, Evinrude, OMC, outboard motor, outboard motor repair, 9.9, 15 hp, date/year of manufacture, water pump, carburetor, long shaft, 15 hp conversion, sailmaster
1984 - 1991 , (Information & Observations)
The photo above on the left is a 1984 with the one on the right being a 1986 model.
There seems to be a gap in production of the 6hp motors from 1979 until 1984. However there was a 4.5 and 7.5hp made from 1980-1983 which utilized the newer exhaust housing/lower unit, and the twist throttle unit used the cable type with a kill button on the throttle end as found on these later models . Essentially the 7.5hp 1980-1983 motor was utilized as the basis for newer 6 and 8hp motors. So any information of these 6 and 8hp motors would generally apply to those 7.5hp motors.
And one known 1983 6hp
Johnson made in Belgium that was actually a 7.5hp with a restrictor plate
between carburetor and the manifold. So it appears that you may encounter some
hybrids in this 1980-1983 era.
In 1984 (at least in the US) they came back out with a 6hp and also upped the 7.5 to an 8hp. Now somewhere in the mix, I have seen a 1983 8hp, which does not show on any of the lists, so possibly it was a LATE LATE 83, but with the 8hp parts of a 84. The only difference was that it was painted all white as compared to the gray lower sections of all the known 84s .
1992 saw another major change in the 6 and 8hp motors with a completely different rope starter unit that mounted over the flywheel.
was a 5hp in this series, which consisted of basically a 6hp. I have not
been able to identify exactly what made it a 5hp instead of the 6hp, unless it
had a slightly smaller intake manifold diameter or was actually a 6hp but sold
with a 5 decal to be politically correct in certain restricted areas.
However in all probability it may have just a slightly smaller main jet, cutting
the amount of fuel burned, lowering the RPM
General Observances : The factory did however retain the spindle spool starter system of the 66 -79 for these 1984-1991 models. These newer models are not crowded under the cowling and have lots of room there.
The only difference in the 6 and 8hp of these years appears to be the carburetor, intake manifold, reed valve plate assembly and the front part of the block to accommodate the larger reed valve unit on the 87 and newer motors. This being the case the I am not sure until I can tear both apart, but it may be that the carburetor will just have a larger main-jet.
utilize the familiar angled cowling joint used by the 9.9/15hp motors of the
same years. The 1984 model that I have has the whole lower section including the
cowling pan painted gray, with the top fiberglass cowling painted white.
appears to be no provision for electric start on these motors.
However the later ones after 1988 were possible to have a 12volt charging system
on them. These motors came
standard with the 15" shaft length, but could be had in a long 20" or even 25"
extra long shaft for sailboats.
have the thermostat on the upper rear of the head, held in by 3 bolts which is readily
I personally like the gray bottom paint as it hides the scuff marks and oil you normally get on these motors that are used as a fishing motor. They are not a show motor, but a working motor.
I also find that this series of motors are pretty well bullet-proof as most of the bugs that may have been encountered on the previous model have been eliminated, as like now using the cable throttle system, the electronic ignition works well and they were made before a lot of plastic was introduced in the manufacture of them (less prone to break).
These motors, like many series also
underwent minor changes during their production, like carburetors and ignition.
In the photo below you will see the front view of a 1984 6hp Johnson. Note the "Slow Speed Adjustment" "Lean / Rich" knob at the center top of the front panel. This knob is the carburetor idle adjustment knob. Obviously the handle on the right operates the manual rope starter and the knob on the left is the choke. The two pronged coupler on the lower right is the fuel line connector. The knob at the lower left on the transom mount is for the tilt lock.
|Here is the front view of a 1984 6hp||Here the HP designation|
Year of Manufacture : This is important in any repair, for obvious reasons. Prior to 1979, Johnson used the last 2 digits of the year in the model number. Here is a LINK to help you determine any of the Johnsons. And here is the LINK for the Evinrudes. For those of you readers outside of the United States, here is another LINK that may better help with your motors.
After 1979, OMC's
manufacturing year code, which included Evinrude, is the word "INTRODUCES",
with each letter
equating to a number ie:
etc. as illustrated below.
As before, the last 3 letters are what you are looking
for. Then in this case, disregard the last one, as it pertains only to a model
revision that only on specific cases may be revalent to a marine repairman if
problems arise. A code of
would equate to Johnson,
R rope start,15"
(short shaft as no code letter here),
could be a model revision, so this motor would probably be made in the later part of
the year. You may encounter a code of something similar to
This L would
have long a 20" long shaft. For more detailed
information on worldwide production,
Using this code system, if the motor was sold as an Evinrude, then the first letter would have been an E instead of the J for Johnson. Then you can encounter motors made in or for other countries, which will have some added letters as mentioned later in this article.
There should be the model and serial number on riveted on 1” X 2” aluminum ID plate on the LH side of the transom mount bracket (looking forward). Sometimes this ID plate can get removed. If this happens, you can still usually tell which motor it is by looking at the 25 cent size soft plug in the upper rear RH side of the block. The model & year are stamped in this soft plug also but probably only up to 1979. It is interesting to also note that the 6 hp uses the same block as the 8hp, so you could see either hp with the same 6R78M numbers here as the 8hp has. You may find that the plug numbers do not match any of the codes, as the factory changed things as time went on.
internet link to a marine parts seller
that has exploded views as shown below in this article. From
this business, you can identify the numbered parts ad purchase parts online from
To get to the electronic
ignition which are under the flywheel, you will need to pull the flywheel off
the tapered shaft of the crankshaft. Removal of this nut needs a 3/4"
wrench. If it is so tight that you can not loosen it normally, then try to
tap the wrench with a medium hammer to jar the nut loose initially. If
that does not work then you will have to resort to a air impact gun.
Most times if you just
loosen the flywheel nut a few threads, (leaving it about even or slightly above the shaft's
threads) then hold onto the flywheel by wrapping your arm around it and lift up enough
to put a lot of strain on (almost holding the motor upright) then rap the nut HARD
with a HEAVY brass mallet, the flywheel should pop off the crankshaft spline.
The reason for the brass hammer is so it does not damage the nut or shaft
threads as much. You could get by with a regular hammer if you are careful. One
hard rap is better than a dozen love taps.
If this does not pop
the flywheel loose, then you will have to resort to a flywheel puller as shown
in use below. In using these, you remove the flywheel nut first. These usually have 4 slots milled in the top flange to
accommodate the bolts to be threaded into corresponding threaded holes in the
top of the flywheel. Here we will be using only 3 that are spaced evenly.
This puller could be also use if only 2 opposing holes were there. The
large bolt in top is threaded into the puller boss. In use you thread the
3 smaller bolts into the flywheel so that they will allow the puller to set
evenly on top. You then tighten the large bolt into the puller, which puts
pressure on the crankshaft end, pulling the flywheel up. If it comes
really tight, then with the large bolt's pressure on the crankshaft, rap the
large bolt head with a hammer as before, which usually will help and pop it
This flywheel is located in the proper position on the crankshaft by a 1/2 round woodruff key. This proper position is critical as to the timing when the CDI ignition spark fires the spark plugs. If this key gets damaged or partly sheared, the motor will not run well, if even start.
|Home made flywheel puller in position on a 6 or 8hp|
If you have to work on the rope starter of these motors, this flywheel is easier to remove than trying to jockey the starter removal around under it.
Electronics : And these newer motors used the newer Capacitor Discharge Ignition (CDI) system that uses a power pack as shown in the photo below on the left. On the RH photo are shown the spark plugs, individual coils and the throttle cable attachment to the timing plate.
From observing the parts list, these motors from 1989 came set up with a UFI (Under Flywheel Ignition) eliminating the external power-pack. They also had a AC or DC electrical outlet. The AC would have been for sale in Europe, while the 12 volt DC by being run thru a regular rectifier for battery charging in the US. There however was no provisions for a electric starter.
|Timing plate with electronic coil & pickup sensor for a prior to 1989 motor|
Powerhead : The photos below give you a visual idea of what the powerhead looks like under the cowling. You will notice in the LH photo, that it retains the spool type starter system and has the electronic ignition coil/powerpack. In the RH photo the cable that comes from under the carburetor and over the block behind the flywheel is the throttle cable that is attached to the timing plate arm as seen in the LH photo. And the thermostat is on the top of the head. The carburetor is under the black plastic breather box.
Spark Plugs :
Spark plugs for these motors need to be 14mm threads with a
1/2" reach. They
REQUIRE this thread length at 1/2".
By this the 1/2" reach is measured from the base of the
threads to the end of the electrode and you will probably only have 3/8" of
threads. They will have a 13/16"hex body.
The plugs recommended here will fit the right "reach"
length. If you try to put anything longer in, they will reach
too far and possibly hit the top of the piston.
Most of the OMC
models, at least from 1983
will have the tape in the spark plug wire recommending Champion L77J4 plug which would be the corresponding conventional single electrode Champion plug. You now may have to use L77JC4,
or it's newer replacement #821 or the #821M for marine use. If you can't
get the "M" series, don't worry, as it is probably just the
outer metal coating that may be more resistant to salt air. If you are using the motor to run to the fishing area and stop to fish or troll
slowly for extended periods of time, these plugs are probably the better choice
as they tend to not foul as bad as the air gap plugs do. So, use the above
information as to your usage to determine the plug you need, NOT necessarily the
recommended one on the motor.
You may find a recommended plug of QL77J4, this is the same plug as above but with a resistor or sometimes called a radio noise suppressor plug. this one would be recommended of you are running a sonar/depthfinder or VHF radio.
Fuel Pump : These fuel pumps are pretty universal, the same small square one fitting most all these small motors up to 40 hp until about 1987. They were bolted onto the side of the block with 2 screws and the center hole was the suction/vacuum source into the crankcase. Since these motors used only a rope starter, the standard fuel pumps would be the small square version up until the 1987 transition. For a link to the rebuild procedure for this older small square fuel pump CLICK HERE.
|Here is the early style fuel pump|
The 1987 factory parts lists show "early" fuel pumps and "late" fuel pumps. It appears that this "late style" was ONLY used the last part of 1987 through 1990 (as seen in the photo below) which shows the late larger fuel pump mounted of the left side of the motor using a tube connected around the rear and under the block from the original fuel pump mounting location on the right side. For a link to the later larger fuel pump that came into being about mid 1987 CLICK HERE.
|Here is the later large style fuel pump|
Fuel Filter :
These series of motors utilized a
filter screen on the intake of the fuel pump. This pump also included a fuel filter screen, as
seen in the photo below the black plastic inlet is secured by a
single center screw. By removing this screw, this fuel inlet cover
can be removed, UNDER and pressed into the underside is a fine stainless
steel filter screen. Also is a Neoprene gasket just the shape of
this cover. The cover and gasket have 4 scallops corresponding to
the 4 fuel pump bolts. If this fuel inlet needs to be rotated for
better fuel line alignment, it can be rotated 4 different 90 degree
If you suspect a fuel problem, you can check the
fuel pump by being able to suck, but not blow into the outlet, blow but not suck
out of the inlet.
For you owners of 1987
motors, you will have to look at your own individual fuel pump to decide which
it is, as I do not have data relating to serial numbers and collation of
which was used during the transition era, but from the photo above the
large center screw holding the fuel pump cover on, under it will be a filter
These motors use the
single fuel line and the standard OMC quick fuel line couplers.
For those of you unfamiliar with small outboard
motor repair, to remove this carburetor for the older metal topped carbs, unscrew the three top bolts holding
down the top plastic silencer/breather cover (29) in the illustration below.
The "Rich/Lean" idle knob can be pulled straight forward and off it's splined
shaft. Make a mental picture of which way the indicator
pointer is pointing so you can re-install it the same.
Then unscrew the retainer screw holding on the choke knob
(outside front of panel) and remove this knob. The rear of this
plastic choke rod connects to the carburetor choke arm by a small headed pin.
On some motors you may find the pin's head either on the outside of the
connector or inside. Remove this unthreaded pin. Now you can
withdraw the choke rod rearward and through it's hole in the lower plastic body
(#28). From there, the lower breather body can be lifted up and away
from the carburetor.
There should also be a foam rubber seal (#26) that may be
sticking the breather to the carburetor, if so, a bit of wriggling of the
breather body should dislodge it.
The carburetor itself is held onto the intake manifold by two
1/4" SAE nuts, one on each side (#33) (which uses a 7/16" wrench).
The carburetors used on
these motors varied with the year of manufacture. The early metal top ones
(1984-1985 are rather simple
units and quite reliable with a fixed main jet, otherwise called the "High Speed Orifice Plug" #24.
The hole size for the 6hp is #35 and for the 8hp is #36. These numbers
relate to drill bit sizes. These early models have a metal bottom
float bowl, while the later ones can have a plastic bowl.
The slow speed idle jet screw (#15 in the
illustration below) has many small spline serrations on the outer end that mate
with splines in the hard rubber knob. The placement of this knob on the
front cowling makes for only 180 degrees of rotation. In doing any fine
adjustments after final assembly on the motor, if you can not get the knob to
rotate as far one way or the other to get a smooth idle, pull the knob straight
forward and off the shaft, rotate it 180 degrees so you get a better chance to
tune the motor. Then once I get this "sweet spot", I like to pull it
off again and position the pointer on the knob straight down, this gives me s
then known return position and about 90 degrees of movement either way if my
fuel ratio changes.
The normal number of turns out from lightly bottomed out for the low speed (idle jet) #15 is 1 1/2 turns as a start setting. My motor likes 1 1/4 turns out.
|Shown below is the carburetor & breather for a 1984 & 1985|
1985 metal top carburetor with butterfly choke & metal fuel bowl
The later carburetors used a plastic top. The early with these plastic tops still utilized the front mounted idle mixture screw. Then about 1988 or so this screw hole was plugged and a rear starboard side adjustment screw was used. These plastic topped ones used a internal box like collector that the main-jet was screwed into. This system appears to help by separating to some degree any small debris from being sucked into the main-jet.
|The late intermediate style plastic top carburetor with side idle adjustment. These also used a plastic bottom fuel bowl.|
Note in the photo below that the idle adjustment screw is moved to the rear side and the front hole is plugged plus that it has no choke as it uses the fuel primer system as indicated by the lower fuel line fitting which is the inlet for a choke/fuel primer as mentioned below.
|Here is a 1989 8hp carburetor|
You may encounter a carburetor that has no rear idle needle, and the adjustment needle is on the front of the plastic top, pretty much as seen in the photo above. If this is the case to adjust the idle, it may be best to drill a 3/8" hole in the front cover and align it with that needle screw head so you can adjust it while running. However you need to remove the air breather box. This cover is a later conversion unit # 036342.
To remove the
carburetor from these motors, you will need to remove the breather box cover,
and depending on the carburetor
(3 screws) then 2 more screws that hold the bottom of the box to
the top of the carburetor. Also the choke rod or primer rod needs to be
removed. The choke is accomplished by first removing the small Neoprene O-Ring that acts as a
retainer on the outer end of the choke retainer pin. Pull the pin and
then push the rod in and remove it from the rear of the front panel. The
primer type requires removal of a small screw that connects the primer from
the pull rod.
Also the starter spool will have to be partially removed. Remove the two top bolts (using a 5/16" box wrench) from the recoil starter spool mounting plate. Very carefully pull the complete starter to one side, BUT just so far that do not pull the recoil spring out of the base. You have to remove the starter to access the LH carburetor mounting nut and remove that nut. Tip it forward to give clearance for the 7/16" open end wrench to access the RH facing rear carburetor retainer nut. Remove the carb cam roller pivot screw and rotate the roller unit off the linkage rod. Remove the RH carburetor nut, slide the carburetor forward off mounting studs and then remove the inlet fuel line.
You can then remove the bottom bowl, the float pivot shaft and lift off the float assembly which includes the inlet needle. Place all parts so you can easily identify them for reassembly. You can then unscrew the brass main jet and or idle jets. If you have the older metal topped carburetor, it may be best not to even try to remove the slotted inner brass idle tube.
On my 1984 6hp the inner (rear) carburetor
throat diameter is .810" with the mating hole in the intake manifold
being only .612". This hole in the manifold is not cast but machined
not true with the carburetor's mating hole, but slightly lower by about 1/8"
or the top of the hole even with the top of the carb mounting studs.
Possibly one difference in the 8hp is this manifold diameter is larger.
In re-assembling any carburetor, IF it has a metal tag under one of the bowl screws, remember to put this back as the numbers on this tag may be critical if you ever need a repair kit.
Air breather or air box as they are usually called by the manufacturer on this motor is rather unique in that this motor appears to be somewhat semi-super charged. By this, I mean the actual breather intake is mounted very close to the flywheel ring gear starter teeth. In operation the rotation of the flywheel forces air from these teeth into the carburetor air box.
On these plastic topped carburetors, there is a slow speed stop adjustment screw (#31 in the illustration above) on the port side about the middle. This just screw just adjusts the throttle shaft butterfly as a low speed setting. It does not fine tune the idle jet (#15 in the illustration above) which is either on the center front of the plastic top or on the rear starboard side (depending on the year of manufacture). You may have to adjust each individually, but in synchronization to get a good low trolling speed.
Choke / Fuel Primer :
These motors used 2
types of choking systems. The 1984 and 1985 used the conventional
butterfly choke. 1986 thru 1989 used a combo choke/fuel primer system.
They reverted back to the conventional choke system in 1990,
A guess is that when
these primer chokes work, everything is fine, but as they age, weird things start
happening and if there is any fuel contamination, this is a logical location
for it to collect. Actually it was not a
choke as we know it, but merely a system that injects a small amount of
directly into the carburetor throat, or intake manifold (depending on the
This primer system
used a knob similar to and in the same location as the butterfly choke knob
but in use, this choke knob is actually a
dual function choke and primer system. As you pull the knob all the
way out it is injecting fuel into the intake (it's like a syringe
and you can feel the tension as it's squirting the fuel into the carburetor)
this is the primer function. When you release the knob it should
go back a little over 1/2 of the way in by it's self with the red ring at the base of the
shaft still being visible, this is the choke position. After the motor
has warmed up a bit, you have to push the knob in all the way
which is the running position.
|Fuel Primer unit exploded view diagram||Fuel Primer symbol decal on front of cowling|
If your motor has this fuel primer system and you are having problems where it seems that your motor is starving for fuel, or runs better with the breather off, and you are beating your head against the wall trying to figure out what is wrong, look at this type a primer unit. There is a distinct possibility that if the internal O-Rings are worn AND/OR the plunger is not fully retracted, you may be getting a air leak into the fuel system. Or it may not be seating when pushed back in, thereby could be allowing extra fuel into the carburetor, flooding it out.
Fuel / Oil Mix :
The formula shown below will be on all modern 2 cycle oil sold
in the last 30 years or so. On most all of the pints and quart plastic
TWC-3 oils there will be a narrow clear vertical
window on the edge of the bottles. On the sides of this window will have
numbers representing Ounces and Milliliters for other parts of the world.
Or you can purchase special measuring containers showing different ratios and
the amount of ounces needed.
If your motor is to where you have to mix the oil,
you need to know how much gasoline you will be needing, add the oil before you
fill the fuel tank so that the oil mixes better that just dumping it in after
you fuel up. However if that is not possible, guess, then add a majority of
what you think it will take, fuel up and then add the rest matching the amount of
gasoline you took on. If you are using portable fuel thanks, before hand,
when you fill it, add 1 gallon at a time, use a clean 3/8" or 1/2" dowel, mark
the dowel at each gallon and use it as a measuring stick. This way you can
refill a partly full tank with the known amount of oil.
A quart has 32 ounces of oil in it. So for a portable 3 gallon tank normally used on these smaller motors, to fill it using the 50:1 ratio would take 8 ounces, (1/2 pint) or 1/4 of the quart.
FUEL MIXING TABLE
|Gallons of Gasoline||
Gasoline to Oil Ratio
Ounces of Oil to be Added
The official OMC fuel/oil mix for most outboard motors in this year ranges has for years been 50:1. This means 50 parts of regular gasoline to 1 part of outboard motor oil. Remember that this was before unleaded gasoline or even possibly an octane rating that was listed at the pumps. Now the recommended fuel is 87 octane gasoline. Or before the outboard industry came up with any TWC oil, much less the latest which is TWC-3 outboard motor oil. You probably will not see much of the older TWC-2 oil out there anymore. You can spend your money and purchase OMC oil for about $6.50 a quart, or buy a name brand quart for $2.79. Sure the manufacturers want you to buy their oil, and for a new motor under warranty, it may be advisable to do so. But the consensus from many experienced boaters is to use any good brand of oil, as long as it has the TWC-3 rating, it meets or exceeds the manufacturers specifications. The TWC-3 represents, Two cycle, Water Cooled, type 3 formula. The formula 3 has decarbonizing additives designed to be more compatible with the newer non-leaded fuel.
So from the above information, you can see that fuel and oils have changed dramatically since these motors were first brought out in 1974. In this instance, times have changed for the good, as we now have a better gasoline and way better outboard oils.
Fuel/oil mix on all the OMC motors that have needle roller bearings is 50-1 of TCW-3 standard outboard oil. However I
have found that since I troll much of the time, other than getting there
and back, I like to use a mix of 75-1 but of a SYNTHETIC blend oil instead
of the standard oil. This gives me at least the same or better motor lubrication, plus
it gives me less smoke at a troll and the spark plugs last longer before
Recoil Starter :
The recoil starter uses
a rope type spool system that works very much like an automotive type starter
unit, only manually operated.
|Port side view of the spool type starter on a 1984|
To replace the rope, you should first remove the spark plug wires for safety. The following was taken from a 1971 service manual but this later motor appears to use the same starter unit. (1) Pull the rope out as far as you can, then allow it to retract less than one revolution until the rope end of the spool faces the port side of the motor. Lock the starter in this position by lifting the starter pinion gear upward to engage the flywheel ring gear, then slide the slightly spread handles of a pair of pliers under the gear, holding the gear upwards and into the flywheel gears. (2) remove the starter rope handle. (3) remove the rope from the spool. (4) Replace with a new rope, which needs to be 56 1/4" long, & burn the ends with match for about 1/2" to keep them from unraveling and to be stiff so they will hold in the spool or anchor. Thread the rope thru the slot in the spool as it came out of. (5) Thread the rope thru the motor cover then install the handle. (6) Hold the starter rope handle to keep it from rewinding too rapidly, remove the pliers then allow the rope to rewind normally.
To remove the
starter unit from the power head, (1) pull the starter handle and form a
knot in the rope to prevent the rope to recoil while removing the
handle. Remove the handle. (2) remove the rope.
Hold the starter spool and slowly allow the starter main spring to
unwind completely. Remove both the bearing head screws along
with the front
spring retainer plate screw, allowing the plate to drop enough to
release the starter spring. Lift the starter unit up and away from
the powerhead. (3) remove everything, clean and inspect for wear.
To reassemble the cleaned starter unit, (1) place the upper bushing and starter head with the pinion gear spring onto the spool. (2) Insert the spring retainer in the spool. Align the slot in the gear with holes in the spool and spring retainer. Insert the roll pin with its split seam in a horizontal position to avoid dragging against the slot in the pinion gear. (3) DO NOT oil the gear or spool, this will attract dirt, causing pinion to bind on spool. (4) Insert the spring into the bottom of the spool, turn to engage with the slot of the spring retainer.
To replace the starter unit to the powerhead, (1) Place the bushing in the spring retainer plate. (2) Twist the spring to lock the inner spring onto the spring carrier. Pull the end of the outer spring out of the spool and hook it onto the retainer. (3) Place the guide in the starter plate. Insert the spring hook into the retainer plate slot. (NOTE if the spring hook has broken off, you can re-bend the end). Raise the retainer plate to hold the spring. Install the front retainer plate screw and tighten the rear screw. remove the spring from the spring retainer. Install the starter assembly to the intake manifold. (4) Place a heavy duty screwdriver or a brace with a screwdriver bit in the slot in the top of the starter spool shaft. Wind the main spring 16 1/2 turns counterclockwise. Rope anchor hole in the spool should face to the port side of the powerhead. Raise the pinion gear to engage the flywheel and lock it in position with pliers. (5) Install the rope as described in the rope replacement paragraph.
|Exploded view of the 6 / 8 hp starter unit.|
Upon re-assembly where you bolt down the upper housing plate #12, the rope guide #14 rests in a shallow hole in this upper plate. It has to go into the hole as you tighten the 2 attachment bolts, otherwise you may break this plastic plate. At the same time the plate has to go under the flywheel with minimal clearance. You can not really see the hole, so this may take a bit of trial and error.
Neutral Safety Switch : These motors utilized a system built into the starter using a cam on/near the throttle timing plate cam to activate the lockout dog. In the illustration above the top #10 dog rides on the aforementioned cam and allows the lower #10 dog to engage notches in the starter hub directly under the top plate.
Some fishermen prefer not to have this feature on small trolling motors, so they
remove it. For this model remove both #10 dogs along with the spring #9,
washer #8 and the retainer clip #11.
Reed Valves : These are a pretty simple and proven design. This plate mounts between the intake manifold and the block. In the photo below, the brass Vees are not the reeds themselves, but stoppers so the reeds do not get over bent and then break off. Also in the photo below you see 2 reeds per side for the 6hp and the early 8hp models. The later 8hp used basically the same but it has 3 reeds per side from 1988 on until the end of this series.
|Reed valve plate for a 6hp & 8hp from 1984 to 1987|
Cable Type Throttle Linkage : These 6 and 8 hp motors 1984 and later, used a push/pull cable throttle linkage system. The motor side of this throttle cable goes from the mounting bracket on the port side (LH facing forward) into the lower pan and up under the carburetor, around the opposite side and up to the rear top of the block and thermostat housing. At the thermostat housing, the end of the outer cable has a threaded end into an female threaded plastic body that is attached to the thermostat housing by a bolt. Adjustment in the throttle positioning is accomplished by unbolting and screwing the outer plastic either in or out if you want to readjust the indicator pointer to the speed letters.
twist handle seems hard to twist or to not want to move, the cable may be dry and binding inside,
or the timing plate may also be dry and dragging. To test this, removing
the end of the cable at the timing plate, now see if the handle will now
twist. If not, then the problem is in the cable. You may be able to
remove the cable, then get some penetrating oil in to lubricate it.
To disassemble this handle unit, you will notice two small 3/16" round holes near the rear at 180 degrees from each other top and on the bottom. You need to use a couple of punches, depress both of these at the same time, while pulling the handle off front-wise. A helper can be useful in this instance. The twist grip slides off the end, but will not UNLESS you screw in the slow speed ring all the way until it disengages allowing the kill switch to become unattached from the handle system (remember there are two wires to this kill switch). You can pull it forward just enough slack to remove the twist grip handle without cutting the kill switch wires. Inside this plastic handle is a dual rotating cam slot which a cross-pin enters into spacers and rollers which is in turn attached into the cable end. When disassembling these be careful to not loose this pin, as it may drop out unknowingly.
After much usage the embossed Slow-Start-Fast speed indicators on the handle may get worn, however usually the start position is on top. The start raised rib on the twist handle is usually aligned with what may have been the START position on the handle. Or, replacements are still available (slightly different symbol design however) #0327944 Throttle Control plate and sells for $20.99. OR do the Red-Neck version as seen below. This method could be used for many other motors other than just this one.
|Here a new labeling was computer generated, printed & then covered with clear shipping tape to attach it to the original obliterated speed indicators|
When twisting the handle, the cable moves in or out, controlling the timing plate and carburetor cam.
The photo below shows a 1984 with a multi -function idle/kill button on the end of the twist knob. This style handle is activated by a internal cable from the handle to the carburetor. Inside the outer rotating knob, which is a low speed adjustment, is also a push button kill button. This rotating button/end knob when used for an low speed adjustment does not have any carburetor adjustment, but is used mostly by trolling fishermen who want a preset low speed other than having to each time they twist the handle to any other position, and want to go back to their preset slow position. In essence this is just a fine tuned low speed setting. The knob can be turned in or out. Out will usually come to a stop after a few turns, where in, once it has passed the few threads on the large inner section of this knob, will just keep rotating, but will do nothing because it has simply ran out of threads. If you can not get it to adjust, the cable to the linkage to the timing plate by unbolting it there and screwing the outer plastic either in or out if you want to readjust the indicator pointer to the speed letters. This can become frustrating.
Over the years the rubber kill button on the end will become hardened and may not function as designed. And if the slow speed ring is turned all the was in, it may even hold the kill button in, shorting out the ignition, not allowing the motor to start. This kill switch has been discontinued, but a conversion kit is available "0392968 — STOP SWITCH ASSY. Unavailable, replaced by 0398744 but also Discontinued. Replaced by 0583975 - Idle Stop Switch Kit $143.99, discounted price from some dealers $90.70". This kit must be from some other model that seems to fit.
OR you can try to rejuvenate this rubber knob if it is still intact. DO NOT try to remove the metal inner stop contact. One method to rejuvenate the hard rubber is to soak it in Silicone for a few days. My method was to use some silicone waterproofing spray (that I could never get to perform right anyway), use a quart Zip-lock baggie and spray enough of this in to allow it to soak (both in and out) for a few days. Leave it in until it becomes pliable again so the inner metal contact of the button will be pushed forward and away from the contacts.
To get this button off, once you get this rubber speed twist grip off, the kill button is buried inside the plastic slow speed knob, with just the outer end of the kill button sticking out. Once you have the twist grip pulled off the front of the tiller handle, the kill button will be attached to the switch behind it with the 2 black wires leading back into the tiller handle and back under the powerhead. Look closely and rearward from the front of the kill button there will be a joint between the button and the switch body about 1 1/16" back. The button is slid over a slight ridge and retained on this ridge by snapping over it, the button is glued at this joint to waterproof it. With a strong knife, cut down into this glue until a you hit the plastic body. Cut all the way around. Then pry the button forward off the switch with a small screwdriver.
|To disassemble, push in on the 2 plungers simultaneously (top & bottom) & pull the twist handle forward. This reveals the slider cams which engage a cross-pin which activates the in/out cable movement.|
In the photo below you will see the black plastic threaded outer cable attachment bolt on the thermostat housing and the pivot bolt at the end of the inner cable/ timing plate arm.
You will also see a spare prop shear pin
that I have electrical
taped to the plastic outer cable end.
|Here the rear end of the throttle cable is secured on top of the thermostat housing with the inner end secured at the pivot bolt.|
Midsection & Trim / Tilt : There is a black knob, located close to the transom clamps of engine. When put in one position, it locks the motor to the cross shaft, effectively locking it in that position, when the knob is turned to the opposite position, it allows the motor to freely tilt up or down. It has a sketch of a boat with the motor raised on one side of this flat knob indicating it can be raised.
This lock needs to be in the lock position if you use the reverse gear on the motor so it won't kick up. However, if you plan on using the motor for trolling in the shallows where you could drag the skeg, leave it unlocked. Or use the shallow water drive latch located on the starboard side of the lower transom bracket. This knob is made of black plastic and it it gets gunked up, or sticky AND the operator is not sure which way it needs to be moved, the thin outer part of this knob can become broken off. At this stage of the game, TS, no factory replacement is available. And the owner now does not know which way to move it, (which is usually locked into the NON-TILT POSITION). The only way to get the housing now tilted or to access the inner part of this knob shaft is to pull the transom clamp adjustment pin (#23) in the illustration below. This is the part that the lock fastens onto, so by pulling this pin out, you can now raise the motor, inspect, lubricate things, maybe even remove the knob shaft for repair.
There is a fold out carrying handle
tucked into the front of the clamping bracket. The clamp screws are 5/8"
The twist grip throttle is activated by
by a cable system that has a slow speed adjustment knob and a kill button on the outer end.
The upper and lower motor mounts are made
of rubber and are the same part. They appear to be very durable, plus easy to get to.
Midsection exploded view
Tilt Lock Bolt : The pivot bolt (#97 in the illustration above) for the tilt lock initially was threaded into the RH motor clamp bracket. However IF the motor was left in this locked up position when traveling over rough roads, the threaded stud end could break off inside the bracket. The factory either before the end of this series, made a change in this bolt, or made a new improved bolt as a replacement.
In the photo below you see the older original short bolt that is threaded into the clamp bracket. This is prone to breaking the head off at the juncture of the shoulder and the threads. The new bolt is designed to replace the old bolt, by drilling out the boss it is threaded into, and installing a nut on the outside. In drilling out this, you will need to make an accurate mark AND center punch the bracket from the outside, as it will be impossible to drill it out from the inside unless you do a lot of removing of the clamp bracket parts.
The one I did, the inner hole was very close to being centered with the outer round boss. The threads are 1/4" X 20 NC, so initially drill with a 3/16" size drill, be sure you are drilling as square with the bracket as possible. The inner threaded hole is longer than the broken off threaded bolt. Your drill will go through the aluminum bracket and then a short distance until it starts drilling into the broken threads. Hopefully you will be close, but if not, angle the drill, trying to remove what is left. Then move on to a 1/4" drill and open up that hole to accept the new bolt. On the one I repaired, the threads on the new bolt were not long enough, so I put it in my metal lathe and moved the shoulder back 1/16".
|Replacement tilt lock bolt on the bottom|
These motors have a small plastic cover that covers the upper exhaust vent on
the rear of the midsection (#80 in the above illustration). This does muffle
the motor some, but in reality it
was called a "water outlet" on the earlier models. This muffler/outlet
allows for some outlet water to mix with the exhaust gasses to cool the housing
and at the same time allows only a small amount of exhaust with some spitting
water, as an indicator of sorts, some may call it second exhaust port, however
in actuality, in these smaller engines you could say it is an idle bypass,
because at idle speeds there is not enough exhaust pressure to overcome the
under-water pressure out the larger hole near the prop.
So if you see a slight amount of blackish oil coming out of the bottom of this, it is normal.
Water Indicator : These motors have the tell tale water indicator system common with most of the later motors. Here in the photo below you see an Ell coming off the water jacket and a hose to under the head to a hole out the RH side of the lower cowling. These seem to be a bit more trouble free as related to plugging up as the outlet hose to the overboard tell tale takes off the side-plate cover near the top instead of the bottom. This helps a bit in that it is less susceptible there to less debris plugging this tube.
|Tell-tale water indicator outlet off the motor|
Water Intake :
These motors main
water supply to the water pump comes from a screened tube right behind
the prop in the exhaust outlet which was carried over from earlier
motors. Water is forced into the
screened intake to the water pump by the prop thrust. Some users
report that when running these motors in a barrel, (usually a small
one) that the prop has to be installed and usually in gear as apparently
they need to get more water pushed to the water pump by the prop to
get enough to cool when running at over an idle.
There is no stainless steel intake plate on the left side above the cavitation plate like the previous versions. Aftermarket flush kits for this motor are obsolete and rather scarce. There is really no provision currently available for a easy muff system to run this motor out of a tank. But there is hope. I think that I may be able, (by tearing mine down) to figure out a way to drill/tap/modify the lower unit near the water pump to where I may be able to utilize the later screw in flush adapters on this motor. But that is a project in itself.
Aftermarket Water Flushing Adapter Cover : These motors main water supply to the water pump comes from a screened tube right behind the prop in the exhaust outlet which utilizes the thrust from the prop to push water up to the water pump. This method of water intake does not allow the newer type of flushing muffs to be used. At Soon after these motors came out with this type a water intake system, Tempo made Flush Kits #918FAA (as seen in the photos below) for a while for these motors, but now are not currently made and are rather scarce IF THE PERSON EVEN RECOGNIZES WHAT THE ARE. Those of you who frequent garage sales may be on the lookout for these.
|Evinrude 6hp with Tempo Flush Kit in place|
This unit is 3" long not counting the hose nut, and lined with what appears to be 1/8" sticky backed foam, which provides some sealing and is held in place on the motor by a mini bungee cord.
|Tempo #918FAA front view||Tempo #918FAA rear view|
at Troll or in Tank
If you happen to have
the motor overheating at slow speeds, you might consider looking at the
water intake screen tube which is situated in the lower unit directly
behind the prop. This is placed here so that the prop thrust
pushes fresh water into this slotted screen tube. This
slotted screen could be inadvertently blocked enough that these holes
could partially block water intake at
a slow speed.
This slotted screen is made
of plastic which would be
hard to remove and save after many years, plus it is expensive to replace.
a small nail or similar tool, you should be able to carefully clean any
debris from the holes clear enough to make a difference
When using this motor in a tank, always run it in
forward gear as the water pickup tube is directly behind the prop, with the idea
the prop will help push water into the pickup tube. If the tube is partly
plugged and the motor is ran mostly in neutral, the motor may not be getting
enough cooling water and overheat.
Water Pump/Impeller : To get to the water pump, you need to drop the lower unit (gearbox), First you need to remove #5 and #56 bolts as shown in the illustrated parts photo below. This should allow the lower unit, (water pump assembly to drop down and be able to be removed from the exhaust housing. These motors utilize a different shifting system than the previous motors. It rotates instead of moving vertically as seen by the #10 & #78 bevel gears (located under the carburetor) shown in the midsection exploded views below . The upper end of the lower unit shifting rod is machined to match the #78 bevel gear coupler, which should just slide out and down when you drop the lower unit. The whole shifting rod then drops down and then out the bottom with the lower unit. This is a lot simpler to disassemble than the previous years.
Now what if it does not come off, by dropping down and away from the exhaust housing? In all probability, some previous repairman may not have greased the upper driveshaft spline an it is stuck in the lower crankshaft. This can be a problem, but most of us have relied on wedging it off, possibly by using a couple of large screwdrivers, but the plastic timber fallers wedges are ideal in that they won't mar the housings. As said above, the shifting rod just slides into a rotating mating couple up under the carburetor. If it is really seized, and you have to wedge it for a distance, The driveshaft is not really anchored in the gearbox, but again a spline. The driveshaft is secured in the water pump only by the impeller key in a slot in the driveshaft. So if all else fails, and you have to force the lower unit down far enough the impeller key will be forced up through the top of the water pump housing, (in all likelihood, ruining it), but at least you can get to things now as the driveshaft will still be seized in the powerhead, but at least the lower unit is off. You might luck out on the damage to the water pump housing and only the top seal (#55) was damaged.
Now you can rap on the
lower end of the driveshaft, trying to jar it loose, and then in a location =of
it that is protruding, use a Vise Grip pliers on this shaft and beat the
pliers down with a large hammer. If the shaft is marred because of the
pliers and you chose a location that was not critical, the marring is
inconsequential and can be filed off.
Replacing it back into the midsection housing and re-aligning it after replacing the
impeller may prove interesting. This CAN all happen without having to
remove the powerhead, however it may take a bit of jiggling to get things to
slide back together. The first part to align is the water tube, which
slides into the long upper snout of the housing. This snout is
considerably longer than most, so it helps get the tube started while you can
still see inside the midsection from below using a flashlight. The
tube's lower end is cut on a angle to help facilitate easy entry into the
grommet in the upper end of the snout.
Second the driveshaft and finally
the shifting rod. Initially I was worried about the shifting rod's
re-alignment, but that was easy. The hard part was to align the
driveshaft. It took a lot of eyeballing for the lower unit's upper mating
surface to be even with the midsection's lower mating surface. After the
driveshaft slid into the splines by slightly rotating the flywheel as you push
up, the lower unit slid up to within about 3/8" then it went into the shifting
rod gear easily. You can not see the shifting rod as it goes up inside
it's own pocket, but it must have a internal tapered area at the top because
things just slide in fine.
OMC / Bombardier #0389576 water pump
impeller $18.00 This impeller fits Evinrude and Johnson 4hp,
1980-1992; 4.5hp & 7.5hp, 1980-1983; 5hp, 1996-2005; 6hp, and 8hp from 1984 to
2005 2 stroke engines.
|Water pump impeller #0389576||Water pump kit|
Now for a confusing part. Since we are dealing with a used motor with no known repair history, we are not sure what had been previously done. I purchased the proper identified impeller from the parts manual #0389576. Upon removal of the water pump, I found the existing impeller was the right diameter but thinner in vertical dimensions. The recommended replacement was .845" thick while the existing one in this motor was .700" thick, but mine was the first year of production for this series of motors. As luck would have it the existing one appears to have recently been replaced, so I just reinstalled it. It was not clear if mine had a replacement water pump OR if I got the wrong impeller.
say to not reuse a lower water pump plate if it is scored. Well this one
had a couple of deep circular partial grooves in it. I disregarded the
smaller diameter one near where the seal ridge of the impeller rubbed. But
there was one larger wear groove out farther and near the outer edge. Not
wanting to wait for a replacement, I took it to my band-sander and using a worn
240 grit belt, sanded this stainless steel plate from all directions to
removed minute metal as evenly as possible. OH yes, you will need to dip
into water after each sanding, as it gets HOT.
Thinning this plate should not have any effect on reliability as long as it was
smooth, and this plate uses a
gasket both on top and bottom, and the pump housing bolts on top. Maybe
not recommended, but it worked.
stainless steel cup
looked in better condition so nothing was needed on it.
They have a
unitized gearcase accessible from the rear instead of the previous gearcase that
split horizontally at the prop shaft line. The prop is driven on by a
stainless steel shear pin 3/16"dia. X 1 1/4" long. There is a
prop shaft nose cap on the rear that is
retained by a cotter pin.
The new rotating shifting shaft cam (with 3
indents for gear positions) in
the lower unit, pushes a internal spring loaded rod that is in contact with the
shifting clutch dog. This spring always has tension so the clutch dog is
always pushing the dog in the forward position, but easily shifted into neutral
and reverse, but uses the spring as an assist for engaging the forward gear.
The water intake is in the exhaust tube
right behind the prop as used in the older smaller OMC engines as seen by the
screen #24 hanging down in the exploded drawing below. And it offers
no real opportunity to attach a currently made flushing attachment.
One thing they made provisions for was a recessed location in the lower unit to install a zinc anode, #47 in the exploded views below.
One thing I may warn you is that when you try to reinstall the lower drain/fill plug, is that IF the plastic washer remains in the hole, you may very easily NOT be able to start the threads straight. And this threaded hole sets at a slight angle with the outer housing when it is tightened in tight. If it looks like it is going in crooked, stop before you ruin what threads are left. If the unit is full of oil, you may be able to lay it down enough to be able to remove the plug without a lot of oil draining out. A 3/8" X 16 NC tap can be ran in VERY CAREFULLY to clean up the slightly cross-threaded threads. AGAIN, VERY CAREFULLY.
Remember that when you check/change
gear oil, it is recommended to replace the drain plug plastic washer (#0311598)
as they seem to be the most likely point of a leak. Now somewhere along
the line the factory made a change in these drain/fill plugs by eliminating the
washer and incorporating a Neoprene O-Ring as as seal. Maybe this came
about because of the paragraph above.
|Here the lower unit is in exploded view for a 1984, with the long & extra long shaft spacers are on the upper left|
To remove the lower unit on these motors there is one bolt in front that is quite visible (#5 for a short or extra long shaft, or #58 for a long shaft in the illustration above). There are also two more bolts underneath, above the prop (#56). Removing all three of these should allow the lower unit to be withdrawn from the exhaust housing and down to where you can remove it to access the water pump housing (#24).
If this does not allow the lower
unit to drop down, possibly some previous mechanic did not grease the upper
driveshaft splines and it is stuck in the crankshaft.
If this is the case, wooden
wedges driven equally around the midsection/lower unit may be your alternative.
OR, as I have found on one motor, the shifting rod flat apparently got worn
enough that it raised a burr where it entered the female coupler right below the
powerhead, creating resistance. Here all you can do is wedge the two (gearcase
and exhaust housing) apart. The simple wedge found to accomplish this is
timber fallers plastic wedges.
Propeller : The prop is a NON THRU THE HUB type. The prop has a shear pin and the plastic bullet nose is just a retainer that is held in place by the cotter-pin. These props have a rubber hub bonded to the prop along with to the bronze hub. On my prop the rubber must have gotten some corrosion between the prop and the inner hub, forcing the hub forward about 1/16". This made it very hard to get the shear pin in place while still having the brass spacer #54 shown above. I tried to press the hub rearward, but no avail as the rubber was still bonded (or stuck), so I simply chucked the prop in the lathe and removed that amount off the rear of the prop to allow the spacer to be in place and to accept the cotter pin #53.
Propellers need to be free of dings or non symmetrical shapes to be balanced so the motor will run without a lot of excess vibration. Any time you see rock dings, clean them up with a file, and try to keep all the blades as equal as possible. Slight bends can be straightened up with a small hammer against a heavy steel plate.
The prop shaft is .531 or 17/32".
why this odd dia. ? Well my guess is that since most roller bearings and seals are actually made in
metric sizes, this .531 equals 13.5mm, so the seals would be more readily
Prop specifications, all being 3 blade props. The actual size and pitch may have changed over the period of production. There were at least three different sizes, the OMC / Bombardier, 9 1/4 X 6 1/2" (0392183), 8 1/2" X 9" (#0390237) and 8" X 7" (#0778796). All will fit and function, but usually the lesser diameter and pitched props used on the 8 hp, While the larger less pitched used on the Sailmaster requiring more thrust for a heavier boat. However after 40 years it is hard telling what actually was original to any motor.
Or the aftermarket Michigan Wheel propeller, 1980 and newer Johnson 3 blade 8 1/2" X 9" 6 / 8hp #012032, at $81.99, seems to be a compromise of all the OMC props.
Shear Pin : The shear (drive) pin (#51 in the above illustration) on this model goes into the prop on the rear section and inside the plastic cap, (some older models go on the front). The size of this shear pin is 3/16" diameter X 1 1/4" long. One thing that may help in re-installing this pin or if you make your own, is to grind at least one of the ends at a slight taper.
Propeller Nut : There is no prop nut on this model, but a plastic nose cone (called a prop shaft cap, #032694), is held in place by the cap's cotter pin.
Cotter Pin : The cotter pin holding the plastic cap on is 1/8" diameter X 1 5/8" overall length.
Thrust Washer : Between the prop and this cap is a brass thrust washer #0324689, (#54 in the above illustration). This thrust washer basically takes up any slack between the prop and the shear pin.
|Rear propeller shaft cap piece #0324694||Thrust Washer #0324689|
Paint : OMC / Bombardier paint, spray can, Ivory #173744, Johnson Platinum Gray #174069 but superseded to #771246
Copyright © 2011 - 2018 LeeRoy Wisner All Rights Reserved
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Originally stated 09-20-2011 Last Updated 03-12-2018
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