coon Shrimp, they are used whole and the desired length is normally about 1 1/2" to maybe 2" long. They are hooked with the head down and with a couple of 1/2 hitches around the tail and onto the leader (to secure the tail) just above the 2nd hook. It's time to change this bait when the thicker head covering gets flared out leading to non normal rotating movement. The consensus is when curing these to also dye them a brilliant purpleish red.

Also from about mid April thru the end of May or early June, you will encounter Spring Chinook salmon here. So you may consider having rods and gear heavy enough to handle either specie.

Summer Run : Best time to fish the summer run fishery seems to traditionally start the end of June to the middle of July. Fish will usually be there mid-spring, but the for a high enough concentration of numbers to make the trip worthwhile this is about the timing. Some years there may be enough in the river to start fishing the middle of June. This fishery will continue on into the time that fall Chinook start showing, (October). Taking a Chinook on this lighter steelhead gear can be exciting. However watch the fishing regulations as some years Chinook season is closed.

Rods should be long and light, some custom made ones are made on a 9-10’ fly rod blank with spinning reel handles. However any 8'6" or 9' rod in the 6 to 12# or 8 to 17# class have caught a goodly number of these fish. Standard size trout spinning reels are used, as you are in a boat and can chase a large one if need be.

Line used is normally the hi visibility monofilament. This helps to tell where your line enters the water, especially helpful for older fishermen with somewhat failing eyesight. Many guides choose this Hi Visibility line which helps them watch their clients lines, which he usually will detect your bite before you do. Line weight will be 8#, with leader size to be 6#, or if used when Spring Chinook could be present, up to 12# or 15#. Leader length usually will be between 36” and 48”. Hooks can be #2 or #4.

Later when the water is low and gin clear, the lures may get smaller, could be puff balls which add a slight floatation and imitate bugs. Scent can be a beneficial attractant also.

Hooks in this clear water can be #6 Vision, bait will be salmon roe cluster with a size no larger than your thumb nail.

Tie a small black swivel between line and the leader, above this put a plastic sinker slider on the mainline. Sliders are made from the plastic tubing used for greenhouse watering. The sinker should slide on the mainline, and not be tied to the swivel. Sinkers will be ¼” lead about 1 1/8” long. The sinkers press lightly into the plastic slider. This allows you to change weights quickly if needed.

Steelhead when hooked probably will head for faster water and you may have to drift downriver a mile before you land a nice one. Chinook, if they are hooked using this gear will usually stay close and head for bottom of hole nearby.

A nice chrome 9# Cowlitz summer run Steelhead

Summer Run Recycled fish: In recent years after a lot of hassling with WDFW and Tacoma Power, the Advisory Committee has managed to get a small percentage of the surplus (returning Steelhead to the separator at the Cowlitz Salmon Hatchery) to be recycled downstream so the recreational fishers can get a second and sometimes a third shot at catching these fish before they deteriorate and are then sold for cat food. To identify these fish, the LH gill-plate is punched with a paper punch.

This recycled fish data are then used for hatchery management purposes by having the fisher leave a card in a box at the boat ramps that are close to the dumping area, and clear back up the the Barrier Dam. You can either fill out the card at the drop box, e-mail or call a furnished number on the card. It is important that if you do catch one of these marked fish to report it as the data is important since they know how many they recycled and how many were recovered, if your fish is not reported it will be counted in the 49% of unaccounted for fish. That % number is rather high and with no way to really account for if there was a trucking or hooking mortality, or they decided to go downstream to another river. OR there are very fat Eagles on the river. So PLEASE report your caught marked fish. Do not be belligerent and say am I in any way going to report my fish as it just may be one more that WDFW/TP uses for data to take more away from us. Exactly the opposite, a reported gill cover marked Steelhead here on the Cowlitz will actually let them know the program is working and you may just help keep it going.

This program usually starts about June 1 and runs thru August 15th.

Initially the concern was how much do they stray into the lower rivers/creeks. This concern was answered by installing floating weirs in 5 creeks in the lower Cowlitz. The data collected proved that there was very little straying.

Winter Run : Winter Steelhead will use basically the same set-up but usually with a small corky added to the eggs. The water covered may be different as the visibility will be less and the flow usually is more, which shifts the fish into a different pattern. Again, they will usually be at the edge of a seam, or behind a rock or log which affords them some protection of from the full force of the river.

This limit of winter Steelhead was taken by the author & his son on a Very COLD January day in 2005	How's this for a first time Steelheader January 2010 I think he is now addicted.

Here as in may things, about every fisherman has a few favorite twists in what and how they rig their tackle. So keep your eyes open, even ask questions, as not all of them are UNWILLING to share information.

Originated 06-08-01, Last updated 01-04-2020 *
Contact the author