My Other Ramblings

 

 

OK, you have stumbled onto my somewhat secret window.   Here, I may post info, or articles that I am working on, before being proofed and then moved to the my regular "LeeRoy's Ramblings" website.   I may also use this page for a storage area for templates, footer data, additions or photos to be used later, even just notes for future use so I don't forget, kind of like a catch-all page.

 

 

 

 

 

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Chinook salmon, Coho, estuary fishing, bay fishing, 

Willapa Bay Salmon Fishing   

 

 

 

 

Bait;  This can be as simple as a worm, or salmon egg, grasshopper etc.  As mentioned in the bank article, hook size could go up a size or two, and range from #4 to a #2.

 

 

 

 

 

Fish
 

 

 

 

 

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Copyright © 2017 LeeRoy Wisner  All Rights Reserved

 

Originated 01-03-2017, Last updated 01-02-2017
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  Bobber / Float Fishing 101

 

 

 

 

 

I snatched this photo off Facebook in 2016.  It was taken at Fort Borst Park in Centralia WA
I have not been able to find the photographer. If you know, or are them, please contact me so I can give credit
& add a bit of info to this photo.

 

 

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Copyright © 2017 LeeRoy Wisner  All Rights Reserved

 

Originated 05-18-2017, Last updated 05-18-2017
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johns AM fish

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Copyright © 2015 LeeRoy Wisner  All Rights Reserved

 

Originated 06-28-2015, Last updated 11-21-2016
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  Hearing Aids - Not The Cure
 

 

 

 

 For the average person with good hearing, hearing impairment can not even be anything they can conceive, other than a person being totally deaf, and then I believe they even can not begin to have a concept of how it effects that person effected.  Hearing aids are just that, an AID, not a real replacement for the real thing, or even a partial cure.  These aids have been improved considerably in recent years, but just ask anyone who wears one and I will bet they are not totally satisfied for one reason or the other.

 

Most aid wearers also learn to lip read.

 

There are many different aspects of hearing impairment, some in the high tones, while others lower.  Then to those impaired, when you get the younger person (female especially) who have a higher pitch tone, coupled with talking FAST, or someone from a foreign country with an accent, the hearing impaired person is just lost.  This person if in a meeting or room where a lot of people are talking, the background noise many times over-rides the aid's ability to help that person to separate things out.  They will not join in any conversations, if they do, it may just be they just nod their head in agreement to anything that they thought they heard.  They also dislike shopping or going through a drive through diner or even ordering at a restaurant because they can not distinguish clearly enough to understand.  They may just give up and say yes, then take what food was brought to them. 

 

Then even calling to make even a doctor's appointment is at times frustrating.  It also seems that many businesses hire the newest and cheapest recruit possible as a receptionist, which may even be a person from another country who has horrible English, (providing them to be compliant with government requirements) and talks very fast.  Again frustration, even to the point of asking to speak to their supervisor.   It would be nice if the boss occasionally called his/her own business to see what/how customers were exposed to. 

 

The Audiologist is the heart of keeping the person informed and adjusts the aid from time to time.  Some Audiologists understand completely and are very helpful, while others are lacking experience, but they fake it being just fresh out of Bar Tending school.  Then there are those impaired persons who are older or have work related hearing impairment, being on Labor & Industries Insurance funded aids, from which the Audiologist does not get reimbursed as much, therefore less time is spent with these customers.

 



 

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Copyright © 2014 LeeRoy Wisner  All Rights Reserved

 

Originated 12-12-2014, Last updated 12-12-2014
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Building & Installing a Radar Arch

 

 

 

 

 

 

Radar Arch ;  Well, you may even call this other names and it certainly will be used for other things, once you become acquainted with it.   A well designed unit will be an asset, blending into the size/style of your boat.  Plus it should not be so heavy that it changes the hull displacement with the boat at rest.  Therefore aluminum pipe/tubing becomes the more desirable material.  For the one we will be dealing with 1 1/2" 6064 annealed aluminum pipe was used for the main unit, with 3/4" being used for the hand rails.                

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

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Copyright © 2015 LeeRoy Wisner  All Rights Reserved

 

Originated 04-01-2015, Last updated 04-04-2015
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Boat Trailer Repairs
How Do I Remove the Boat?

 

 

 

 

 

un ;    


I chained my boat to a tree by the stern eyes. And slowly pulled forward leaving my 21' Willie Predator on my lawn.

Then to put it back on, backed up to the boat and winched it back on.
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I've tied the stern of my 20' Predator to a telephone pole a couple of times for a little trailer repair. I stacked 4 tires on rims side by side that I have laying around in the shop and put a piece of plywood on top of them. Don't think I needed the plywood but it did make the boat slide back on better Then just slowly drove away and put a tire up front so boat wouldn't hit the asphalt.

Worked great and was easy to crank back on. Keep boat tied and as you crank have somebody slowly back up.
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Hook the back of the boat with a line to a tree or another truck and pull the boat off the trailer just enough to have maybe a foot of boat off the bunks, but still have weight on the tongue. Now disconnect the ball hitch and pull away from your hitch. Now lower the tongue jack and crank down the trailer tongue. At the rear of the boat it should now be higher off the ground. You now block up the stern at three points, under the keel and outer edges. Raise the tongue with the jack back to height to hook up to your tow rig. If you look at the stern you should see it off the bunks in the rear. Just hook up to your tow rig and pull forward a few feet and put blocks under the keel as you pull forward. I would block up at least in three locations under the keel. As you pull the trailer away it leaves the boat only a few inches lower than trailer height and acceptable height for bottom painting. When you put the boat back on the trailer you winch it on while someone slowly backs the trailer at the same rate as your winching on the boat. Just remember to stop and touch up the blocking spots before its all the way on the trailer.
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With a boat that small it will be fairly easy.

As others have said pull it off and winch it back on.

I can only add that the winching back on goes easier and can be done with one person if you pull it off and only rollers of some kind.

I used a bunch of 48inch long 1.5in dia wooden dowels... They do something similar with giant round air bags for big ships at dry dock.
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This would be my first choice 2nd would be the tree and chain. The only thing I would add with the 2nd option would be bails of hay. It's cheep and a great safety measure. Did this once with a 17 Arima. Don't forget to tip up your wheel on depth finder.
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Copyright © 2015 LeeRoy Wisner  All Rights Reserved

 

Originated 01-23-2015, Last updated 02-13-2015
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Centered
Header Template

 

 

 

 

 
Template

 

 

 

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Copyright © 2011 LeeRoy Wisner  All Rights Reserved

 

Originated 12-03-2011, Last updated 12-03-2011
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  Sekiu Salmon Fishing

 

 

 

 

 

ures ;  The co

 

 

Sekiu docks on a calm day in September
 

 

 

 

Updated 04-05-13 *

 

Copyright © 2013 LeeRoy Wisner  All Rights Reserved

 

Originated 01-24-2013, Last updated 01-24-2013
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A year or so after her situation became defused, I was asked to look at her pistol as "the pushy thingy" went missing.  Finally when I got the gun a year after the first notice, WOW.  The cylinder release latch was what was missing.  RUST all over it to where it had to be disassembled in order to even open the cylinder, the cylinder was empty of cartridges AND BAD RUST was inside most of the chambers.  In order to get it to even begin to operate, most internal parts had to be removed and wire wheeled removing the rust, then oiled.  The barrel had so much lint and debris that you could not see any rifling, but after running a brush through it, large rust spots were obvious.   The whole gun had to be completely dismantled, cleaned, and the outside polished to remove the external rust and reblued.  I have no clue as to where she kept it in the house (like maybe a bathroom) or whether it was under the seat of her leaky car that was parked outside all winter.   If she was using it for protection, why was it empty?   In it's condition, even if it was loaded it would have been totally useless.   I'm not trying to run her down in any way, but it seems to me she had a false sense of security just because she owned it ???  And she is not a blonde.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



 

 

 

 

Varmint Hunting

 

 

 

 

 

ures ;  The co

 

 

 

Rifle Sight In 101

 

 

 FIREARMS INFORMATION

 

 

MARLIN Manufacturing Date Code

 

 

 FIREARMS INFORMATION

 

 

 

 

 

  Fishing Lure Colors ? 

 

 

 

 

 

Bait Cures ;  Brined

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

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Copyright © 2013 LeeRoy Wisner  All Rights Reserved

 

Originated 02-04-2013, Last updated 02-04-2013
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Savage / Stevens Model 311 Series Double Barrel Shotguns

 

 

 

Double Barrel Shotgun ;  Double barrels shotguns were "the gun" for a good many years before the repeaters came into being.

 

 

Tenite -- Tenite first appears in the 1940 Stevens/Springfield/Crescent-Davis illustrated price list on the Stevens No. 530M double. The No. 530 with a walnut stock had a dealer's price of $19.30 and a suggested retail price of $24.00. The No. 530M had a dealer's price of $18.20 and a suggested retail price of $22.75. For $3.25 extra either could be had with a non-selective single trigger. Offerings were the same for 1941 with prices up about $2 across the board.

Post WW-II the Tenite offerings expanded to include the Model 94 hammer single barrel, the now Stevens Model 311 double barrel and the Model 22-410 over & under. Also for 1948 the new Stevens Model 124 Cross Bolt Repeating 12-gauge Shotgun was introduced with the Tenite stock. Offerings were the same for Tenite stocked guns in 1949. By 1951 the only such stock still offered was on the Model 124 and the name Tenite wasn't mentioned, just "durable service-proven molded plastic." By the 1952 catalogue everything is walnut or walnut finished hardwood.

The various versions of the 20-gauge Fox Model B got 3-inch chambers in the 1964-65 time frame. The 12-gauges versions of the Fox B with double triggers got 3-inch chambers in 1973. From the catalogues it appears Savage never quite trusted their single trigger with 12-gauge 3-inch magnum recoil. I would imagine the Stevens No. 311s got 3-inch chambers about the same time as the Fox Model Bs. Someday I'll get the catalogues out and look.
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I have a Stevens 311A made in 1963 , 20 gauge, with 3 inch factory chambers. I think that it was first chambered for 3" in that year (12 gauge 3" came about 10 years later). Hope this helps.
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Hi all, new to the board, great source of info. Currently restoring a couple of Stevens 311s and found this post. The 311A 20 gauge I have was made in 1957, based on the "17I" in the oval at the front of the receiver base. (also info obtained from this site!) and is chambered for 3" shells. The 12 gauge 311A was made in 1951 and has 2 3/4" chambers.

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311a's were made beginning in 1949 I believe. Is there a circled letter on the receiver? "A" indicates 1949, "b" 1950, etc. I own a 5100, the 311's predecessor. They are a great, quality American made shotgun. Welcome to the board.

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The fact that it has no serial # indicates that it was made before 1968, when the Gun Control Act of 1968 required that all firearms have serial #s.

The model 311 started as the Springfield 5000 around 1920 with model designation changing to 5100 in 1931. Around 1940 it became the Stevens model 311. It was discontinued in 1989.

If it was manufactured between 1949 and 1968 there should be a small circle with a number and letter stamped between the trigger and the hinge pin. The letter reflects the year of manufacture.

A to N = 1949 - 1961
P = 1963
R to V = 1964 - 1968

Yours, with a circled "A", was probably made in, or very close to, 1949.

Value? Well, here we have a bit of a discrepancy. The Standard Catalog of Firearms values it at:

Model 311A - Hammerless Boxlock:

Exc. - $525
V.G. - $450

The Blue Book values it at:

Model 311 SxS (16 ga.):

98% - $295
95% - $240
90% - $220

Why the big difference? Your guess is as good as mine!
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The Stevens SxS's have a date code. It is a small circle (you need a magnifying glass) with a number followed by a letter inside the very small circle. A=1949 B=1950... V=1968 etc. O and Q were not used. Do not confuse this with the mfg marks which are much larger, or the serial #. If it has a serial # it is post 68'.
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1. Stevens used plain numbers from their first double in 1878 until 1913.

2. Letter prefixes crept in on the serial numbers used on both hammer and hammerless doubles from 1913 to 1939. They always signified a change in mechanical design or manufacturing process which resulted in an interesting variant.

3. From 1940 to 1948 no serial numbers were used on doubles, only capital letters, usually in groups of three or four, the letter(s) sometimes enclosed in a circle, along with an inspector’s symbol ( a heart , a diamond, a spade or some such ‘shape’, on the bottom of the frame behind the hinge pin.

4. From 1948 to 1968 the letter symbols under the frame were changed to a ‘Capital letter with a one or two digit number’ in a 1/4? circle. This was a date code which you will find illustrated in the Savage-Stevens-Fox pages of your Standard Catalog of Firearms.

5. From October 1968 to March 1988 Savage/Stevens/Fox B doubles are serial numbered in a completely new serial number range beginning at A000001. The six digit (always) numbers, stamped only on the left side of the frame, not on the barrels or fore end or on the wood, are preceded by capital letters from A to E. The letters do not correlate to production years. The letter prefix accompanied the Savage/Stevens/FoxB/Springfield serial number on every gun they made from 1968 on. Beginning about 1978 numbers 1 to 20 were also stamped on the three major components, frame, barrels and fore end iron, to enable the factory to keep 20 guns of like model together in a group for packing in the standard 20 gun shipping carton.

Yours is one of these. Since I am interested only in double guns I stopped looking for numbers on Savage’Stevens doubles after 1988 because that’s the year they shipped their last ‘Stevens Model 311'.

The highest number I have seen was on 20 gauge Stevens Model 311 Series H serial number E957971. The Savage branded imported doubles, over and unders or side by sides, are numbered differently. Each model is numbered in the range created by its manufacturer. As you probably have heard, Savage/Stevens’ production records on their older models were destroyed in a sprinkler accident about 35 years ago, according to officers of the company.

To calculate an approximate number of ‘Stevens Model 311s’ that were made from 1968 to 1988 you could do this math exercise. Since Savage used 5 letters (A to E), each on 999,999 guns, they must have made about 5 million guns. Perhaps 40% were doubles in the various Savage Brands and Private Brands. That makes 2 million doubles of which I estimate 80% were Stevens 311's. And that’s not counting production before 1968. No wonder the “311? in its various variations is the all time favorite American made double.

And think how many Stevens 311s ( and Stevens made doubles that looked like Stevens 311s but carried private brands) had already been produced in the years between 1940 (first year of the ‘true’ Stevens Model 311) and 1968, during which time they weren’t serial numbered at all! There must be at least 4 million Stevens Model 311s, in one form or another, out there!

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I have no idea, here is all I found, even called Stevens and this is what they sent me, Sorry...
J. Stevens and Company was formed in 1864 and used that name until 1886 when the name was changed to J. Stevens Arms and Tool Company. The plant was sold to New England Westinghouse in 1916 and used to produce military rifles for the US and the Soviet Union. In 1920, Savage purchased the facilities and manufactured firearms with the name J. Stevens Arms Company until about 1948. Guns produced after that date were marked with just "Stevens" until the name was discontinued by Savage in 1991. Many Stevens guns were not serialized, so they can only be "dated" to the period of production.

Savage Arms no longer answers questions about old Stevens guns.

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Savage SS /DB / OU shotgun date code

A 1949 B 1950 C 1951

D 1952 E 1953 F 1954

G 1955 H 1956 I 1957

J 1958 K 1959 L 1960

M 1961 N 1962 P 1963

R 1964 S 1965 T 1966

U 1967 V 1968 W 1969

X1970

"Collectors will find a date code stamped on every double-barrel shotgun in the Stevens brands produced between March 1949 and December 1968. Usually, it is behind the hinge pin or ahead of the trigger guard on the bottom of the frame. It will appear as a small circle containing a number and a letter. The letters correspond to the years shown in the following table. Significance of the numbers is not known."*

*From page 1101 of Ned Schwing's 2004 Standard Catalog of Firearms, 14th Edition, published by Krause Publications of Iola, WI.

I would like to add that I have found this circle, or oval, containing one or two numbers plus a single letter, just about anywhere and everywhere on the frame, but only on the outside of the frame, never inside. I have also found the circle or oval with letters and numbers on the barrel clusters, on the shot barrel or on the barrel assembly lug block. While the letter within the circle always match on factory matching barrel and frame, the numbers never match, or at least that has always been my experience. These Date Codes are also present on the Model 94 frames and barrels, andI am sure on many others.

The marks on the inside of the frame, where the lower barrel seats when closed, are what I would call assembly stampings, and match frame to barrel, found on underside of shot barrel near forend lug, and also sometimes found on the butt stock under the butt plate. ~EE




 

 

 

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Copyright © 2014 LeeRoy Wisner  All Rights Reserved

 

Originated 01-11-2014, Last updated 01-11-2014
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Below is a sample / prototype / test site for possible new CCA Washington website homepage

                                                                                                                                                                                             Coastal Conservation Association
WASHINGTON
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
   

 

This page updated 05-10-2012 ---- 11-27-2012 03:40 PM     

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

about 1969 at Westport
 

 

 

 

 

 

My current fishing boat