In the chart below, the buoy 10 north south line (yellow) is very close to the LH edge of the picture.  Here the cream color areas are predominately Chinook, while the purple would be better areas later for Coho.

Here an inbound freighter is coming in the channel just upriver from the buoy 10, as the recreational boats are fishing

 

   Method of Fishing :  Most of this salmon fishing will be done trolling divers or using dropper sinker lines with five foot leaders to your favorite lure behind Fish Flashs, bait (herring or anchovy) or spinners, and run them out from 20 to 45 feet on your line counters, or figure out how many pulls that is (at 2' per pull).  The line-counter reels are a plus here.  The use of a Fish Flash no-drag flasher has now become widespread.   When using a Fish Flash, or it's equivalent behind a diver, some connect the diver directly to the Fish Flash, but I have found it works best for me to tie a short length of line (12" to 16") between the diver and the Fish Flash to allow it to get out of the diver’s turbulence so that the Flash will rotate properly.

 

   With the tide, current and close combat fishing at times, it is best to NOT run light weights or a long distance back.  Here, you want the lines almost directly under the boat (which also gives the skipper some maneuverability).  To accomplish this, the front fisherperson uses heavier sinker (possibly 16 to 20 oz.) and longer rods along with shorter distance out.  The next rod rearward will use a slightly lighter weight, and slightly shorter rod and a bit shorter distance out (like 2').  What this does is help prevent tangles in lines.  It also allows you to cover more fishable water.  The stern rods line can be farther out yet, and possibly a lighter sinker.  You also want to use heavier line/leader (40# leader at the minimum) to be able to bring those fish in a soon as possible, otherwise you may loose your fish to sea lions.

 

 

   The best fishing is in water between 12-40 feet deep.  It is best to have a GPS and a Fish finder, find the bait balls and stay on it.   In the mix, it is good if you locate bait on your depth finder and try to stay near it.  If you don't, watch the birds or follow the fishing guides.   If you have more than 1 rod, put different bait/lures on each rod, fish each rod at different pulls out (depths).  It just comes down to putting the lure down in the zone, or where the rod that is that hot rod's depth is set at.   Consider changing the other rods near that hot rod's depth once you dial into the zone.  If you make 2-3 passes in an area and you're not hitting fish, MOVE.    Don't be intimidated by the crowds, as some of the best fishing will be bumper boats all trolling in UNISON (like a larger dance floor).  If that gets on your nerves, then move away to find your own fish.   

 

   As the tide starts to come in, cooler ocean water will be pushing in against the warmer river water.  The fish will be moving upriver with that incoming salt water.  This ocean water salt water, being heavier will be under the freshwater.  This water could be pushing considerably faster than what you see on the surface.  The depth dividing line between the two waters is where you want your lure to be or below it.  You may have to turn up the sensitivity "gain" on your depth finder to be able to see this line.

 

   Now for something else to think about, these fish will not be swimming upstream, but will be headed downstream, but allowing the current to push them upstream.  Here is where you want to back troll, which will be starting low on the river, (B 10 or near), head the boat downriver but run your trolling motor just enough so you will be slipping upstream.  In doing this, your boat will be moving upriver slower than the fish will be carried by the current.  They then will have more time to see your lure than if you were whizzing by trolling WITH the current.

 

   Keep on the look-out for other close boats, wakes, and swells.   It's very easy to get excited when someone is fighting a fish, so do not rely on the other boat to be watching where they are going all the time if this is happening.   Watch what is happening in your boat, when you get a fish to the boat, make every effort to keep everyone from leaning to one side watching the fight.   Big mistake, as one big wake from a passing boat or swell, can knock someone over board.   It is a good idea to have one person watch for incoming boats or huge wakes/swells.  The person netting is usually the one that is more likely to fall overboard as they are focusing all their attention on netting the fish, possibly even leaning over too far to in order to scoop that fish in.  Always wear your PFDs here.

 

   The common signal to other fishermen that you are fighting a fish is for one person to stand up with the landing net also pointing up.  This usually is the sign for other boats to give you some room if you have a big fish on that is not cooperating.  On the other hand, there is no need to do this if the fish is small or has had it's mind changed and is coming in.  The other problem is that this flag waving many times will attract other fishermen who have not had the good luck as you, so you may soon have some new neighbors including seals/sea lions.

 

   For Chinook, you would normally want to have the lure NEAR the bottom.  If you try this with a diver, you run the chance of getting hung up and at least damaging the herring by dragging it on the bottom.  Here is the place to also use the estuary set up of using a sliding dropper about 16"-20" to a 10oz to12oz, cannonball sinker, which usually allows the lure to be just above the bottom.

   An Apex plug in chrome, blue prism/chrome or a Coyote spoon in cop car color (black and white), or glo in the dark green/white can also be very productive here using the diver.  The recent introduction of then Brads Super Cut Plug has also proven a very good lure, especially when loaded the cavity with squashed herring or anchovy, even using a scent paste helps.

 

   It is advised to NOT use a downrigger if you are fishing an area that is in the heavy concentration of boats because of potential tangles with other fishermen, especially when everyone is close.   Mooching a cut-plug herring is of course another viable method practiced by some but do not do in in the bumper boat parade as you will be moving at a different rate of speed as the others and could create a line tangle problem.

 

   Some of those who fish this area a lot have found that using spinners do very good (especially if the water is warmish).  Using a diver or a cannon-ball on a dropper, trolling large #5 to #7 spinner can be effective at times.   The larger size proves more productive for Chinook.   Different blade designs make a difference in how they spin.  The Colorado blade which is more rounded spins at a slower speed or current.  The Willow Leaf style blade needs a faster speed or current , while the Cascade style is a combination of the two and can be used in about any situation.

 

   Try different colors of spinner blades as what is doing fine one day may not be effective the next.  However the traditional white with a diagonal red lower end catches a lot of fish.  Recently just to do something different, one lure maker painted the back of a blade black.  The results were phenomenal.  Many times if you are not getting a hit, use a felt marker, paint a large black eye on the outside of the blade.  Also do not hesitate to add a pink or orange hoochie skirt to the rear of your spinner.

   Most of these spinners will come with a triple hook attached.  Some have a plastic sleeve over the hook's eye and the rear of the spinner shaft.  The theory here is to keep the hook straight.  However you may see some using single Siwash hooks or even doubles .

   Most accomplished spinner fishermen here use a heavy leader 6' long.  However since most commercial spinners are not made using a barrel swivel on the front, so these fishermen add a 6 bead chain swivel midpoint in their 6' leader.   Use a heavy leader, from 40# to 50# as these fish are not leader shy. 

 

   In the photo below, the 2nd from the left has a hole drilled in the rear of the blade, which adds air bubbles and extra noise.  All of the ones below were custom made.

 

   Late in the season, when Coho move upriver, the water temperature may be in the 63 degree plus range, they are seen in schools with your sonar, but have lockjaw for normal fishing methods, one thing to try is to use a lead jig like the Buzz Bombs or Point Wilson darts.  

    Shown below is the result in letting your line out to fast.

 

  Where to Fish :  This Buoy 10 fishery is is somewhat more akin to fishing the ocean than the up river fishing most people are used to.  The best advise for a newbie would to forget about fishing spots.  The fish will be where the bait fish are and the bait fish do move.  Hungry salmon aren't just going to be hanging out in 20' of water 200 yards west of the bridge at noon on a Friday just because that is where you caught them last year.  The salmon are going to be crashing big bait balls to fill up their belly's before that long journey up river.

   Don't waste a bunch of time fishing a "spot" if there isn't bait, move until you find bait.  As a general rule, find diving birds, rip seams, and/or bait, and you will find salmon.

 

   The boundaries for this fishery are illustrated by the yellow lines on both of the charts shown.  Fishing close to Buoy 10, sometimes called the "Firing Line" can be called "Combat Fishery", meaning the boats will be maneuvering, trolling/mooching in close proximity to each other, where some boat operators do not watch where they are going.  Charter boats seem to tend to squeeze the sport boats, with their rods almost touching the smaller boats.  Others boaters may seem to not be aware of what is going on around them, as when a big fish is being played within 20' of their boat.  This can be compared to a large dance with MOST of the boats all hopefully going the same large circle AND close to each other.  

 

   You will see some boats, when running back to their start position for another pass come so close to other boats (and rocking them, especially bad if they have a fish on) making things dangerous.  If they would have moved two boats to one side, everyone would have had room to spare.  Tunnel Vision.  Others will be trolling parallel with you and then when their stern is at your bow, cut in front of you as if they were a Kenworth tractor/trailer and bigger than you, and you have to put it in reverse ASAP or hit them.  They just keep looking forward as if they did nothing wrong.  For these I keep a Freon horn handy.  Some even will not give an inch when fighting a fish, (maybe running on a TR-1 auto pilot) even to the point of tangling lines, and then of course, it is your fault.

 

   Occasionally a blind (a Mr. I own the river) operator may want to troll across thru the trollers or a mooching dance floor, which may even get more than under the breath exclamations toward him.   It is not uncommon to look out and see 300+ boats in an area of 1/2 mile.   One thing, if anyone fell overboard, they would not be in the water over a few minutes.